/ UKC Fit Club Week 372

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mattrm - on 04 May 2014
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.

Psyche video of the week - http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2098 (Pinky one arm pullups? Mental!) - Suggestions welcome

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=585457

Dandan82 - Injury sucks. Get well soon.
Nick Russell - It's nice just to tick easy stuff and have fun from time to time. Even more Lakes classics. Nice.
Tubb93 - Kaly sounds fun. Didn't realise there was much bouldering there. Did you tick the 7B then?
JimmyKay - That's a nice ticklist there. Ace.
grubes - Wooo! Ride done. Cider drunk. Sounds like an ace week.
hms - Sandstone can be hard to read and holds aren't obvious. So don't beat yourself up about it. Is Sirhowy nice? never been there.
mrchewey - Get back on the squats you lazy so and so.
Joughton - Nice week there. Now about that 8a? Weak he says. Only a few V5-6s he says...
Exile - Lots of mtbing. Adult cardio? Isn't that some other form of 'adult' exercise? ;)
mattrm - Well done on the diet. No seriously. You didn't loose weight this week did you, yeh dozy tubber. Having said that standing on a nail didn't help.
Tyler - I aim to please. Seriously tho, it's nice to see you back. Well done on the weight loss, it's harder than it looks sometimes. What's teh Malham proj?
Alun - Congrats on the weight. Sounds like some nice rides. You can do the 7c, CRUSH IT!!!
mbh - Keep it up. Miles in the bank. All good. Any races coming up?
IainRUK - 118 miles? Two wins? Lots of prize money! 50k in 4:48 and a course record? Amazing. Stunning. It's great to see where the dedication gets you.
Ally - Unjustified eh? Good luck. Any chance of a video of you on that? about the finger.
biscuit - Yup yoga is good. Finger better?
Sankey - Did you try my amazing new bouldering technique? Awesome isn't it? Taking the Space? what grade? Either way good luck on it.
ppg - Get off the TR! Get on the lead. It'll come. Have you kept up the stretching?
Si Cox - wb matey. Onsight V5, but only climbing E1? Me thinks you need to up those grades a little. E4 is surely possible? Pick some well protected E2s and see how you go.
Humperdink - Watched the vid. Super fast. Kept expecting the guy who won to blow up but he didn't. You were in a white vest with stripes right? Looking at your watch a lot? Or blue shorts? Anyway well done on the PB. It was amazingly fast. Super effort there.
Ali - The amazing, the wonderful, the one I forgot last week. Oops. Sorry again. Feeling better? Lost weight? Sponsor her here - https://www.livebelowtheline.com/me/samandali Thanks for the cragmeister beta.
Just Tintin - Least you got out to do a maintenance session. Well done for organising the sportive. Hard work that sort of thing and often a thankless task.
Jamming Dodger - sounds like a nice fun week. I really rate yoga. Well worth sticking with.
ashley - Got rained off Hope you're well rested?
Luke Owens - Progress on the 7A+ and well done on the link up. Detailed training as always. Do you have a home wall then?
stevemarkperry - Got Flowers yet? I hate to go 'ummm eeerrrr' to peoples goals (when mine are so daft) but 500 routes by the end of the year (when you've done like 8 so far) does seem like a bit of a reach. Maybe shuttle it down to a slightly smaller number? I'm keen to get up to the Roaches, so if I can make it maybe I can get you up a few easy classics? Hope that's constructive criticism. I'm all for big goals. Feel free to ignore me, I normally do.

8a club - just thought I'd see who's where on the road to 8a

mattrm - hahahahahahahahaha.... er suspect it'll be 8a in 10 years if ever....
Joughton - Should have done it by now ;)
Tubb93 - Not yet
Nick Russell - Not far (7b+)
alun - I reckon it'll be soon.
ppg - Not far either.
Luke - 7b rp, so shouldn't be far off
Biscuit - Bumping around 7c? Soon I'm sure.
Luke Owens - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt!

> Do you have a home wall then?

I have a Beastmaker at home and I use the works gym.

> Luke - 7b rp, so shouldn't be far off

My hardest is 7b+. Getting loads of bouldering in lately.

I'm looking after our little one all the time right now as my other half has a lot of course work to finish. Getting out bouldering when the little one is in bed. Feeling stronger.

Can't wait to get back on the rope! Hopefully this week!
Post edited at 00:51
mrchewy - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

The only thing I'm getting back to is... work! All bloomin' weekend. Ah well..
heelhookofglory - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. That is constructive and something I'm very aware of. TBH I set that goal at the start of the year when it was still tough but also fairly reachable but as the year as moved along and my business has taken up more of my time I'm finding myself nipping out for quick blasts on the MTB or short and sweet bouldering sessions. So the trad goals have slipped away a little for now.

Thanks for the offer of getting out with me. Sounds good although I'll have to pre-plan a little if possible.

Stats coming later after today's activities.
biscuit - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt !
Posting at midnight is impressive dedication.

2 yoga sessions this week. I'm loving it. One session this week highlighted a real weakness in general core and hip flexors.

Big news of the week was getting Truth Drug done at Kilnsey. My first UK 7b+ and no soft touch at the grade. 3 sessions, though the 2nd was a very poor 2 crap top rope efforts when I felt ill the week before and doesn't really count.

