UKC

NEWS: Ondra onsights Il Domani, 9a

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 UKC News 04 May 2014
Aam Ondra onsighting Il Domani, 9a, Baltzola, 5 kbAdam Ondra has onsighted Il Domani, 9a, in the Baltzola cave, Basque country.

The most impresive climbing I have ever seen! says Patxi Usobiaga who witnessed the ascent. Patxi should know what he is talking about having onsighted 8c+ himself.
It was also Patxi who mad the first ascent of this...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68899
 Wft 04 May 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Stunning, both the achievement and the cave. Hard to comprehend how hard it is, may aswell think about hard difficult it is to play golf on Mars.
In reply to UKC News:

Holy f*ck.
 Puppythedog 05 May 2014
In reply to UKC News:

And he's focussing on competitions this year. Could be interesting to see how he does with 9a onsight form.
Franz the Stampede 05 May 2014

More importantly, the "but what has he done on grit?" question has finally got an answer!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGnzI6WmsEg&feature=player_embedded

Messiah E7 OS
Master's Edge E7 OS
Balance It Is E7 OS
Post edited at 21:58
 Puppythedog 05 May 2014
In reply to Franz the Stampede:

Indeed, we have yet to see what he can do on Grit though He's such an impressive chap.
 mrchewy 05 May 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Nice to see Hubble still giving him a beating - fairplay to the lad tho, getting on it after just a couple of hours sleep.
 Puppythedog 05 May 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

Couple of hours sleep and apparently wet in places. I'd love to see him devote a bit of time to our best of everything (sport, trad and bouldering) but no reason why he should.
 GrahamD 06 May 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

I suspect its more British weather rather than Hubble which is beating him
 GeneralFifi 06 May 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Neil Gresham commented on fb that Adam did the crux of Hubble several times but couldn't finish it for it was wet..
In reply to GeneralFifi:

I don't think this is quite right - on the video doing the rounds Adam is shown repeatedly falling off the last hard move. Not too shabby for a few brief goes after a couple of hours sleep, mind you
Franz the Stampede 06 May 2014
I really appreciate the fact he's not afraid or ashamed in any way to show himself failing at something he's tried before and should supposedly be below his OS level. The same went with him slipping off 6A boulders in Font. #brave&humble ;D
In reply to Franz the Stampede:

>and should supposedly be below his OS level.

What, Hubble?! I don't reckon. Onsighting stamina routes is one thing; I think onsighting the likes of Hubble is a way off, though it's not wise to make too many predictions about the current crop of youngsters.

jcm
Franz the Stampede 07 May 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I said "supposedly". I'm the first one to think that no single route is a passe-partout of any given grade. In an ideal world, each grade should have some 3-5 "classic" routes of extremely different styles. Tick all of them in the same way (OS/flash/RP) and you can say you can really climb that grade in that way.

I wouldn't consider Megos and Ondra youngsters anymore. Sharma was the best performing sport climber at 20-21 too, so I guess we can all agree being 20 is a perfectly mature age for a climber.
If you were referring to the top climbers currently between age 12 and 15, I honestly doubt they'll end up being to Ondra/Megos what these two were to their previous generation.
Adam and Alex are already close to the limit of how much climbing and training you can cram into a growing child and they definitely rolled a 6 when it comes to factors such as advantageous body frame, parents into climbing, proximity to rock climbing spots etc.

Talking numbers, although I believe Adam has already "lost" the crown of youngest ever to RP 8c+ to Ashima (and might be the same for 9a), his OS record from age 10 to 14 is still in a league of its own compared to that of climbers currently between 10 and 14.
The recent preforming kids achieved their hard sends in typical kid friendly crags (Margalef, RRG) and in RP (i.e. might mean loads of beta or guiding from others, specifically set-up quickdraws to help height issues when clipping, you name it). But I really value Ondra's OS as a child as they happened consistently in different crags all over Europe, and with OS you are on your own by definition.

So no, I think you are right, I don't think we'll see anybody flashing/OSing Hubble ever, and definitely not anyone who can be rightfully called a youngster in the climbing world...
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