UKC

With summer alpine season starting in the not too distance future, plane tickets being booked and gear shopping list written I though its time to start the obligatory boot forum post.

Last time in the Alps I didn't have the cash for new boots and crampons so wore my trusty winter boots - Scarpa Phantom Lites. These completely wrecked my feet in the warm dusty conditions and the C3 crampons that go with them were completely overkill.

I want ones that will accept a heel bail, cost around £200 max and will be good on easier alpine summer routes, Via farrata and glacial approaches. With all this in mind does anyone have any recommendations?

Looking at;

Selewa MRapace - Seem a really good, have good reviews and cost £150'ish which seems very reasonable. Also have alot of fit options with the removable 'muti' footbeds.

Trango S EVO GTX - Classic with some good bargains to be had.

Scarpa Rebel Lite GTX - Seem pretty expensive compared to other makes and are normally a bit to narrow.

Mammut Monolith GTX Men

Anymore suggestions welcome.

Thanks

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Having previously worn phantom guides with g14s on a glacier plod, I will be taking my trangos next time! I've not actually worn them in the alps before, but I have used them for a whole load of uk spring/summer/autumn walking and scrambling, and I think they would fit the bill (if they fit you!). Essentially the other boots are a variation on a theme, so I would go for the one which fit best and seems best value.

In reply to LJC:

Getting the perfect fit is always a bit of a problem, I live in Hampshire and finding a shop with a selection of different boots is impossible. I have to order online and if the fits baddy send them back. Not had too many problems doing this in the past but it can get expensive.

Trangos do seem a good bet - I think la sportive normally have the wider a fit i need as well.

Thanks

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Just bought a pair of the Scarpa Rebel Lites this morning. Scarpas usually fit me really well and it's such a personal thing, but they seem to be a superb balance of weight and capability. Under 1300g!! And I got them for only £200 as well. Your usage is just what I envisage for them in addition to Scottish scrambling/Cuiilin ridge type stuff. Sorry I can't give a review on performance.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

I have trango alp gtx, and they would be perfect for what you are after.

But I have thin feet and tried la sportiva after being told they made a narrow boot...

Not sure if this will fit your 'wider'.

In reply to maxsmith:

I'm not convinced by this sportiva are narrower argument... My sportiva trangos are 41 and my scarpa phantoms are 43. It is comparing apples and oranges though.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

More votes for trangos then..

Anyone got a pair of Salewa Rapace

In reply to The_flying_climber:
I have a new pair of the Scarpa Charmoz which are great. Fit seems about average, I've got my usual size. They're my only pair of boots now, a do-it-all pair used for everything from summer walking and scrambling through to easy winter climbing.

In reply to LJC:
Yes, I think there is a confusion between narrow feet and low volume feet. La sportiva cater well for the latter from my experience.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Anyone know what the difference is between the La Sportiva 'Trango Alp GTX' and 'Trango S Evo' is?

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Do you run warm and sweaty? If so, try Scarpa mantas. I've used them in the Alps and Scotland and they helped to air my feet a bit better, thus reducing the problem of blisters.
Jeremy

In reply to The_flying_climber:
I've been pleasantly surprised with the Scarpa Rebel Lites so far. Bought them with similar objectives in mind to yourself. Also thinking of UK mountain days where a more "technical" fitting boot may be a benefit. I have a wider forefoot, but having several pairs of Scarpas already, decided to try the Rebel Lite. Only tested on a few Scottish winter days so far. Although they have less insulation, a slightly thinner sock avoided restricting the circulation in my feet and found them to be comfortable and usable in the conditions. The tongue appears to be neoprene, so not sure how waterproof they would be over long wet days.
I used them with Grivel G10s, but have purchased a pair of flexi bars to fit to my Airtech crampons with the heel clip. Planning to try these over the next few weeks. Boot has a bit of flex but feels more than stiff enough for crampon use.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Asolo Peak is one to consider. Very light, but reasonably stiff and warm B2 boot. It has a very similar fit to the La Sportiva offerings.

In reply to The_flying_climber:
The Trango Alp GTX is a stiffer,a bit heavier and also has a higher
volume forefoot than the Trango S evo.

In reply to peter myers:

And a different lug pattern on the sole too.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

I have some old style Charmoz and am thinking of getting them resoled,but in the meantime I bought some Rebel Lites in a sale.
The problem with all of these type of boots generally is that they are excellent for rock climbing,but they achieve that by having a less robust sole/tread(hence the need to resole the Charmoz).So they do not last as long as more conventional boots.Consequently I am wary of using the new boots just for going out for a pad in Scotland.I think that they will lose their sharpness quicker than the Charmoz.
There may still be some old style Charmoz in the sales,so you could search for them.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Summer alpine ?? if you intend climbing Mont Blanc a warmer boot may be necessary. When you are in the lift look at what the majority of climbers are wearing...La Sportiva Nepals are definitely the most popular, and with good reason.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Try as many on as possible - almost certainly the best fit will be the ones you'll have to buy, rather than the best reviewed/best specified etc.

I tried on loads of boots - even buying La Sportiva Evos and then having to sell them at a loss - but only Mammut Monoloths would fit me. They're pretty unfashionable but they're light, cheap and do everything I need - from Scottish winter to summer Alps.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/the-north-face-mens-verto-s4k-gtx-boot-31110...

i got these to do the Matterhorn last year and they were perfect. the upper is less rigid that on other boots i tried on so much comfier.

In reply to The_flying_climber:

Hi, I have a pair of the Salewa Rapace. I really like them. I have used them mainly for long mountain routes up to V Diff which I think they are best suited for. They are pretty light and with quite a grippy sole. I wore them once in winter but they weren't really warm enough in soft wet snow, but that was with quite a thin sock. I havent tried them with crampons but they should fit ok. They have a ledge at the heal for the clip but arn't really stiff so wouldn't want to spend all day front pointing in them. I think they would be fine for glacial approaches to rock routes in the Alps. I have also done quite a few Via Ferrattas in them.

Only negative thing was one of the lace hooks fell off. I was going to return them as the warranty was for two years but in the end just got them fixed in a cobblers.

Dave