I had some input from John Kettle (climbing coach) a while ago and he put me onto visualisation techniques. I used it for the first time and it was amazing. Got to the hands off rest and then I can't remember anything until I grabbed the hold at the end of the hard climbing. Total focus and commitment. It felt amazing and quite easy. I then nearly fluffed it on the easy, but hard to read, 6b ground to the top. Oops !

My reward was a go on Comedy. I've decided it got it's name due to how hilariously difficult it is to get the clips in and out. First acquaintance felt impossible but I was told by The Fox that I looked much better on it first go than he did and he's just climbed it so fingers crossed. It's an inspiring, intimidating, route and I'm totally psyched for it. Going back on Tuesday for another go weather permitting.

Going out on the bike later. I need to improve my core for Comedy (yoga) but the scales make for depressing reading at present and dropping the excess will no do any harm getting up such a steep route.
AJM - on 04 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

Nice Andy well done.
Luke Owens - on 04 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

Strong effort, well done!
Exile - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fit club again. won't even begin to explain adult cardio!


Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)

Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

Next winter start with VI 7

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: 50min fell run
T: 2hrs at Scout Scar. Top roped Leather Pets,(6c+,) clean. Didn't fire me up as a route though so had another few top ropes on A Vision of Things Gone Wild, (7b,) instead of leading LPs. Good session - progress on the crux of Vision - hopefully not too far off a clean top rope.
W: 50min fast, (for me!) hilly bike ride.
T: Nothing
F: 1hrs wall session. Lapping previously completed traverses for 'butch' endurance.
S: Nothing
S: 1,5 hrs Red Wall - 8 x TR on thuggy E3,(1 rep then 5 reps then 2 reps.) Another good endurance session, but moves not really hard enough for 7b training.

Steady climbing week - could do with leading something soon though!

Weight this morning 11st 10lb - going down.

Exile - on 04 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

Good effort fella!
Tyler - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> What's teh Malham proj?

L'Ob Session

M: Run. Very gentle as I was with others who, astonishingly, run slower than me and also because we got a lift up the hill
T: Craig y Longridge, managed the first fifth which is something I've been trying for ages, very happy
W: Friend's board, not very focused but climbed until it was prudent not to lose any more skin
T: First longish run for ages (1year?) - SH-BH-HH-PT, didn't time myself and walked a lot of the uphill but done it now.
F: legitimate rest
S: Malham, three redpoint attempts getting to within half a move from easy ground on one attempt and well past the penultimate bolt on the other two. This includes the crux which I've only been able to do in isolation 25% of the time previously so a HUGE improvement, not sure I have enough left to get it tomorrow
S: Walk up Pendle Hill, took a heavy rucksack so I'm counting this as training as it felt at least as taxing as Thursday's run
mattrm - on 04 May 2014
In reply to Tyler:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12672 - that right?

Exile - Adult cardio, it's when a mummy and a daddy love each other very much.... Seriously, you need to explain it ;)

Biscuit - well done on the 7b+ Not dedicated it's just that I'm sad enough to stay up all night long on my computer.
Tyler - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

That's the one, it was on the cover of one of the first magazines I ever bought back 1987 so it's been on the list for a while!
hms - on 04 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. I really liked Sirhowy. The good routes were excellent. Seems a shame it obviously doesnt get loads of traffic.

M cycle commute then TRX + fingerboard session
T cycle commute
W Ban y gor with Nick. We would appear to have a project - a 7b+ arete route. I only had 1 TR go as my arms virtually exploded, but definitely worth some work. 2 clips v powerful, 1 clip very thin traverse, then 2 clips of snatchy arete.
T cycle commute
F supposed to be climbing outside but got let down at the last minute. So TCA bouldering. Did a ew more of the back circuit (6a+ to 6c), but don't think many more will go. Tried using new shoes (anasazi pinks) and got on better than I had on routes, but they still seem v stiff & insensitive.
S traversing on local stone wall, then trying dyno type moves to the brick top which went surprisingly well, then back home for a TRX session + 30 pullups
S with Garouli at Tintern. Flashed a 6c+ (chosen to practise aretes - which t then turned out to to use!) then had 3 goes at a 7a+. 20m of delightful overhanging thuggery, then 8m of crimpy reachy horror-show. Will need a rope above me to totally suss the transition between the two, as I kept lobbing off whatever I tried.

So, 7b+ project is exciting but could take a while! Hope to get back on it next week, weather allowing.
Banned User 77 - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

thanks, and well done for doing this..

Not such a great week, started off OK, decent quality after recovery and first week of taper

Not a bad week getting my legs going again after the 50k.. but horrifically bad race today.. felt flat, maybe allergies, but sub 58's for 10 mile would have been OK a few years back, just felt awful today and jogged in.

M: slow 4 around trails and road finished 8.30's legs not too bad
T: slow 4 on the roads. pm:5 miles treadmill 7 pace
W: 4.5 miles on road. pm: 10k at 6:17 pace
T: steady 4.5 around the floods. pm: 10k with 5 x 1km reps at 5:20-5:10 pace
F: am: steady 5.8 over the ben franklin bridge pm: run out at Valley Forge NP, up Mt Joys and Misery... nice area
S: 10 miles slow on trails
S; Broadstreet 10 miler, fast 10 miler, cumulative descent but has rolling hills 57:40 or so.. just felt awful after mile 4-5 and finished around 6:10 min milling.. just flat..

Poor race, expected sub 55 at least, maybe low 54's but was just off the pace all race and was flat by the end, had alergy's all week with the pollen so maybe that was a factor or last week..
grubes - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

This week I have done nothing at all but drink and eat

Font on Wednesday for a week!
mbh - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thank you Matt!

