UKC

Right,

So I'm building up my first rack and looking to buy some cams. Can probably only afford 3 at this point and am looking at c4 camalots. What would be a good selection of sizes to start with? Looking to compliment a full set of nuts and a set of hexes.

In reply to J_Trottet:
I'd try stretch to 4 if you could (0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2) I think those would cover you really well up HVS/E1 where you might want to start filling in lower sizes with a dedicated micro cam and maybe get a size 3 aswell.

edit - forgot to say, it probably depends a lot on where you climb. I found the above good for general Scottish cragging and multi pitch (looking at your logbook I guess this may be the same for you).

In reply to CMcBain:

I kind of agree. I think sizes between 0.5 and 3 would see most use generally, depends a bit on where you'll be climbing. I've been climbing on gritstone mostly this year so my opinion is biased towards that.

In reply to CMcBain:

I use my 3 a lot. I even carry my 4 a lot these days and more often than not I place it. It also helps to keep me fit.

In reply to J_Trottet:

I'm not sure how the sizes relate between DMM 4CUs and BD camalots, but I've got 4CUs 1, 2, 3 and 4, and these relate perfectly to my finger sizes, i.e. a number 1 4cu is the same width as my index finger, a number 2 is the same as two fingers etc. So when I'm eyeing up a cam placement I can judge the size of cam needed based on the size of the crack in finger widths. Quite handy (pun intended) when you're a beginner.

In reply to RyanOsborne:

I would struggle to just pick 3 for everything, but as others have said, .75, 1, 2, &3 should see you right for most things.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I agree regarding the size 3, much to my climbing partners chagrin I take a size 3 on most multi-pitch routes and use it fairly frequently. Ideally, i'd suggest the OP saved up and bought 5 (0.5, 0.75, 1, 2 and 3). I couldn't bring myself to suggest just 3 and miss out the size 0.5 (It's probably the bit of gear i've had the most 'thank god' placements with)!

I think all of my size 4 placements have been more a case of 'I can't be bothered carrying this anymore' rather than actually being all that useful! Although it's nice to have for those worrying routes that say 'large friend essential'.

In reply to CMcBain:

It's never nice to feel too heavy, but sometimes I think it's a bit psychological. When you consider your own weight, fully clothed with a rack on, does adding a couple of hundred grams make any real difference?

I know you could use that logic to add gear ad infinitum, but if I didn't use it so much, I'd quickly stop taking it.

In reply to J_Trottet:
Thanks for the responses guys. Unfortunately already spreading myself a bit thin with 3 cams.... How far would a 0.75, 1 and 2 get me? I'll try and add the 0.5 and 3 in the coming months when the bank balance has improved....

In reply to J_Trottet:

I was in a similar situation, and spent a long time looking at people's blogs and recommendations and cam size comparison charts and eventually decided on Dragons 2, 3, 4 with an aim to add 1 and 5 in the near future. These very closely correspond to C4 0.75, 1, 2 (and are even the same colours, what a strange coincidence). So we seem to have come up with the same idea independently.

Was it the right decision? Dunno, I got them yesterday.

In reply to J_Trottet:

If cost is an issue, why not buy something other than Camalots? You could get 5 4CUs for the same price as 3 Camalot C4s, and, while they are, admittedly, not as nice to handle, they do the same job - and if you're just starting out you won't really notice the difference anyway.

In reply to J_Trottet:

I'd get purple, green, red and gold.

If I had to get just 3 I'd get purple, green and gold and get a Red rockcentric or Torque nut fill the gap.

Joe brown do 4 DMM Dragon Cams for £160: http://www.joe-brown.com/custombuilder.aspx?id=15549

Or

4 BD Camalots for £180: http://www.joe-brown.com/advancedsearch.aspx?Term=camalot

I would buy 4cus to save a few quid as they aren't as good and you will only regret it later.

In reply to J_Trottet:

I'd get purple, green, red and gold.

If I had to get just 3 I'd get purple, green and gold and get a Red rockcentric or Torque nut fill the gap.

Joe brown do 4 DMM Dragon Cams for £160: http://www.joe-brown.com/custombuilder.aspx?id=15549

Or

4 BD Camalots for £180: http://www.joe-brown.com/advancedsearch.aspx?Term=camalot

I would buy 4cus to save a few quid as they aren't as good and you will only regret it later.

In reply to J_Trottet:

Red camalot (1) got the most usage, until I got a red totem! Better cam IMHO.

Gold (2) probably second most usage.

In reply to J_Trottet:

0.5, 1 and 2 are the most used on my rack.

In reply to J_Trottet:

Thanks for the advice guys.