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Bike frame too small and suggested remedies?

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 ksjs 09 Apr 2014
I was very lucky to be gifted a road bike recently. It is a used (but in very good condition) Specialised Allez Elite. Trouble is I think it is too small.

I have based this on Zinn's (a comprehensive bike maintenance book) bike fitting information (website with fitting calculator here: http://www.zinncycles.com/ncalroad-ulltimarev.html) and charts e.g. that provided by Evan's Cycles (http://www.evanscycles.com/help/bike-sizing#road). Respectively these suggest a frame size of 54 and 55 so fairly consistent (I'm 5' 8" with an inseam of 32.5").

The frame size I've inherited is 50. This isn't a theoretical problem only: on the few rides I've had I've been aware of my knees contacting elbows and generally feeling a bit bunched. I've also experienced some knee pain but this may be a function of the cleats being set up wrongly or simply not having ridden for a year and then going out and doing 40 miles.

I've had a look at online videos showing how to set up seat height, seat fore and aft, handlebar position and while I can play around with these I am wondering is the bike simply too small. I'm pretty sure I can't avoid knees and elbows occupying the same space but is this actually an issue?

If I can adjust things such that I have the 'correct' leg bend with an extended leg and my knee is over the pedal when crank arms are parallel to the ground is this good enough? What options do different length stems, seat posts and crank arms offer?

By the way I'm (or rather would be) an occasional rider, maybe out 1-3 times a week during better weather typically riding 20 - 40 miles.

I'd be grateful for any thoughts or suggestions on what's best here. Thanks.
 Bob 09 Apr 2014
In reply to ksjs:

I'm 5 10 1/2" and have a 56.5cm frame also specialized.

Quick check is to sit on the bike with your hand on top of the hoods. Look down towards the axle of the front wheel. It should be hidden by the flat part of the handlebars. if you can see it in front of the handlebars, the bike is too small, behind it's too big. Even on a correctly sized bike your knees will be close to touching especially when on the drops.

If the fit's close then changing the stem is the easiest option but it can alter the steering if you make too big a change.

Crank length is almost a matter of personal preference - I can't say I've noticed any difference between 170mm, 172.5 & 175 - you have to adjust the saddle slightly to compensate but other than that ...
 Gav M 09 Apr 2014
In reply to ksjs:

If you decide it's too small you should get a bigger frame second hand, swap your components over and punt the old frame. A wrong-sized bike will take the pleasure out of riding.

I recently did this the other way (moving to a smaller frame). Paid the bike shop 13 quid to swap the headset and got the rest done over an afternoon.

OP ksjs 10 Apr 2014
In reply to Bob: Thanks for that - the hub is hidden when I look down with hands on hoods so that sounds good.
OP ksjs 10 Apr 2014
In reply to Gav M: If I decide the bike is too small I think I may return it - feels more appropriate than 'butchering' it.
 Guy 10 Apr 2014
In reply to ksjs:

I'm 5'4 and ride a 50cm frame. There are adjustments you can make but you will be fudging it really. Put as many spacers under the stem as possible. Get a longer stem to stretch you out a bit. Fit a seat post with slightly more setback. The problem with most of these is that you are taking the contact points out towards the axles which inherently makes the bike less stable. More set back on the seat post can also mean more pressure on your knee.
OP ksjs 10 Apr 2014
In reply to Guy: For what it's worth I do feel reasonably stretched in terms of reach, I think I'd struggle with any more. As for seat position I find myself sitting forward on the saddle which means putting it back any farther isn't an option. I have a notion I have relatively long legs for a shortish torso.
 Guy 10 Apr 2014
In reply to ksjs:

Is that stretch coming because your bars are so low compared to the saddle? Where do you feel the stretch? Lower back? If you have the max number of spacers under the stem then the next cheap option is to flip the stem so that it angles up rather than down.

Sounds like you would be better off with a slightly larger frame but with a taller head tube.
 LastBoyScout 10 Apr 2014
In reply to ksjs:

I'm about your height and inside leg (you've got proportionately longer legs even than me, though) and I ride a 54cm Trek, which is actually a bit long for me - it has a short stem and the saddle is forward to make it fit.

I got measured on Friday and I've ordered a frame by another brand which is a 50cm but, on paper, is a perfect fit. What's important is the effective top tube length, not the actual seat tube length.

Are you riding on the drops or the hoods when your knees hit your elbows?
OP ksjs 10 Apr 2014
In reply to Guy: I'd estimate that the centre point of the horizontal part of the handlebars (where they pass through the stem) is 5-10 cm lower than the high point (rear) of the saddle.

I feel stretch in my arms. I am often tempted to sit forward (on the narrow part) of the seat.

I don't know what the maximum number of spacers possible is on the setup
OP ksjs 10 Apr 2014
In reply to LastBoyScout: Interesting! Just gone out and done a brief test, the results are:

1. When on the horizontal part of the bars the outside of my knees comes into contact with the inside of my forearms (I am contacting the arms in front of the elbows).

2. On the hoods I am fine, my arms are almost locked straight and higher so there is no contact.

3. In the drops again I am OK as my arms are set wider though I am aware of a need to keep my arms out (if I didn't there would be contact with elbows).

What is the effective top tube length, what does it need to be?
 Alun 10 Apr 2014
In reply to ksjs:

Hi Keith,

From what you say, the bike is too small for you. Also, given this sentence:

> I'd estimate that the centre point of the horizontal part of the handlebars (where they pass through the stem) is 5-10 cm lower than the high point (rear) of the saddle.

it also sounds a bit too 'aggressive'. Serious roadies like their stem as long and low as possible because it it is more aerodynamic and 'feels' faster (Also, one of the Allez' target markets is the triathlon crowd - who only ride the bike for 40km, as fast as possible. ). For a newcomer to road cycling, such a low stem is a recipe for back/neck-ache - and doubly so on a bike that's too small!

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