M - nothing
T - nothing

so a slow start, then it picked up

W - 10 miles flat
T - 9.5 miles on coast path to Hell's Mouth and through woods
F - 10.5 miles on the coast path around St Agnes Head
S - 10.6 miles am, 7.5 miles pm
S - 5.1 miles am, then cycle Bude-Crackington Haven on the coast road (9.4 m/ 1200 ft), walk back on the coast path (10.4 m/1800 ft. Retrieve bikes on way home.

6 runs, 53 miles, 5000 ft ascent, plus a ride and a walk.
Tubb93 - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mattrm.

STG (by end of May)

Boulder V6 inside
Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos (TICK)
Climb 6c (Managed 6B+ so pretty happy)

MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (September) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

Lead 8a
Boulder V9

This week:
M- travelled back to uni
T- HAd a great even bouldering at caseg fraith. Ticked 'Oh Yeah' (V5) without too much trouble, as well as get lots of V3-4s
W-rest day
T- CLimbed at indy, flashed a V4 and got a few other V4s and one V5
F- went home
S- work
S- work

Really happy with my V5 tick this week especially as it is a stiff V5!
Dandan82 - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt, still injured, I've been properly banned from climbing by the physio for the time being, rubbish!
I did chest session at the gym Monday, core on Tuesday and that was about it, I'm trying to stay active but it's a bit tricky to find motivation. Going to see the physio on Wednesday so hopefully we can make some progress there.

If the 8a club list is going to appear every week, can stick me on it too? I'm still determined to hit it this year. (outdoor 7a+ best so far this year)
ashley1_scott - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

M - Hands a little sore from spending the whole weekend on plastic instead of rock as planned, rested
T - Work followed by 3 hours climbing, some 5c's and 6a leads.
W - Decided that I have put on a little bit of weight, so am going to start running again. Aiming at an ultra marathon meddle of next year, not sure on if to do the 40 mile or the 70 mile
T - Fingerboard workout, as climbing partners were both working nights
F - Rested
S - Short jog
S - 5 hours at climbing centre, nothing over 6a.
Kevster - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Hello again,

Thought I'd try a return to FC. Life got too hectic last year and injury stopped me climbing for a couple of months (Knee issues).
May go the same way again, but unless we try, who knows what will happen?

Seems that the FC members are powering away still, and some newer ones (I have had a few sneaky peeks) also giving the max. Well done andy on 8a, though expected with the volume he's been getting in.

For me, my ramble away:
September 2013 was the last serious trad efforts until easter this year. Ticked E3 (Butcher @ Easter) and this weekend tried Arms race E4 OS, but failed. Led it clean fine with the gear in. Next time, though I expect a few goes might be needed to refine the placements and pump minimisation.
I seem to have picked trad back up OK, plans for this year E4 onsight. Volume of E2 and E3. As with sport previously, I am trying to avoid routes under E1 even as warm ups, unless they are decorated gems or the company I am with requires.

I don't, especially as my knees are more fragile than ever it seems. Might try some indoors at some point.

Again, no serious sport for 6 months. Sicily at new year was a let down climbing wise. Did manage ratline and Cairn in a day and a bit at harpur hill the other weekend. I think the onsight level has dipped slightly.

Sport ambitions:
As alway, getting on the hard routes is an ass to do. But shouldn't be an excuse. So, 7c or above this year? Though I've said this for 5 years now.
Onsights? get to 7a happily again, 7a+ more often and maybe get a 7b onsight. That'd be a proud day.

Since the enforced break, I'm back to several low 7's clean in a session, though wall variety is lacking.
Have finger boarded 2-3 times this year, need to make this regular.
Got fat too, so also need to do some proper exercise etc.

Upcoming focus: Riglos & lleida end of May, Also have weekends June and July to possible big tick venues. Also want to get Skeleton Ridge done, any experience here?

Thanks, Kev.
mrchewy - on 05 May 2014
In reply to Kevster:
Nice to see you back Kev. Effort on The Butcher, I ran away from trying to second it, too steep for me.

Mon - New boulder set. No grades. Had an ace session, whizzed about after a few days off and just went at stuff I fancied. Knee playing up, so skipped lots of the last holds...
Tue - Saw the grades. Gutted. If I hadn't bailed on the top move of one problem, I'd have had my first V4 at Pinnacle, a flash too. Right miffed. Rubbish session, was tired, sore and hadn't eaten all day.
Wed - Drove to Wales after work.
Thu - Glyder Fawr with a mate, it was his last Welsh 3000. He'd never climbed before at all but tied a rope on him and shot off up Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs. Soloing basically as he couldn't belay. It rained on pitch 2, pitch 3 was running water and by the time we topped out to do Cneiffon Arete, Omar was bolloxed. So Senior's Ridge and the summit it was.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Worked late.
Sun - Worked. Was gonna do something but hayfever killed me off.

Gonna head in now and try to get that V4, it felt like V2 at the time, which is why I wasn't over fussed about the top move. Been trying to protect the knees lately, which I guess is more important than grade chasing.
I think Monday was the best boulder session I've had at Pinnacle to be honest. I ate before I went (rare), had rested 4 days and warmed up on two routes... plenty to think about there.
Post edited at 10:56
biscuit - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers AJM, Luke, Exile and Matt.

I'm chuffed to have done it,but to be honest i am more impressed with using the visualisation techniques correctly. It's amazing stuff.

