UKC

Caravanserai - Compass Point

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 Mark Kemball 18 May 2014
Sadly, this climb is no more - a rock-fall has removed the top half and the bottom half is now dangerously unstable. I'll post a link to a photo as soon as the mods approve it.
 alan moore 18 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Bit sad. I remember really enjoying that one....

 Skip 18 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Damn.
 jezb1 18 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

That's a shame, my girlfriend hated that climb though cos we misjudged the tides and she had to do the route wearing two rucksacks!
 oscaig 18 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Bugger! That was one on the hit-list for this summer for a relaxed sea-side day at Bude along with Sugar Magnolia. Have already done Tydomin, Westerlation and a few others so not sure if there's much of a quality VS-E1 day left there now Guess that's the Culm for you!

Ian
OP Mark Kemball 18 May 2014
In reply to oscaig:

If you go across the beach to Bude Pillars, Zinfandel is worth a climb.
 oscaig 18 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Cheers Mark - still worth at least a half day plus an ice cream and a wander round the *delights* of Bude then (PS - is there a decent pub in the town - have always been disappointed with the two along the front in the past?)

Ian
 Al Evans 19 May 2014
In reply to oscaig:

> Bugger! That was one on the hit-list for this summer for a relaxed sea-side day at Bude along with Sugar Magnolia. Have already done Tydomin, Westerlation and a few others so not sure if there's much of a quality VS-E1 day left there now Guess that's the Culm for you!

> Ian

Bude is worth a visit if just for Crimptython, soft touch E2, you could also do my route Yorkshire Pud VS , which Mick Fowler said of, 'it's rubbish' 'why' 'it's too solid'
 Al Evans 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Are any of the other adjacent routes affected? The top of Caravanserai has been unstable for years.
 Tom Valentine 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Very sad news. The most memorable cliff top belay I've eve.r used
 Cusco 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Wow. I only did this a month ago and whilst it fitted the guidebook description, it didnt seem like it was about to fall down.

Hopefully it wasn't exacerbated by my 'stocky' mate who led it as the first route of a great day there!
 alan moore 19 May 2014
In reply to Tom Valentine:

..because there wasn't one....?
 Tom Valentine 19 May 2014
In reply to alan moore:

Exactly. I just braced myself in a sort of ditch. Luckily my second was leading E3/4 at the time and wasn't rash in his movements.
OP Mark Kemball 19 May 2014
In reply to oscaig:

> (PS - is there a decent pub in the town - have always been disappointed with the two along the front in the past?)

I like "The Brendon Arms" - by the canal, next door to the Falcon hotel. Enjoyed a decent pint in there after climbing yesterday, they do good food too. Slightly further afield, The Preston Gate in Poughill (now a lively pub with new owners - it used to be dire) and both the Tree and the King's Arms in Stratton are all good.

OP Mark Kemball 19 May 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

> Are any of the other adjacent routes affected?

Easter Risings is also affected - may well have gone completely, I think Chicago is still more or less there. I'm still waiting for the mods to clear my photo - will post a link asap.
OP Mark Kemball 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=239718 - as you can see, the left side of the top crack has gone, the large blocks perched on the lower section don't look that secure either!
 AlanLittle 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Now it becomes clear. Crimtyphon is described as "one of the Culm Coast's enduring classics" because it's still there ...?
 ellis 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Another route, not so classic, that's changed it's character recently!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=238089
 alan moore 19 May 2014
In reply to Tom Valentine:

I was climbing on 2 x 9mm ropes and pulled the one through, then tied them together to reach a fence post. i think it's what the guide suggested: It's not a technique that i've had cause to use again...
 CurlyStevo 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:
I was there yesterday and it's not just rockfall and obvious instability but also a load of mud has been deposited all over the climb and ledges.

Also whats the belay like on Zinfandel - the guide mentions the need of a leader placed peg AND tieing down one of the lines on the other side of the pillar.
Post edited at 14:41
OP Mark Kemball 19 May 2014
In reply to CurlyStevo:

No need for a peg - just sort out some good belays on the beach at the back of the pillar before starting, lower a rope to belay off these and you can ab off them too.
 Sayon 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

We were there yesterday too- some nasty-looking large blocks and mud covered ledges on what remains of Caravanserai. at a guess, its a chunk of rock 40' x 20' x 4' thick thats gone.
I think the biggest danger is now the path along the top of the ridge, as it is now an undercut cornice above where Caravanserai used to be.
 Iain Peters 19 May 2014
In reply to Mark Kemball:

I guess I'm not really surprised. When I first did it just after the FA the crack was definitely not so wide as of recent.... I just hope Matchless at Oldwalls hasn't gone the same way. The "pancake" ledge was a good 3 metres in from the right arete on the FA.
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