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A couple of weeks ago we reported that Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz had teamed up to climb a mega new route. We guessed that it was the huge cave of Majlis al Jinn in Oman. Were we right?Details were scarce, and the first video that was released was just a teaser, but now here's the full video series.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68796
In reply to UKC News:
Great, good to see Sharma continues to try new styles.
As for the sponsorship etc, I guess someone's got to pay for it. The photography is top drawer, wouldn't be so good shot on a nauseating headcam and edited with a cracked version of final cut now would it...
Great, good to see Sharma continues to try new styles.
As for the sponsorship etc, I guess someone's got to pay for it. The photography is top drawer, wouldn't be so good shot on a nauseating headcam and edited with a cracked version of final cut now would it...
In reply to UKC News:
In the end, the friendship - between two such intriguing personalities - seemed to matter more than the route.
Mick
In the end, the friendship - between two such intriguing personalities - seemed to matter more than the route.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
If one were to be a tiny bit cynical (not that I am of course) one might think that the friendship thing was also sanitised and stage managed.
> In the end, the friendship - between two such intriguing personalities - seemed to matter more than the route.
If one were to be a tiny bit cynical (not that I am of course) one might think that the friendship thing was also sanitised and stage managed.
1
In reply to alooker:
No. Headcam stuff is always awful. Something in between just a little bit endearingly amateurish might have been ideal.
> The photography is top drawer, wouldn't be so good shot on a nauseating headcam and edited with a cracked version of final cut now would it...
No. Headcam stuff is always awful. Something in between just a little bit endearingly amateurish might have been ideal.
Post edited at 21:04
In reply to Robert Durran:
I guess there's a commercial aspect, a climbing aspect and a relationship aspect. There's certainly a sense of the commercial aspect shadowing the project and thereby affecting the filming.
But Glowacz has such an interesting face. Life is written in it. There seems to me a lot of pain and suffering in that face - and huge determination. I can't see that he's in it just for the money. There's a sense that he also cares deeply about his journey and who he shares it with.
Agree 'Something in between just a little bit endearingly amateurish might have been ideal' - for us lot anyway. But I guess climbers weren't the target audience - not enough of us!
Mick
I guess there's a commercial aspect, a climbing aspect and a relationship aspect. There's certainly a sense of the commercial aspect shadowing the project and thereby affecting the filming.
But Glowacz has such an interesting face. Life is written in it. There seems to me a lot of pain and suffering in that face - and huge determination. I can't see that he's in it just for the money. There's a sense that he also cares deeply about his journey and who he shares it with.
Agree 'Something in between just a little bit endearingly amateurish might have been ideal' - for us lot anyway. But I guess climbers weren't the target audience - not enough of us!
Mick
Post edited at 22:57
In reply to Mick Ward:
Don't get me wrong. I hold them both in the highest regard; I just wonder whether their sponsors got them to ham up the partnership thing just a little.
> But Glowacz has such an interesting face. Life is written in it. I can't see that he's in it just for the money. There's a sense that he also cares deeply about his journey and who he shares it with.
Don't get me wrong. I hold them both in the highest regard; I just wonder whether their sponsors got them to ham up the partnership thing just a little.
Post edited at 23:21
In reply to Robert Durran:
It's such a tricky one, isn't it? Many top climbers are quite private people who just... want to go climbing! Equally they feel a duty to 'perform' in front of the camera. What do you do? What do you say? How much of yourself do you share?
I suppose at least today people are generally more relaxed in front of a camera. You felt sorry for Big Ron 35 years ago. What was he going to say? "Aye, let's have a brew." "Come on arms, do your stuff..." (That would never have worked in Yorkshire!)
Although Glowacz seems to have been a sponsor also, I'm sure the climbing role would have been stronger.
The more that climbing films resemble folk just out with their mates, enjoying the craic, the more I like it. But the camera seems necessarily intrusive and the process of editing necessarily selective.
I'm sure these musings seem hopelessly naïve to those who comprehend the world of film!