Can't wait to try it out on Comedy tomorrow - hopefully. I may end up at Malham though My finger is feeling good but i may avoind crimps and get on ER's route with no crimps.
The Fox - on 05 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

My finger is feeling good but i may avoind crimps and get on ER's route with no crimps.

no crimps on Comedy...
mrchewy - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mrchewy:
Edit - checked the grades again today and it seemed one of the the other problems I flashed was a V4. First V4 at Pinnacle but Jordon set it not Alex. Still, saw a few people back off the top move today who are far better climbers than I am.

Post edited at 18:01
biscuit - on 05 May 2014
In reply to The Fox:

Alright boss !

Take the space is the back up plan if I end up at Malham.
biscuit - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

Nice one !

Bit of a benchmark grade indoors I find.
mrchewy - on 05 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers. I dare say that if I'd have known it was V4, I'd not have made the last move.

Tried a few V4s today and it certainly seems like a genuine step up, a bit like 6b in sport.
Alun - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt!

Trip report time this week, as this weekend Jo B was here and we had four days climbing in a row. My skin is trashed. It was my first proper sport climbing trip since I became a dad, and so I didn't want to pressure myself with too many goals. So my main goal was to enjoy the luxury of four days climbing in a row BUT I did want to tick (at least) 7a onsight and try a 7c. Jo, fresh from recently ticking his 3rd 8a at LPT, wanted to onsight 7b+.

FRI - Pick up Jo from airport in Barcelona and drive to Camarasa. A mostly quiet day because Jo was tired from waking up at 4am. I muffed the OS of a 7a but ticked it first RP pretty easily. Rest of the day was 6s in sector La Selva, out of the sun. It's already way to hot to climbing in the sun!!

SAT - Hungover from the bottle of Jura that Jo bought. But battled on through and had a good day in Abella de la Conca. Onsighted a 30m 7a in great style - no chalked holds, no draws, and no hint of any beta. Dead chuffed. Jo thought it was probably 7a+ if not soft 7b. Abella grades are apparently reknowned for being stiff. Then we played on a 7b+ roof which was fun, but neither of us got near it on redpoint. So we retired to the refuge to completely fail to not-drink scotch! :S

SUN - Woke up feeling very tired. We went back to La Selva in Camarasa to climb with a local climbing friend who is leaving Barcelona, so last time to see him. After warming up I muffed the flash of a 6c+/7a and I was pretty pissed off. Things picked afterwards as I flashed a 7a+ and 7b in quick succession. They were both probably easier than the 7a from saturday, but hey, you've got to take the guidebook ticks! Then worked the moves of a lovely 7b+ tufa. Was pretty tired so didn't have a RP burn (I regret that a bit now) but it will go next time I'm certain.

MON - Wasn't expecting much today as last night I could barely make a fist, the skin on my fingers was in so much pain. And so it proved. We went south to Arbolí (for various reasons) and after warming up I worked the moves on a 7c and got completely shut down by the crux. I just couldn't do it. Then I split a tip while trying to onsight a crimpy 7b, which was a sign to say that the trip was officially over.

So, in summary: a great trip with plenty of good climbing and onsights/flashes in the 7a/7b range. Was a bit disappointed to have been shut down by the 7c but it was the 4th day on and my fingers are a complete mess, so no real surprise. Jo ticked his 7b+ OS too, so chuffed for him. This week? I shall mostly be working/resting!
Alun - on 05 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

> Big news of the week was getting Truth Drug done at Kilnsey. My first UK 7b+

Great news! Congrats!
JayK - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers buddy. Equally decent weather this weekend has allowed me to amass another decent list.

Tried to get to Robin Hood stride on Tuesday after work. Far too warm, no breeze and the midges were out. Rock was literally sweating. Thought it was time to call grit season to a close. Until the weekend. Think I'm going to try and get a few evening sessions in at rubicon as it doesn't seem to bad to get there after work.

T-Robin Hood stride. Tried big alq and bens wall. Soooo greasy.
W-big core session at the wall. 750 core movements, 200 press ups and 3x 2:30 and 1x 4:30 plank.
T-rest day
F- ilkley. Got there at 7:30pm. Warmed up in the quarry. Then went and ticked Doris direct (7B+/C) third go and then ring piece (7B/+) after a bit of work just before it went dark.
S- earl crag. Took it easy due to sore skin. Did grape nut (7A+/B) then desert island arête from sit (7A+/B) and then finished ticking sloping beauty (7B/+).
S- almscliffe. Warmed up and then got on Jess' roof (7C) fell off the crux on the flash. Got it about 5th go when I sacked off technique and decided to just lock the crimp in front lever. Went and flashed a demon wall eliminate (7B/+) before firing off underhand (7B+) third go. I did it second go but dabbed (ninja kicked spotter on the cut loose). Fell off the match of top cat traverse about 6 times and trashed all my skin.
M- finished at Brimham today which was shit. Crappy compared to the rest of Yorkshire and there were more kids than at my school. Did about 5 very poor quality (7A/+)s. Wasn't impressed. But then my skin was trashed. Just in the pub for victory sausage and mash.

