UKC

A long three-star Lake District Diff with a short approach

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Tim Chappell 29 Apr 2014
Suggestions please?
 Skyfall 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Heliclimb ascent of Corvus?
 butteredfrog 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

How short?

C Ordinary on Dow, continue up the gully to the summit.

You could park at the intake wall on Walna Scar, would cut the walk in down.
 Oujmik 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

No suggestions I'm afraid but I'd be interested in the suggestions. Was looking for exactly this myself. Corvus is currently a leading contender despite the not-short walk in.

Shepherds Crag has a short walk in and a few D*** routes, but they aren't long.
 The Ivanator 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Would have thought Middlefell buttress is as close as you'll get (seems to get a majority of votes for 3* on UKC, though the guidebook is not as generous). Short walk in and multi-pitch at least.
Removed User 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

How long a route - how short an approach?

I would go with Middlefell Buttress also if it's for a beginner. The main pitch is long enough to provide good interest and it's in a nice situation. Worth 2 stars anyway I reckon.
 shantaram 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Middlefell Buttress, Raven Crag Langdale 10 minute approach

Corvus, Borrowdale 45 minute approach

Giants Crawl, Dow Crag 1 hour approach

Napes ridges, Great Gable 1hr 15 approach

I've racked my brain and there are not many Diffs of 3+ pitches with a short walk in. Middlefell buttress is the only real contender I can think of. Great for a beginner, but slightly underwhelming if you are experienced.
 BusyLizzie 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Hah - I was literally just now logging in to start a thread in exactly the same terms!!!
 BusyLizzie 29 Apr 2014
In reply to all:

... and, to supplement Tim's question, as to length: one that would be practicable from a mid-day start, for transport-related logistical reasons. So a nice long afternoon but not one that needs a whole day.

 butteredfrog 29 Apr 2014
In reply to shantaram:

Has the bottom pitch of Middlefell not fallen off?

Disclamer: I might have drempt this.
 stewart murray 29 Apr 2014
In reply to butteredfrog:

When I was last there last year there were some large blocks on the scree at the foot of the first pitch but there are a number of starts. We went up the short wall just to the right of where the approach path meets the foot of the route and it was fine - Right hand wall start in the guidebook.
 Carolyn 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

> Shepherds Crag has a short walk in and a few D*** routes, but they aren't long.

Possibly strictly only Brown Slabs Arête? Although a number of lesser starred diffs, and 3 star routes at only slightly different grade.
 butteredfrog 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Carolyn:

Its not that long though 1 pitch and a short scramble.
 Skyfall 29 Apr 2014
In reply to BusyLizzie:

As per another thread, the problem with Middlefell Buttress is that it quickly fades into nothing much very special (not really 3 stars). It's also used as a scrambling descent by some, which can be frustrating if you are trying to climb it at the time. However, not a bad idea if trying out some leading.

Also in Langdale, however, and right next to MB are all the severes on Evening Wall at Raven. So a similarly short walk in and they are all several pitches long and rather nice climbs. My recollection is that there is nothing technically hard on them at all, but there are some route finding issues and some gear issues. So, for someone seconding, they should be fine, long enough, and with enough interest and catch the afternoon sun. There's also the other long'ish severe - Caterpillar iirc - at the descent end of the crag. So you could do one of the routes on evening wall, descend and then pop up Caterpillar if you had time?

Just a thought
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Why would you want this anyway? Most valleys in the Lakes take a while to get to from the motorway, so you stay there for at least a weekend. The walk-ins are all part of it, and one reason why many of the routes are so good - they're in remote, high, spectacular, unspoiled situations.
 MG 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

This one, highly entertaining.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4167
 GrahamD 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

There are a few about that grade on Upper Scout crag in Langdale - multipitch but not that long.
 MG 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> Why would you want this anyway?