Mick
It's such a tricky one, isn't it? Many top climbers are quite private people who just... want to go climbing! Equally they feel a duty to 'perform' in front of the camera. What do you do? What do you say? How much of yourself do you share?
I suppose at least today people are generally more relaxed in front of a camera. You felt sorry for Big Ron 35 years ago. What was he going to say? "Aye, let's have a brew." "Come on arms, do your stuff..." (That would never have worked in Yorkshire!)
Although Glowacz seems to have been a sponsor also, I'm sure the climbing role would have been stronger.
The more that climbing films resemble folk just out with their mates, enjoying the craic, the more I like it. But the camera seems necessarily intrusive and the process of editing necessarily selective.
I'm sure these musings seem hopelessly naïve to those who comprehend the world of film!
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
Best two videos on here; people just climbing (well!) for it's own sake and just happens someone films them (or seems like it):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1103
http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=838
> The more that climbing films resemble folk just out with their mates, enjoying the craic, the more I like it. But the camera seems necessarily intrusive and the process of editing necessarily selective.
Best two videos on here; people just climbing (well!) for it's own sake and just happens someone films them (or seems like it):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1103
http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=838
In reply to Robert Durran:
Thanks very much indeed. Had seen the first a couple of times (but wouldn't mind seeing it again - inspirational). Hadn't seen the second - so, something nice to look forward to.
Thanks again,
mick
Thanks very much indeed. Had seen the first a couple of times (but wouldn't mind seeing it again - inspirational). Hadn't seen the second - so, something nice to look forward to.
Thanks again,
mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
This is another one that bears repeat viewing - http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1892 .
This is another one that bears repeat viewing - http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1892 .
In reply to Robert Durran:
The "Underdeveloped" film is excellent in that regard, excellent climbing footage and it all comes across as very natural.
The "Underdeveloped" film is excellent in that regard, excellent climbing footage and it all comes across as very natural.
In reply to Mick Ward:
Absolutely, red bull is marketed at people who like the idea of rock climbing.
I went to a red bull sponsored demo / free coaching session with Will Gadd last year, sponsored by RB. Talk about sucking the devil's c@&k, the cameras were there and he knew which side his bread was buttered and did plenty of clowning around and sipping RB with the over tanned reps before the main event, it was cringeworthy. The reps then attempted to hand out free RB to us, a group of backcountry skiers and climbers, not a single can got drunk. The reps, actually moonlighting students, were taken aback, they hadn't quite figured out that we weren't the target audience, we just wanted some free coaching.
> Agree 'Something in between just a little bit endearingly amateurish might have been ideal' - for us lot anyway. But I guess climbers weren't the target audience - not enough of us!
Absolutely, red bull is marketed at people who like the idea of rock climbing.
I went to a red bull sponsored demo / free coaching session with Will Gadd last year, sponsored by RB. Talk about sucking the devil's c@&k, the cameras were there and he knew which side his bread was buttered and did plenty of clowning around and sipping RB with the over tanned reps before the main event, it was cringeworthy. The reps then attempted to hand out free RB to us, a group of backcountry skiers and climbers, not a single can got drunk. The reps, actually moonlighting students, were taken aback, they hadn't quite figured out that we weren't the target audience, we just wanted some free coaching.
Post edited at 15:41
In reply to Jonny2vests:
Well, there's no such thing as a free coach!
> we just wanted some free coaching.
Well, there's no such thing as a free coach!
In reply to UKC News:
http://www.khaleejtimes.com/DisplayArticleNew.asp?section=citytimes&xfi...
The last visit from redbull didn't sit to well with local authorities!
The climbing was cool and the guys are great but...
http://www.khaleejtimes.com/DisplayArticleNew.asp?section=citytimes&xfi...
The last visit from redbull didn't sit to well with local authorities!
The climbing was cool and the guys are great but...
In reply to larpy:
To be fair, trying to get a base jumping permit in Oman would take 5-10 years, if ever, unless you are best buddies with the sultan. Leaving shit around in the cave is ridiculous though. Route looks pretty good, video is a bit shit though.