Also just done a short core session as I've been slacking with all the climbing. 360core movements 100pressups and 6 mins of plank
Post edited at 20:40
mattrm - on 05 May 2014
In reply to Dandan82:

It can be there every week if folk want it to? I was just doing it out of curiosity to see who was on the list and where folk where. Does seem like a lot of folk are at 7a/+ onsights and 7b and 7c redpoints, but not yet moved up to 8a.
mattrm - on 05 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 11st 12lbs (stayed the same)

M - 150 dish tucks
T - concrete for shed base
W - concrete for shed base
T - final sort of shed base
F - 200 dish tucks
S - 200 dish tucks - 1:16m bring sally up
S - 2 hours shifting rubble

Spent most of the week sorting stuff out for the shed. Chuffed with the 1 min 16 secs bring sally up. Was over at my parents house totally wierded Mum out as I was doing power screams on the last few ups before I collapsed. Busy week ahead, destroying the outside loo & coal shed and building a new retaining wall and series of raised beds. Doubt I'll get any climbing done and will probably be fairly broken by the end of the week.
Just Tintin - on 06 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt! It’s certainly good to do some proper exercise this week.

A question for you and FitClubbers… What is a good yearly total of real rock to aim for as a weekend climber? Stats for 2014 currently on 47 trad routes, 7 sport routes and 122 boulder problems according to UKC (more like 150 with ones that aren’t on it and I haven’t got round to adding)… I know it depends on grade/multipitch etc but just want to set some kind of target to see how it goes.

M – Boulder Brookes. Warm up on greens 2 new blue circuit problems (red and black) Worked grey pushy one - nearly there
T – Boulder Milton Keynes. 10x orange circuit 10x black circuit 3xpink circuit (V3-5) - quite pleasing Nearly have a v4-6 - just need to be fresher and not to have other people starting routes crossing my problem when I’m already on the wall.
W – Boulder Milton Keynes. Well not really – paid £8 for a warm up x 4 problems then flashed the yellow V4-6 I didn't get yesterday as it was driving me mad.
T – Rest
F – Rest
S – Trad Stanage Popular up to HVS 5b. An 18-star haul from 9 routes. Mississippi Buttress is a true joy. Can’t believe I haven’t done it before!
S – Boulder Froggatt Pinnacle x 20 problems. Traumatised lots of walkers with the ungainly pull round on Air Bear.
Ally Smith on 06 May 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

Another strong week there JimmyKay!

Time to put a rope on and crush some routes?
Nick Russell on 06 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> Nick Russell - It's nice just to tick easy stuff and have fun from time to time. Even more Lakes classics. Nice.
Thanks matt, yeah enjoying the classics at the moment. Lots more climbing for me this week too, with a good mix of harder stuff in there too.

> (In reply to 8a club) Not far (7b+)
It feels like a long way! I reckon one of those grades will come from trying a route for longer that 2-3 sessions, another will come from training over the next few months, but that still leaves one more...

M - Swimming (4.5km)
T - Bouldering at Bloc. Got another of the yellows, plus good efforts on some steep stuff on the front wall.
W - Ban-y-Gor with hms. Flash/OS of 6b+,6b,6c and started on a 7b+ project (Latest Craze, same as hms). I think I figured out all the moves - it's an arete with heel hooks all the way up - and even have a good idea of where to make the clips. It's definitely a go-er, maybe next time if I rest the day before.
Swimming (2.9km)
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - am Parkrun. New 5km/parkrun PB of 19:55! This was the Shrewsbury course, much easier than Ashton Court and net downhill (2 'up' segments to 3 'down', only about 20m each, I think). Pleased with that.
pm Climbing at World's End (Clwyd). 9 E-points, and an E4 onsight (World's Edge, E4 6a)! Chuffed with that too, even if the ukc votes say it's soft.
S - More Clwyd, Pinfold. Highlight was 'Solo in Soho', E3 6a and a very good route.

A good week: decent progress on a sport project, 5km/Parkrun PB and an E4 onsight.

I also feel like the bouldering was coming back pretty quickly and had a productive physio session on Tuesday.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 2, clean onsight: 1
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 136/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*
*Relay splits

Short-term goals

  • Find then send a sport project in 7b-7c range.
    Latest Craze, 7b+. Got the moves, think I've got the clips, should go quickly.
  • Re-gain some strength: keep up 2 bouldering/fingerboard sessions per week.
    One bouldering session last week. Not quite on target, but as much as expected.
  • Plan/train for trips in September/October: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in US East Coast.
hms - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

I still think that using twin ropes on Latest Craze might be the way to do that tricky 3rd clip. Looking forward to another go at it - maybe I should risk using my new shoes as I'm starting to trust them more!
Ally Smith on 06 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks again for detailed round up of each contributors posts.

Had a solid week of climbing; bouldering, sport and trad ticks. Pleasantly surprised by my trad head-space after not placing gear since last August! Current sport fitness meant that I could stay super in control despite the lofty grades.

LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
- Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training faciliites
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension)
- Recently found and done all the individual moves on a great looking 7C+/8A f8b-ish link-up FA; love to get this ticked!
- Bolt the Dinbren project (Luke Owens - thanks for the drill loan!)
- On-sight some E5s in prep for...
- Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – amazed to be getting close despite eating loads this week - 74.5kg and 6.5% BF this morning

STG (The coming week)
- Keep physio’ing the shoulder
- Do a 7C so I’ve got an ascent in each of the UKC “top ascents” categories

Last week:
M - Pantymwyn evening session – progress on a bunch of things. Got twisted into crux of Be Ruthless for the 1st time. Did campus move on Thug Mentality a few times, just never from the back! Pair of 7B ticks - Mental Extension & Guth Mentality.
T - Gentle racecourse wall traverses breaking in new boots.
W - Weights, core and shoulder physio.
T - Rest – ate far too much bread and cheese.
F - Evening at Kilnsey. 6c, 7a warm-ups. 7c+ dog. Car bivvy after slap up dinner and beer.
S - Kilnsey, same warm-ups, then 2nd 7c+ RP. Tried Indian Summer, 8b+. No chance – scrub that off the to-do-list. Social call at Malham, 7a+ warm-down. Great dinner with Ali, Quiddity, Curious Yellow et al.
S - Nesscliffe. E2 6a, E7 6c TR, E4 6a flash, E7 6c HP; felt great being able to shake out all the way up, E5 6b flash. Pizza, beer, wine, whiskey and late night banter.
M - Strong scene at Nesscliffe. E8 6c TR, E8 6c HP (in a rain shower, oops!), E6 6c TR, E7 6c TR; some good stuff to go back for?
Then some fat punter pulled the wobbly jug off the top of My Piano an hour after I’d lead it and verbalised my fears for its solidity pulling over the top. Close call!
Nick Russell on 06 May 2014
In reply to hms:
> I still think that using twin ropes on Latest Craze might be the way to do that tricky 3rd clip

Possibly... I'll probably have another working go next time before jumping straight on RP (if only to get the draws in). Hopefully the weather will be ok Thursday.
hms - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

looked like there might be a bit of rain in the morning but dry in the afternoon. And the comments on the route do say (slightly bizarrely) that it stays dry in the rain.
JayK - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Slotting in the E8 HP as if it was slightly insignificant there! Great effort. Although, ballsy trad - as was demonstrated by the jug break isn't currently my thing!

I'm in Spain in 2 weeks. So I'm routing then. Looking to get some Yorkshire visits in soon though as well. I'm still in training mode at the moment so hopefully I'll be a bit stronger in a couple of months.
Tyler - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Then some fat punter pulled the wobbly jug off the top of My Piano an hour after I’d lead it and verbalised my fears for its solidity pulling over the top. Close call!

Were they ok? I thought it was a no fall zone up there?
Kevster - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Just Tintin:

If you're eagar, 50 sessions in a year is not unusual I'd say. If your obsessed, I bet 100 is not un common.
I live 2.5 hours from the nearest crag. All I have included here are outside climbs. But I have had 2-3 holidays per year - spring, autumn and new year. Week each time, which boosts the numbers.

Curious yellow, ER, AJM, JimmyK, Ally et al., are probably whooping my ass in volume of sessions. Thats why they are better/higher achieving climbers I suspect - they've invested more. Simple.

The Diary section of your logbook will give the stats.
You asked for quanities of routes, number of sessions may be a better measure:

I climbed , including a couple of weeks holiday each year climbing
285 routes in 2011 over 63 sessions
219 routes in 2012 over 54 sessions
126 routes in 2013 over 39 sessions
37 so far this year over 7 sessions (excluding the 3 days at new year holidays).

2011 was a good summer for me with about 7 days per month outside, with a few holidays thrown in. I also helped set up a club, so had a reasonable volume of lower grade climbs.
2012 was less prolific, but I started to work on trad a bit more than sport. I also got girlfriended up this year.
2013 was a terrible year for weather, and I went on non climbing holidays (GF). I also only did one day after mid September due to life and weather.
However, I upped my trad grade well. Sport has remained constant since 2010.
This year, injury has had me out of action for a couple of months.

Regards, Kev.
JayK - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Very helpful. One of the reasons why you've been missed on this thread. Welcome back!
Ally Smith on 06 May 2014
In reply to Tyler:

> Were they ok? I thought it was a no fall zone up there?

Fatty was on top rope. He was however climbing past the anchors and nearly took a lead fall onto the static rope!

Bit of a brown trouser moment...
Ally Smith on 06 May 2014
In reply to Kevster:
Interesting stats - not looked at that feature of the logbooks before.

Admittedly there is only a record of my outdoor climbs:

326 routes in 2010 over 87 sessions
351 routes in 2011 over 100 sessions
313 routes in 2012 over 92 sessions
473 routes in 2013 over 116 sessions
157 so far this year over 39 sessions

Add in 3 indoor sessions a week for 3 or 4 months of the year (hardly ever train indoors if the weather permits) and I might have a total of >150 sessions in a year!

Think I might fit into your "obsessed" definition!

So that's a good volume of outdoor climbing which correlates neatly with my thinking that I'm a climber who can move well, but is fundamentally weak compared to my peers. I.e. i get burnt off by f7b climbers on a 45 degree board.
Post edited at 15:27
biscuit - on 06 May 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

> Slotting in the E8 HP as if it was slightly insignificant there! Great effort !


Ali - on 06 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt!! Cold much improved and definitely feeling better for getting back to a proper diet - it was really interesting how much it affected me, and I did pretty well in getting a balanced diet within my budget. Makes you realise what a difference diet makes to your ability to think, exercise and live normally.

Anyway, onto last week (and this Monday as bank holiday).

