UKC

Just picked up a replacement ME Tupilak jacket for an older version that Gore said was faulty.
I got a real bargain with my old version and was very happy when being told i was getting what ive been told a 2014/15 model. Snow and Rock said they dont even sell it yet.

However the fit is slightly different (arm length seems longer and hood bigger) so im unsure whether to keep it or sell it.

Plus a few posts ive read people have said if its not ice climbing your using it for then forget it.

I never intended using the old model for ice climbing, but it was too good a bargain to turn down.

So im interested in peoples opinion. I will be using the jacket more for hillwalking in all weathers. My last model was pretty much bulletproof one day on Snowdon. Rain from all angles and for keeping me dry i was impressed. But that was a 4 year old version.Surely the new version should be as good.

No idea what i would get for the jacket, that still includes tags and had only been tried on in the shop and retails at £330.

And then theres the question of what jacket i would get with the money from the Tupilak if i sold it.

Is the Tupilak better suited as an ice climbing jacket or just as good for torrential downpours, snow, hailstones walking in the hills.

In reply to reecesanford:

I have a Tupliak and I'm not ice climbing (at least yet!)

If you like the jacket, it fits well, and protects you from the elements you need it to, does it matter what other people think?

In reply to reecesanford:

Agree with the above poster.

If it fits and you like it then keep it.

It is designed as a high end climbing jkt but that couldn't stop you from wearing it to the pub.

It'll be a bomproof walking jkt with some additional features which you won't notice the benefit of, but they certainly shouldn't be drawbacks.

In reply to reecesanford:
I bought mine for ice climbing and have used it for everything but (ice being a bit scarce this year). Superb for rock climbing in the wind and wet, great rain protection on a mountain hike. Why restrict its use just to winter? I really rate mine.

In reply to reecesanford:

cheers guys.
the old version was abit too snug around the waist. i thought if the new version fitted there than it would be great.

tried it on twice in the shop and my 1st impression was the arm length is abit too much and the hood way too big.

since getting it home ive managed to get the hood to fit well, the arm length i think i will persevere with. if the arms were an inch and a half shorter it would be great.

ive tried on so many jackets that just dont fit for numerous reasons. the only one thats fitted perfectly was a haglofs astral II. Not as high spec as the Tupilak though. And if the higher spec haglofs fitted i would then be stumping up a fair few quid more.

i guess if the old version Tupilak kept me dry in the worst weather ive seen on Snowdon then the new version should be good enough.

In reply to reecesanford:

sell it and buy a Morpheus - was going to buy the Tupilak, but the Morpheus ticked more boxes and strangely, I found the pockets in a better position when wearing a harness. (and the storm flap over the central zip is stunning and no cursed pit zips to deal with). Both jackets have the Alpine cut, which means slightly longer arms, narrower, more athletic, fit and are both HC.

In reply to Bluebird:

Not sure what the latest incarnation of the Morpheus is like but I don't really rate the old one particularly highly, although the AW14 jackets from ME look to be of a much better standard. Especially the Lhotse, if only I could bring myself to spend that much in one go.

For the price I paid for the Morpheus I'm happy enough, the pro-shell fabric is f*cking amazing and totally bompproof after years of use but the build quality is poor. The fit is gigantic, bellowing sleeves, small hood and large, barely tapered waist (this is in the small, I take a Med in Rab and other "athletic" cut brands). The draw cords to tighten it up are all loose and pull through easily unless you tie them, the volume reducers on the hood have snapped off on mine quite quickly (and a friends in the same place).

Like I said, the newer range of higher end jackets from ME are amazing, but if you're going for a morpheus have a good look at it first.

In reply to reecesanford:

I tried on the Tupilak, absolutely loved the durability, fit and the longer sleeves, which in itself was almost enough to make me want one. But I just could not get over how utterly shit the cuff closure design was, which felt very un-natural and chunky.