To be fair, trying to get a base jumping permit in Oman would take 5-10 years, if ever, unless you are best buddies with the sultan. Leaving shit around in the cave is ridiculous though. Route looks pretty good, video is a bit shit though.
In reply to UKC News:
It's funny to see all this comments. I wonder how many of you would turn down an offer to be paid to go and explore an unclimbed cave in Oman, rather than sitting in an office on a monday morning watching these videos. If all it takes is sipping a can of the stuff, getting a bit of armchair slating from UKC and wearing a funny helmet, I'll freaking do it as well, doesn't sound like such a bad deal to me I much rather Redbull spend the dollars supporting Will Gadd, Sharma, Stefan, David Lama or Sasha that some petrol head doing some crazy stunt in USA or some dood jumping off from space, or the CEO buying a private island in the caribeean, if you get my vibe. The world goes around, money goes around.. we all need to do a job to survive.
It's funny to see all this comments. I wonder how many of you would turn down an offer to be paid to go and explore an unclimbed cave in Oman, rather than sitting in an office on a monday morning watching these videos. If all it takes is sipping a can of the stuff, getting a bit of armchair slating from UKC and wearing a funny helmet, I'll freaking do it as well, doesn't sound like such a bad deal to me I much rather Redbull spend the dollars supporting Will Gadd, Sharma, Stefan, David Lama or Sasha that some petrol head doing some crazy stunt in USA or some dood jumping off from space, or the CEO buying a private island in the caribeean, if you get my vibe. The world goes around, money goes around.. we all need to do a job to survive.
In reply to Ramon Marin:
Very few probably, but that's hardly the point.
I'd much rather they stuck to that kind of stuff.
> It's funny to see all this comments. I wonder how many of you would turn down an offer to be paid to go and explore an unclimbed cave in Oman, rather than sitting in an office on a monday morning watching these videos.
Very few probably, but that's hardly the point.
> I much rather Redbull spend the dollars supporting Will Gadd, Sharma, Stefan, David Lama or Sasha that some petrol head doing some crazy stunt in USA or some dood jumping off from space.
I'd much rather they stuck to that kind of stuff.
In reply to UKC News:
I would have liked to have learned more about how they got permission to do this climb. I went to this cave only 4 years ago, and back then (as far as I know), no-one had been inside, because the locals didn't want anyone to. Since then, a few people went inside (naughtily, including a mate of mine!) and then it was base-jumped by Leo and co. The Omanis are obviously a lot warmer to the idea of people going inside now. It would have been interesting to know who they sought permission from, and what the Omanis had to say about it.
I would have liked to have learned more about how they got permission to do this climb. I went to this cave only 4 years ago, and back then (as far as I know), no-one had been inside, because the locals didn't want anyone to. Since then, a few people went inside (naughtily, including a mate of mine!) and then it was base-jumped by Leo and co. The Omanis are obviously a lot warmer to the idea of people going inside now. It would have been interesting to know who they sought permission from, and what the Omanis had to say about it.
In reply to UKC News:
I wrote an article last year about energy drinks and their role within the world of parkour. I think the same applies to climbing:
http://www.parkourgenerations.com/blog/spectacle-and-spirit-parkour-needs-b...
Parkour might be the first sport to reject Red Bull. It would be amazing if climbing could do the same.
I wrote an article last year about energy drinks and their role within the world of parkour. I think the same applies to climbing:
http://www.parkourgenerations.com/blog/spectacle-and-spirit-parkour-needs-b...
Parkour might be the first sport to reject Red Bull. It would be amazing if climbing could do the same.
In reply to UKC News:
If anyone in the Bath/Bristol area wants a similar but smaller project the Cathedral Shaft in Box Stone Mines is still waiting for an ascent.I have abseiled it and it looks worth doing.
If anyone in the Bath/Bristol area wants a similar but smaller project the Cathedral Shaft in Box Stone Mines is still waiting for an ascent.I have abseiled it and it looks worth doing.
In reply to Ramon Marin:
That's funny because I'd much rather Redbull stayed well away from climbing and stuck with the stunts and the Caribbean Islands.