M - nothing - cooked
T - Biscuit Factory - warmed up ok, did a couple of decent problems then abandoned early as feeling light-headed
W - 25 min morning jog in the park - very slow, but picked some dandelion leaves for dinner!
T - nothing (too ill/knackered to run to work)
F - nothing
S - Malham, beautiful Malham! Dogged and TR Rose Coronary to warm up, then got on Tremalo on top rope to try and work the moves out. Found it very hard, hurt core, hurt fingers, hurt wrist, felt waaay too hard. Second go marginally better. Note to self - must remember to warm up core...and maybe actually do some training...
S - orienteering - a short but brutal course in the rain which somehow took me 100mins, mainly because I spent the first third bent double walking through tree branches, the second third running then getting a bit lost, and the final third trudging through heather and bilberry bushes. Felt totally and utterly wasted but amazing cheescake aided recovery
M - Malham again - warmed up on Rose, then had a warm up go and a good go on Tremalo. Got all the moves I think, though some bits I reckon I may need to work a better sequence. But need to get stronger and a lot lot fitter before I can seriously start getting on lead and redpointing it. Awesome moves though - project!!

Very proud of the boy for getting his first 7a tick (previous best 6b!) which means potentially more Malham time :D
Ali - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Wow, some serious hardcore trad going on there - good work!
Kevster - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

How do you fit life in? Lol.
That is serious dedication. But you reap the rewards too.
Just Tintin - on 07 May 2014
In reply to Kevster:

Thanks very much Kev- really helpful especially since I'm fairly new to this. I'm in Oxford during the week and quite often have to work weekends so it's a case of fitting things in but I shall aspire to the "obsessed" 100 sessions!

2012 75 routes in 10 sessions
2013 243 routes in 43 sessions
2014 172 routes/problems in 18 sessions

Last year I managed my first climbing holiday for a week in Wadi Rum - 6 sessions but that only represents about 8 long multipitch epic routes! This year I took up outdoor bouldering during the winter, so I'll have to keep an eye on the routes vs problems breakdown as that is probably a false indicator of volume vs previous years.

Goonie - on 07 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Ok another past poster here (we are all coming out of the woodwork) I have been very unstructured of late and need a kick up the backside and reading Kevster is back motivated me! While I have been away I have not been idle! Have managed a few trips and been doing some training but need more focus to break into the goals!

Recent positives: Sport 7c (Priapos in Kaly), onsight 7b in Kaly. Agee other 7b's and 7b+s, all the moves on 8a Angelika and tried Daniboy over two sessions!

Bouldering at Dumbarton Rock (Love this place) very close (overlapping 2 parts) on 7B Mestizo traverse! All the moves on 7B+ Consolidated! No ticks yet but vv close.

So goals well could I be put down for the 8a club please, any recommendations of one closeish to London that the wife and a little one can access and not disturb other crag users! Within 3ish hours! If not I will be going to France Dordogne for 3 weeks in August/sept anyone been any recomendations?? Barring that hopefully day trips somewhere, I have got on the Cider Soak before but it's a bit far! Also got on Entree at Two Tier but this felt desperate and not my style!

LTG (End 2014):
- 8a (route to be decided)
- 7B & 7B+ (Mestizo traverse and Consolidated)
- Front Lever hold 5 sec.
- 1 arm 1/2 crimp campus rung 1st joint for 5 sec.
- Complete 3 seasons focussed periodisation training.
- weight under 75kg

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
- trip to Dordogne 7c minimum!
- indoor V7
- try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
- Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
- Weight under 77kg by August trip.

STG (The coming week)
- Start back at conditioning focussing on gymnastic related core strength.
- begin strength phase in periodised program.
- maybe become a dad!!!! Or next week!

Last week:
M - ME wall session up to V6, Beastmaker first set of 7C workout! One arm pulls locks and negatives with 5kg resistance.
T- warm up V2-V4 30 probs, campus session on big rungs (not as bad as I thought it would be)
W- boulder ME mileage session working on weaknesses.
T- warm up V2-3 30 probs, campus better than last session and one arm lock lowers and then max throws! After this flashed a V6 recruitment bouldering for 30 mins!
F- Rest
S- the Roaches! Lovely day though a bit warm tried the big dyno again but same spot ( I suck at dyno's) need to work them more! Got on Mushin and nearly held the pod but later got better beta to go with the left hand off the undercuts! Moved onto the gutter and bottom moves felt easy but stupidly tried eliminating the obvious pocket on the face but later found out it is the pocket in the crack that wasn't in!! Dumb dumb!! Should go next time! Moves out of cave are solid and fun! After that mileage session up to 6C some amazing problems and had lots of fun running around!
Su- ME projecting but tired and bad skin, poor session

Weight this week at 81.5 kg need to get it down though I am not fat ??

Cheers all

Post edited at 13:18
Kevster - on 07 May 2014
In reply to Goonie:

G! Glad I motivated you, seems ages. Must catch up, you're beastly enough for your goals. You weigh so much because muscles are heavy. "Get weak, loose weight, climb harder"? Lol.
Humperdink - on 07 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> Humperdink - Watched the vid. Super fast. Kept expecting the guy who won to blow up but he didn't. You were in a white vest with stripes right? Looking at your watch a lot? Or blue shorts? Anyway well done on the PB. It was amazingly fast. Super effort there.

Thanks Matt - good guess but I was neither of those! (finished ahead of both of them). Our club colours are blue with white side panels and I was the slower of the two!

Felt shattered this week mainly because I did Tues/Thurs session.

