UKC

Hi. Whats the best rope ie single & length/diametre to use for 2 persons in a short roping situation on the Matterhorn Hornli ridge?? any info regarding the route, hints tips, start times etc involving the climb.

Is it a myth that guides have the right to start the ridge first or am i barking up the wrong tree??

what guide book can i find information on the Matterhorn.

And can any one recommend good acclimatization training for the hornli ridge, apart from the prep in the uk. in the past I've done Castor, Pollux, Breithorn etc but apart from breithorn traverse castor & pollux are not very technical.

any info will be welcomed

In reply to nation1:

Are you aware hut is closed for refurb this year?

In reply to nicmac:

yes i am fully aware, I will be going in 2015

In reply to nation1:

There was another thread a couple of weeks ago?

50M of 9mm or close, 30M would be lighter, but limits your absail options.

Have a look at the Rotgratt arête, AD+ similar length, easy approach, you can walk-off on summiting the Alphubel and its a good route in its own right.

In reply to nation1:

Martin Moran's guide '4000m Peaks in the Alps' is great and has some tips. 'Valais Alps West' published by the Alpine Club is the general area guide. Lots of routes in either of these can be used to help fitness / acclimatisation.
The Torino Hut near Mt Blanc has some great short and longer routes for practice. The Normal route on the Aiguille Peigne above Chamonix has similar sustained scrambling and fun route finding, or for an easier start the traverse of the Aiguille Crochues. Perhaps do a 4,000m peak or two before the Matterhorn.
Have a look at the guide websites such as Jagged Globe / Alpine Guides. Great for information.
For the route itself a standard dry treated 50m single rope is fine. You can do it with 40m to save some weight - if you have the luxury of having several different ropes.
I strongly recommend you reconnoitre the first part of the route the day before. Start as early as possible. One strategy is to follow straight after the guides as you can benefit from their route finding but should not be behind too many other parties.
My concern is that with no profile it is hard to judge what advice / suggestions to give you.

In reply to nation1:


40m lightweight single will get you down everything (20m raps).


Sort of barking up the wrong tree though they will certainly try to be out first. The problem is that if you start before them and get off route (which is pretty likely) then it can be dangerous for everyone else or yourselves (if you are too far right then you'll knock rocks down on folk, if you are too far left then they will knock rocks on you. If you're in the right place then this doesn't happen as it's quite solid. Best to let the guides go first and try to keep up with them). However, as someone else said, the hut is close this year so there'll certainly not be any Hornli hut jostling going on.

In reply to nicmac:


Sounds like the best year to get on it then