> I much rather Redbull spend the dollars supporting Will Gadd, Sharma, Stefan, David Lama or Sasha
That's funny because I'd much rather Redbull stayed well away from climbing and stuck with the stunts and the Caribbean Islands.
Post edited at 19:09
In reply to Kiell:
That's a really interesting article. Thank you for putting it on here.
'There's a part of me that sees parkour and freerunning as two distinct things; the first is a global community that trains not for the camera or a social media presence, but for itself.'
That's certainly how I feel about climbing. It's nice for people to share stuff, via social media, but you're climbing because you love it.
Mick
That's a really interesting article. Thank you for putting it on here.
'There's a part of me that sees parkour and freerunning as two distinct things; the first is a global community that trains not for the camera or a social media presence, but for itself.'
That's certainly how I feel about climbing. It's nice for people to share stuff, via social media, but you're climbing because you love it.
Mick
In reply to Andy S:
I can tell you this, they had to jump through a lot of hoops! It took them months to get the permits from people that had no idea what they were talking about. Thats quite the accomplishment, trust me I know all about it! (not that i was involved with this climb).
It was not closed because "locals" didn't want people in the cave. It was closed because the Oman government felt that it was being abused and it was. See above article.
It is still possible to get a permit to go into the cave but it's very difficult to get now a days. I went into the cave back when it was open and even back then they were talking about putting an elevator in the cave!!
I think the climbing was cool and hats off to them, it's impressive! As far as redbull is concerned at least they are sponsoring climbers, I'm happy with that.
I can tell you this, they had to jump through a lot of hoops! It took them months to get the permits from people that had no idea what they were talking about. Thats quite the accomplishment, trust me I know all about it! (not that i was involved with this climb).
It was not closed because "locals" didn't want people in the cave. It was closed because the Oman government felt that it was being abused and it was. See above article.
It is still possible to get a permit to go into the cave but it's very difficult to get now a days. I went into the cave back when it was open and even back then they were talking about putting an elevator in the cave!!
I think the climbing was cool and hats off to them, it's impressive! As far as redbull is concerned at least they are sponsoring climbers, I'm happy with that.
In reply to Kiell:
That is an excellent article, thanks for posting it up.
"The spectacle is on sale. The spirit we keep for ourselves." I will probably steal that )
> Parkour might be the first sport to reject Red Bull. It would be amazing if climbing could do the same.
That is an excellent article, thanks for posting it up.
"The spectacle is on sale. The spirit we keep for ourselves." I will probably steal that )
In reply to Ramon Marin:
I know people who would, Ramon, for various reasons. But more generally...
The problem with some big name sponsors like Red Bull, at least in climbing - and not taking into consideration the health/fitness un-benefits etc of the product - is that when *other* people go to potential sponsors for *other* types of climbing projects the companies, media and public have an idea of 'climbing' based on a Red Bull thing they've seen and if your project does not match with that they feel it is somehow lacking.
Will it be EXCITING?
Will you all have helmet cams?
Will you be filmed from a helicopter?
Is the talent hot?
Will it be shot in HD?
No? Sorry.
Much of the media and many marketing depts lack imagination, let alone knowledge of climbing, so they just go on what has come before, what has proven 'popular' and RB has the resources to make sure their projects become popular. Many sponsors will go for a ride and co-sponsor something popular but shy away from being the main sponsor of something more obscure. RB sets the bar quite high, which is good in some ways, but it can also repress others in the field, who can not match the budget, marketing and distribution of RB or similar. So they opt out altogether.
It's not dissimilar to the Everest Effect, where it distorts the wider field from which it came, despite having little to do with it anymore. The other day I was emailing with a colleague who deals with dozens of 'adventurers' every year engaged in big-name goals. He, and his company, are amazed year after year that relative novices get sponsor money to do the same things in the same commercialised style again and again, while others wanting to do genuinely adventurous, exploratory new things get knocked back by sponsors because the goal has no brand recognition, is unknown and therefore unmarketable.
I understand the commercial imperatives, nobody has a 'right' to be sponsored just because they're good or innovative. Its a commercial relationship and thus it needs to be commercially viable. Many of the best adventures are not. So those of us doing other things just need to work harder and smarter to get commercial support for them if we need it, or just go get a second job, work and save. I get that.
