UKC

So I've moved south.

Being fairly new to the area I'm after some reccomendations for crags to visit.

Trad is what I'm after.

I'm based on the northern edge of Dartmoor so stuff further north might be worth it for the day or more likely a weekend.

Sea cliffs and inland recommendations welcome.

Thanks

NC

In reply to Northern Climber:

Lots of useful info here: http://javu.co.uk/ Your log book is hidden, so I don't know what grades you are looking for, let me know and the I can give you more ideas. There's a new CC selected climbs guide for the area due out very soon - http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/south-west-climbs-volume-ii/ you should find that very helpful.

In reply to Northern Climber:

I live on the northern edge of Dartmoor, Okehampton/Chagford area so feel free to get in touch. Mark Kemball and I are co-ordinating a new guide to North Devon & Cornwall coast with the help of local enthusiasts but a "newcomer" without the inevitable bias of familiarity would be most welcome!

In reply to Northern Climber:
Irishman's Wall might be a good place to start for a crag on the north side of the moor. There are plenty of other tors on the north of the moor, but these are very scattered and tend to have just one or two routes each, which rarely get done and so are often green. Places like Great Links Tor, Kes Tor etc; they can hardly be said to be premier crags. If you take the Moretonhamstead/Bovey Road south off of the A30, this should take you through to Haytor area crags in a jiffy. Places like Haytor, Hound Tor, Saddle Tor and eventually Luckey Tor & Bench Tor. These are the southeastern tors. Alternatively, drive down towards and past Tavistock for places like Dewerstone and Sheepstor. There's bouldering all over the moor if that's your thing.

More adventurous climbing on the culm coast (to your north west probably) than you can shake a stick at. Places like Blackchurch, Cornakey, Oldwall's Point, Vicarage Cliff, Screda Point, Sharpnose etc. All absolute class.

In reply to Northern Climber:








See my Dartmoor blog which has a fair selection of what's available. http://dartmoorrock.blogspot.co.uk/

cheers Guys,

I'm looking for anything upto VS at the minute but will check out the websites listed.

I'd be happy to help Ian - send me over an email through here and we'll chat more.

NC

In reply to Northern Climber:

The Dewerstone is a must for the VS grade climber.

In reply to Northern Climber:

On the coast, locally, your best bet is Vicarage Cliff, http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=692 for VSs. Well worth a visit, but to get the most out of a visit, go in on a falling tide. As others have said, the Dewerstone is excellent for that grade too.