M: lunchtime - 7/8M steady in 44:23
Tu: lunchtime - 5M easy in 34:17, pm Grass session 6x3min off 75 sec jog 8/9M total
W: Lunchtime - 8/9M steady in 55:06
Th: pm - Track session 8x400 off 60secs. Reps all 64's. 7M total
F: pm 8M steady in 52:21 felt really tired
Sa: Shattered! 8M easy in 56:21
Su: am - short session: 2M tempo @ 5:25miling then 6x30secs. 7/8M total

Off to the races again this evening so hope the wind dies down a bit!
Si Cox - on 08 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> Si Cox - wb matey. Onsight V5, but only climbing E1? Me thinks you need to up those grades a little. E4 is surely possible? Pick some well protected E2s and see how you go.

Well, I was probably going to say how things were going nicely, but as I was about to make an overhanging dynamic move from a two finger pocket on Monday, I heard an ominous 'pop' come from my left hand. I knew immediately what I had done - damaged a pulley (A2, I think) in my left ring finger.

Having read a few articles and posts on the internet, it seems it is not a rupture or too badly injured. However, it means a layoff from climbing for me for the foreseeable future.

Probably best, as I've been carrying quite a few niggles, and need to sort them out. Not very good at resting, which is probably similar to a lot of people on here. Just don't want to trash my hand indefinitely by being reckless with it.

In terms of Fit Club, I'm going to keep ticking over with managing my back pain, and perhaps see about some running or swimming in a week or so.

And, yes, there is a discrepancy between V5 and E1, but I've never managed to get a big enough run at trad to pick up the grades. It's a confidence thing with me and time on the rock. Until this injury, it's been the longest and most consistent period I've had indoors, and was feeling pretty good about my climbing.

Oh well. Let's see how it goes...
heelhookofglory - on 08 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Re-aligned goals (you were right, Matt) to be more suitable to current workload.

This Week:

Weight: 140 lbs

F: Intervals on bike
S: Session on Flowers. Still pinging off greasy hold
S: Session on Flowers plus 27.5km mountain bike

Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
-> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
Top 20% in category Summer Classic XC at Cannock on 1st June
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Lead Severe (Route TBD)
Hit the trails on the MTB when possible

MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate at Font 7A
Tick a Font 7B
JayK - on 08 May 2014
In reply to stevemarkperry:

What kind of 7B were you thinking? Roofy? Wally? Slabby? Gib Fin Sit or Milky Buttons are pretty awesome routes near you.
Ally Smith on 08 May 2014
In reply to Si Cox:

Finger pop doesn't mean no climbing; no climbing at all will probably mean you'll heal in a way that is bad for climbing in the long run (been there, done that).

Lower the grade, lower the angle, get in some mileage and if it's just a tweak then you should be building back up to your top grade in 6 weeks or so.

I'm two weeks into a finger tweak and operating at 85% intensity at the moment on my left hand. The only thing i'm completely avoiding is front 3 and middle 2 pockets as it puts an added strain on my injured ring finger.
biscuit - on 08 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

I'd second what Ally says.

Avoid pockets and I also found going too easy was bad indoors. The massive jugs you get on the easier routes pushed onto the sore pulley and really irritated it. I hurt it the other day pulling a wheelie bin because of that.

Make your own routes up and uae other holds to avoid tweaky ones.

Good luck !
Si Cox - on 08 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

OK, well that's encouraging. It seems that open-handed grip is OK, so I'll see about gently continuing with lower grade and angle stuff. Thanks for chipping in.
Si Cox - on 08 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for the feedback on easy jug routes. Will bear that in mind whilst keeping things ticking over. Good advice with making routes up too. Cheers.
Ally Smith on 08 May 2014
In reply to Si Cox:

Finger re-hab for me has been 100% outdoor climbing;
- doing some funky techy limestone groove - lower angle
- less intense, link-up style bouldering - bigger holds, no pockets
- getting back into trad this weekend - generally really big holds (Gurning on my new facebook profile pic may refute this!)
mattrm - on 08 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Goonie - you meant to say 'as you're doing the stat's, I'm going to join, right?' ;)

Kevster - wb matey

Ally - glad you like the detail. Effort on the E8.

Si -
biscuit - on 08 May 2014
In reply to Si Cox:

Again just to agree with Ally outdoors doesn't hurt my finger. Indoors wrecks it. On a course atm and have to climb indoors and it's really sore, even though it's easy climbing. Outdoors I'm pulling as hard as I ever have done.

Not sure why this is. Anyone any ideas ?
Goonie - on 08 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Oops sorry, can I join??? Plllleeeaaassseee!
heelhookofglory - on 09 May 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

Roofs suit my style so I'll probably seek one of those out. Either that or some technical and long traverse. It's a way off yet though
Humperdink - on 09 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

I'm going to need a pass for this week as I'm on holiday - back the following week.
Luke Owens - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Late update...

Monday: Hope Mountain with the little one. Tried the 6C+ Roof LH, forgot my beta and couldn't remember it. Repeated a 6B+ and 6C.

Evening: Nesscliffe, Got extremely close to Northumberland Wonderland (7A+) falling off the last move, really greasy conditions. Repeated the 6B+.

Tuesday: Repeated a 6B+, came close on a 7A and had a few goes on Pantys Down (7A+) going to stick at this one.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Nesscliffe, did Northumberland Wonderland. amazing feeling getting this, the topout is sketchy on your own with one pad and I fell off it the go before I did it. Video here: https://www.vimeo.com/93767597

Best problem I've ever done for sure! Worked the moves on the 7C traverse "Little Northumberland" also.

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Nesscliffe, back on the 7C can do all the moves apart from one and did a good link. Once the body position is sorted for the move I can't do it'll be on. Psyched!

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