In reply to shepofthesheeps:
Dave Macleod - and it's not a difficult choice for me.
1) He is an astounding all rounder - on that alone there's no-one in the UK to compare with him.
2) Amongst elite climbers he is easily the most intelligent and perceptive of speakers and writers about the experience of climbing.
3) He has an excellent command of the technical pursuit of climbing, in terms of training and tactics, and the willingness and ability to share it.
4) The combination of 2) and 3) makes him completely unique, and he is uniquely insightful about the interface between preparation and performance.
5) The strength of his will is inspiring - both in terms of pushing himself, and in steering his own course through ethical waters.
6) Given the above it is remarkable that he manages also to be modest, nurturing and level-headed.
He only misses out on perfection by failing to express himself like a poet.