As for it being a purely ice climbing jacket, I still think it's more intended for the Scottish winter scene, as an ice climber (and pretty much that's the only climbing I now do), I don't understand why people climb in hardshells, even when standing under late season icicle showers, soft-shell is still plenty good enough.

In reply to reecesanford: having tried quite a few of the new Alpine cut jackets from ME on before buying the Tupilak I would say they all fit the same now, I tried the Tupilak, Lhoste and Sentinel. The Tupilak only has Napoleon style pockets so no where to stuff your hand whilst hill walking, if you can live with that, keep it.

In reply to GrendeI:

Because every time I've tried to go ice climbing this winter it's pissed down with rain. You have been to Scotland, have you?

In reply to reecesanford:

I use mine for everything. Ice climbing, bit of hill walking, Scottish winter. Quality jacket.

In reply to BnB:

I think that's 'gredels' point, it's designed for gnarly Scottish winter rather than euro ice where softshell excels.

In reply to Cameron94:


I think you have an overly cosy view of "euro ice". On anything less than vertical, generally but by no means always, you don't have stuff dripping on you, but as soon as you get into weirder ice formations where there is stuff overhead, it can be on warmer days quite incredibly wet.

I used Buffalo gear for four winters in Scotland and don't remember ever thinking "I wish I had a goretex". But stand under a shower of freezing water peeing down on you from icicles above and soon you want nothing but full goretex! I find thighs are particularly vulnerable - as soon as you bend your knees before standing up on your crampons, the thigh is a big target for dripping water and it will go straight through most softshell trousers, soaking you to the skin in seconds.

In reply to TobyA:

I don't believe you Toby, it always looks sunny in photos for Haglofs gear.

I was primarily meaning roadside ice of the single pitch variety.

I'll admit there's more to euro ice than I give credit to.

In reply to BnB:

You have completely miss quoted me and no, would never go to such a place

See my previous... 'As for it being a purely ice climbing jacket, I still think it's more intended for the Scottish winter scene'

We continental European climbers don't understand this concept of rain

In reply to TobyA:

Yes this winter has been utterly dire this side, though not as wet. A couple of flurries of snow every now and again but for the most part bone dry and warm :/

In reply to TobyA:
I look forward to that review, Toby. I tried on a Patagonia mixed guide hoody this weekend which seems to be following exactly the same idea.

One question that came to me when I saw the spec online for the Alpha Comp was the (to me) strange decision to make it so lightweight. Great for summer perhaps but how well will the plain non-Pro Goretex stand up to the rigours of ice climbing? My son's Goretex active shell has been shredded by the Cuillin!!

Pity they didn't send you the pant. Goretex thighs and softshell lower sounds like a great compromise for winter.

In reply to BnB:

I think that's what my mate is wearing in the photo I linked above. We talked about it a fair bit this winter in comparison to the Arcteryx one - the positioning of the hard shell sections seems more illogical in the Patagonia - at least in the version Henkka has.


Yes, although to be honest, I've been perfectly happy wearing the Jöttnar Vanir for everything this winter. They seem breathable enough for me, even when getting a bit sweaty.

In reply to TobyA:

Wait until you're ten years older and see if you still feel the same way...

I tried to get hold of some Patagonia Knifeblade trous but no luck. They look the bomb for ice.

In reply to reecesanford:

i have the ME tupilak zip returning it when i get the chance getting the arcteryx alpha fl

In reply to sebflynn:


i screwed up there :P My ME tupilak jackets zip broke one of the teeth chipped and now lets in water i will instead be going for the arcteryx alpha FL instead.
As far as the jacket goes fantastic hood, great cuffs, huge chest pockets are awesome, pointless double zip and snapper and a bit to heavy my my uses. hope this helps.

In reply to reecesanford:

I went into manchester city centre on sunday to try a few different jackets on.
Seems all Mountain Equipment jackets have the same long arm issue for me.

Do any companies supply information on the internet regarding sizes like arm length for their clothing??