UKC

In this article training fanatic and qualified physiotherapist Peter Mortensen shows us his journey to do a pinkie one arm pull up!

Using a series of videos Peter demonstrates how he trained for this impressive feat of climbing strength. But our question is of course.... "What has he done on Grit?!"

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6307

In reply to UKC Articles:

beast

In reply to UKC Articles:

80kg added weight?! Seriously?! Don't really know why this is posted on a climbing website...

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Literally one of the most ridiculous climbing articles I have ever read.

In reply to samwillo:

Where's this climbing article you speak of?

I jest... Thinking about trying this makes my fingers hurt

In reply to UKC Articles:

Best article ever no doubts.

In reply to samwillo:


Entertaining though in a tongue in cheek kind of way.

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Had to check it wasn't April 1st again already

Does this guy actually climb? Note the under hand grip. Surely an over hand grip is more applicable for climbers.

That's a load of ol' squit.

In reply to samwillo:

Not really - it shows what's possible with sufficient training. Clearly a pinkie pull up in itself isn't going to be relevant for climbing (may be some overhanging horror with tiny pockets that will only take a pinkie? like Action Direct but harder!) but if I had that kind of finger strength I'm pretty sure I'd be able to climb a fair bit harder.

In reply to UKC Articles:

I stumbled across Peter Mortensen's YouTube videos and website when I became interested in achieving a one-arm pull-up some time ago. I think most climbers have trained pull-ups in one form or another for a period of time and it is natural to be interested what are the limits of performance with this exercise.

Some climbers are solely concentrated on their climbing ability, but many (like me) are also interested in general physical development. I find the article and the website a good motivational tool. To be honest I am surprised with the negativity of some comments. Even if one-arm pinky pull-ups may be only loosely related to climbing ability, there is no need at all to ridicule the article.

I started climbing and training in January after a 5 months layoff from any physical exercise. I do weights once a week now. I recently broke my personal best with a full range of motion neutral-grip pull-up with +44kg at 70kg body mass. It feels good when you achieve personal best results. And I am back with my climbing ability as well.

I respect what Peter Mortensen has achieved. And his website shows that it is possible to become very strong training at home. Stevie Haston's blog falls in the same category - and the author has done 9a being 52 years old, and literally does thousands of pull-ups including one-armers.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Interesting article.
The author is very upfront about him being primarily interested in feats of strength over technical climbing skills; "so “strength over technique” became my trademark. For years my primary goal was to become the strongest Danish climber – not the best Danish climber!"
For me it's a refreshing change from a more yoga-like 'being in touch with the moment' type of approach to climbing. (Not that I would personally try any of his training methods in the near future).

In reply to bluesharper:

I agree; this is an interesting article - it shows what's possible - and the negative comments above puzzle me.

>... Even if one-arm pinky pull-ups may be only loosely related to climbing ability ...

Hey - they didn't do John Gill's climbing ability any harm!

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Very interesting article! Peter Mortensen's site is pretty inspiring. Good stuff.

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I thought the article was really interesting. Peter comes across as a really sound guy, and is clearly passionate about pull ups - which is cool!

There is no cheating your way to a pinkie pull up, that is some serious dedication.

Although it might not have all that much to do with what many people think of as climbing, what is really cool about climbing is the diversity, from Himalayan stuff to carrying rocks around your garden with your pinkie fingers - it did make me smile!

Go Peter!



Jack

In reply to UKC Articles:

Wonder how useful a pinkie pull up is when your not next to a bolt and on a run out trad pitch.Many climbers these days seem to need head training!!

In reply to jon:

Good response

In reply to jon:

Very good Jon!

In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

What did Mark Twight say in him seminal book "Extreme Alpinism"

"Power is no bad thing to have in excess"

In reply to UKC Articles: Got me there Jon...still that lad got turned around on Post Mortem ..no pinky holds on that climb .. he however is a dam good trad climber .