Getting sponsorship is never easy and I don't necessarily begrudge Gadd, Lama etc doing what they can, but we should know if we go down such paths, that it is not without some cost beyond ourselves.
Aside from all that it's a nicely shot series of videos, the guys really are great climbers and it's worth remembering that Sharma himself not so long ago knocked back a lucrative sponsorship from a major sports company, for his own reasons.
> It's funny to see all this comments. I wonder how many of you would turn down an offer to be paid to go and explore an unclimbed cave in Oman…
I know people who would, Ramon, for various reasons. But more generally...
The problem with some big name sponsors like Red Bull, at least in climbing - and not taking into consideration the health/fitness un-benefits etc of the product - is that when *other* people go to potential sponsors for *other* types of climbing projects the companies, media and public have an idea of 'climbing' based on a Red Bull thing they've seen and if your project does not match with that they feel it is somehow lacking.
Will it be EXCITING?
Will you all have helmet cams?
Will you be filmed from a helicopter?
Is the talent hot?
Will it be shot in HD?
No? Sorry.
Much of the media and many marketing depts lack imagination, let alone knowledge of climbing, so they just go on what has come before, what has proven 'popular' and RB has the resources to make sure their projects become popular. Many sponsors will go for a ride and co-sponsor something popular but shy away from being the main sponsor of something more obscure. RB sets the bar quite high, which is good in some ways, but it can also repress others in the field, who can not match the budget, marketing and distribution of RB or similar. So they opt out altogether.
It's not dissimilar to the Everest Effect, where it distorts the wider field from which it came, despite having little to do with it anymore. The other day I was emailing with a colleague who deals with dozens of 'adventurers' every year engaged in big-name goals. He, and his company, are amazed year after year that relative novices get sponsor money to do the same things in the same commercialised style again and again, while others wanting to do genuinely adventurous, exploratory new things get knocked back by sponsors because the goal has no brand recognition, is unknown and therefore unmarketable.
I understand the commercial imperatives, nobody has a 'right' to be sponsored just because they're good or innovative. Its a commercial relationship and thus it needs to be commercially viable. Many of the best adventures are not. So those of us doing other things just need to work harder and smarter to get commercial support for them if we need it, or just go get a second job, work and save. I get that.
Getting sponsorship is never easy and I don't necessarily begrudge Gadd, Lama etc doing what they can, but we should know if we go down such paths, that it is not without some cost beyond ourselves.
Aside from all that it's a nicely shot series of videos, the guys really are great climbers and it's worth remembering that Sharma himself not so long ago knocked back a lucrative sponsorship from a major sports company, for his own reasons.
Post edited at 07:17
I thought the video was pretty poor. The project looks great but 4x3min videos? only one 3 min video with the actual climb in?
Loads of spraying about how great everything is but very little information or footage of the climb. It was an opportunity for a fantastic video that's been squashed into a Red Bull advert.
Loads of spraying about how great everything is but very little information or footage of the climb. It was an opportunity for a fantastic video that's been squashed into a Red Bull advert.
In reply to Double Knee Bar:
I agree. It's almost unbelievable that this is all they've produced after such a major project. Everything SURROUNDING the climb would be very interesting. Surely this isn't all we're going to see?!
I agree. It's almost unbelievable that this is all they've produced after such a major project. Everything SURROUNDING the climb would be very interesting. Surely this isn't all we're going to see?!
In reply to UKC News:
Found the video pretty interesting. I am assuming there is a longer film coming where we actually see more climbing though?
As a side note on Redbull, they have also successfully infilatrated the world of underground dance music with their Redbull music acadamy seminars and events. I guess it is good that some of the artists are getting paid but it all seems totally souless.
Found the video pretty interesting. I am assuming there is a longer film coming where we actually see more climbing though?
As a side note on Redbull, they have also successfully infilatrated the world of underground dance music with their Redbull music acadamy seminars and events. I guess it is good that some of the artists are getting paid but it all seems totally souless.
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