Maybe he only has half day? Maybe he can't walk far?
 BusyLizzie 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Skyfall:

Thank you. Popping up a Caterpillar sounds interesting. Anything that catches the afternoon sun would be splendid, as i look out at the rain coming down in stair-rods this afternoon.
In reply to MG:

> Maybe he only has half day? Maybe he can't walk far?

Well, the concept of half a day in the Lakes mountains is a little bit odd, but I suppose if you're giving a lecture in Ambleside or Windermere, and have to get home, you just go for something pleasant and a bit underwhelming like Middlefell Buttress, or if you're in Keswick you nip down to do a shortish route on Shepherd's.

Second question, even odder. I suppose there are some medical conditions where you can't walk far but can still rock climb safely .. but I'm not at all sure what those might be, being no expert in that kind of thing.
 BusyLizzie 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth and MG:

Aaaghgh. No no no. Poor Tim - he is being not odd but accommodating. I am arriving by train late morning. So essentially we have a long afternoon. I (unlike Tim) am a numpty, so something easy is called for if I'm going to have a go at leading anything. And whilst the walk will be lovely we wanted to maximise climbing time. Harder (slightly) climbing and longer walking will be done, properly, the following day.

And i have to climb with Tim so that he can return my copy of "Fiva".
In reply to BusyLizzie:

Well, thanks for explaining. Middlefell Buttress it'll have to be then.
 Ramblin dave 29 Apr 2014
In reply to BusyLizzie:

> Aaaghgh. No no no. Poor Tim - he is being not odd but accommodating. I am arriving by train late morning. So essentially we have a long afternoon.

Sunset is, what, half eight at the moment?

Also, I guess people might be able to come up with a VDiff or a Severe with Diff pitches more easily than an all-the-way Diff, if that worked? (Little Cham? I can only remember the bumslide pitch...)
Tim Chappell 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Thank you, Gordon (and others for their input). As Bizzie says, we have an afternoon on the Saturday, and a full day on the Sunday (more or less; we might want to go home at some stage, I suppose). So Sunday is the day for a Troll-Wall-style epic; Saturday we will need to be brisk to get up anything.

We had Bowfell Buttress in mind for our epic. Middlefell Buttress sounds about right for a shorter venture.

I am keen to stay on the S side of the Lakes, and not drive my brains out trying to get to Borrowdale or Buttermere or something.
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Bowfell B a good choice for the long day. The climbing ain't great, quite scruffy (with one odd, much harder pitch), but it's in a glorious position.
 Mark Bull 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Another option might be Tarn Crag: about 45 mins walk-in with several two-star two-pitch Diffs to do.
In reply to Tim Chappell:

With a mid day start you could easily have a nice afternoon on Grey Crag Buttermere linking various climbs at that grade. No individual Diff gets 3 stars but it'd be a 3-star day overall maybe
In reply to Tim Chappell:

note to self: should read the whole thread before replying
 Mark Bull 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Or Dandle Buttress in Longsleddale http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1229 (convenient for a pick-up at Burneside station, 30-40 mins walk-in)?
 Kirill 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Middlefell Buttress is a good suggestion. If you at the top and feel like you want more, it's only another 15 min or so walk to Gimmer from there.
Tim Chappell 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

At least you tried
 JJL 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

If you could streeeetch to VD, a whole load more options present...
 Skyfall 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Kirill:

> Middlefell Buttress ..... it's only another 15 min or so walk to Gimmer from there.

Hmm... I think that's akin to an alpine guidebook time

Probably, given the requirements, they'd be better off doing MB and then, if time permits, something on the evening wall side of Raven.
Tim Chappell 29 Apr 2014
In reply to JJL:
*I* can streetch to a VS 5a... it's me partner
Post edited at 22:01
 Mark Eddy 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Middlefell Buttress seems to tick the boxes. And despite what some say, this is a very good climb that provides superb views of the valley and surrounding fells. From the top continue scrambling upwards until you reach Thorn crag, here you can enjoy a fine grade 1 scramble, then a walk over to Pavey for Crescent Climb (Mod) followed by Gwyneth's chimney (diff). This combination provides loads of climbing and some scrambling, enough for most, and all doable in the wet, just in case!

