In reply to owensum:
Hi Owen, remember meeting in Bishop? Hope you're well.
I disagree with this myth that you can't hold an opinion on the grade until you've done a route. Looking at your profile for example, it says you've flashed v4 and worked v5. So if you tried a problem graded v4, but couldn't do it that day, you might blame the conditions, it not being your style, general ineptitude etc.. and not question the grade. Trying the same v4 for a second day though, a grade you have flash, and still failing on it, I think would be good grounds for suggesting an upgrade. What if you then went and tried this hypothetical v4 a dozen times without success, even though you had climbed harder grades faster? Sure, it might be down to a specific weakness / height / style issue , but unless you know something I don't, I think we should give the worlds best climber the benefit of the doubt that he would b sufficientlye self-aware of his climbing style to take account of this.