UKC

In the Mammut Rock Climbing Classics series, it's now time to take a look at Wolfgang Güllich's über classic Action directe, 9a, first climbed way back in 1991.
Jan Hojer, who repeated the route four years ago when he was 18 shows us how it's done.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68938

In reply to UKC News:

Great vid thanks.Has anyone from the uk repeated it??

In reply to slinky wizard:

Rich Simpson...? Worms. Can. EXPLOSION.

In reply to UKC News:

That's the on-sight blown for me!

On the plus side, I reckon I can get two fingers in those pockets.

The shots from above make it look reasonable. Then you see it from the side...

In reply to UKC News:

'Reclimbed' is a strange choice of words. It smacks of 'a few holds have fallen off but someone has now managed the new version'?

'Repeated', surely?

In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant - but ouch!


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Agree - those pockets look cruel beyond belief. But I guess that's what it took...

Mick

In reply to andyathome:

Hard to get the right words. Obviously it's been repeated, over the years. I guess the connotation is 'revisited'.

But the climbing speaks for itself. And, even though I can't understand a word of the conversation, the respect and the sense of care come across so strongly. In the end, that's what matters most - that we care about a route which 99% of us will never do, that we care because, way back, Wolfgang Gullich gave what it took, went out and showed the world what was possible.

This series is a brilliant idea...

And we've still got Jerry to come! < Coughs discreetly. Reaches for more ice-cream... >

Mick

In reply to UKC News:

Does anyone bother with that top clip these days?!

jcm

In reply to Mick Ward:

Mick, if you watch the video on Youtube, you can turn English subtitles on at the bottom of the video.

In reply to Dennis999:

Brilliant - many thanks!

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:


And Sean Mccoll on Hubble!

In reply to UKC News:

Drool............make my ideal climbing partner ( in my dreams).