 Wesley Orvis 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Holly Tree Traverse on Raven Crag is vdiff, but only the first pitch is vdiff, the first belay is pretty exposed but the second and third pitch are only diff. Upper Scout Crag route 2 is vdiff but more like diff. Although I think Middle Fell Buttress is a great route too and the rock fall on the start through the gate has settled.
In reply to A Mountain Journey:

Isn't Crescent Climb the one with a long traverse that's famous for being scary/not suitable for beginners?
 Wesley Orvis 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

If you do Middlefell Buttress your partner could do the diff start and you could do the Castration Crack start at severe right next to it, I've done this lots of times.
 John Kelly 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

> If you do Middlefell Buttress your partner could do the diff start and you could do the Castration Crack start at severe right next to it, I've done this lots of times.

Hi Wes - who's going to pull the gear - is this a cunning crag swag plan?
Tim Chappell 29 Apr 2014
In reply to John Kelly:

No, he wants me to run it out
 Mark Eddy 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

There is indeed a fairly long traverse on Crescent climb. However, this is easy to protect well (slings) and is also easy, so in itself not a reason not to do it.
 John Kelly 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

don't do it
In reply to A Mountain Journey:

OK - it's just that I've heard quite a lot of bad things about it recently. Probably bollox. Your itinerary sounds v good for a quite long day. I remember quite a good rambly scramble straight up (well, diagonally right) to the summit of Harrison Stickle ... I don't think Thorn Crag? ... from that huge terrace above the finish of Middlefell Buttress.
 Wesley Orvis 29 Apr 2014
In reply to John Kelly:

Hi john depends if I do the left start then I only put a thread through the block at the top for the step off the pinnacle and this can be removed from the belay and allows my second to try out severe otherwise I just ab off the pinnacle straight down the crack and do the severe start too
 John Kelly 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

ok Wes you beat the rap (that must be a first on here)
 Wesley Orvis 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Skyfall:

Centipede is quite serious IMO I don't think there is a route called caterpillar I maybe wrong .
 Mark Eddy 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

Agreed Wesley, Centipede feels quite serious with a fair bit of loose rock on the 1st pitch then a traverse around that corner on the 2nd, and more loose rock above.
 Kirill 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Skyfall:

Maybe longer than 15 min, I didn't measure, but it felt quick.
 Wesley Orvis 29 Apr 2014
In reply to A Mountain Journey:

Also the belay after the traverse is quite dodgy from memory
 GPN 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Kirill:

> Maybe longer than 15 min, I didn't measure, but it felt quick.

It's half an hour at least!
 Skyfall 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

Centipede it is.

I don't think severe is a problem for Tim leading or his partner following and that was the context in which I mentioned it. Apologies if I've confused matters.
 Simon Caldwell 30 Apr 2014
In reply to Tim Chappell:

How about Trinity Slabs at Wallowbarrow? Top end Diff or easy VDiff, about 4 pitches I think.
 Skyfall 30 Apr 2014
In reply to A Mountain Journey:
> over to Pavey for Crescent Climb (Mod) followed by Gwyneth's chimney (diff).

Which are a good combination on their own and an alternative, if less classic, to Bowfell Buttress. Crescent Climb is a little loose and subject to stuff being kicked off from above but is enjoyable and quite alpine combined with Gwynne's Chimney. I'm sure I found some ancient tricouni marks on Crescent Climb when I did it about about 15-20 years ago.

I think that doing Middlefell B and then onto Pavey would be a very long day (and the OP may have designs on leading MB on the 1st afternoon).

Agree with Simon C that Wallowbarrow is very good indeed at lower grades but a little hard to get to quickly by car and not "epic" for a big day out
Post edited at 14:51

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