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Scarpa Rebel LIte and G12's

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 ablackett 02 Jun 2014
I am planning a trip to the alps this summer climbing up to AD+, aiming for the Weisshorn, http://www.summitpost.org/weisshorn/150253

I am thinking about getting a pair of Scarpa Rebel Lite GTX and using them instead of the Nepal Extremes as I hope they will be much less tiring to walk in (saving 700g per pair).http://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain/rebel-lite-gtx/

They do seem quite flexible, even compared to other B2's such as the Mantas, has anyone used them for AD alpine climbing?

They reckon they are a C2 boot, but suggests a C1 crampon, so does anyone know if my Grivel G12's will fit them ok? Or would I need to get a flex bar?
 LJ2606 02 Jun 2014
In reply to ablackett:

Hi I've got the Rebel Lites and use G12s with them. I find they work great together although I have done anything more technical than the CMD arete on the Ben in them. I was unsure about buying the Rebel Lites, but I certainly don't regret it, I love them, very comfortable, great for scrambling, C2 rated and are very light.
 BnB 02 Jun 2014
In reply to ablackett:

My Airtechs fit the Rebel Lites after swapping to a flex bar. And very comfy they are too. Only climbed grade IIish however so can't comment on suitability beyond easy moves.
 PN82 04 Jun 2014
In reply to ablackett:
I have used my G14's (plastic toe clip model) with my Rebel lites with both a flex bar and standard steel bar and they fit fine.

I have never had any issues on steep slopes and the odd bit of toe pointing; i prefer to use them with a flex bar to match the flex in the boot. You can use them with a steel bar, the airtech model is the best fit crampon for this boot.

Given the choice for alpine routes above the snowline then i would not use my rebel lites and I would use my scarpa freney xt. The extra insulation in the freney xt is needed for standing around on belays (rebel lites have little insulation), also the extra stiffness for AD routes means i have less boot flex and heel lift so is physically less demanding on any climbing sections where you are using the 2 front points. Also walking in on snow, then a stiffer, heavier boot doesn't actually feel too bad, if the walk in is on rock or paths then you notice the extra weight and stiffness.

I personally would go for something a bit stiffer and warmer than the rebel lites for alpine, however if you want to use your boots in the uk all year round then the rebel lites are fine.
I do regret getting the rebel lites as a replacement for my worn out la sportiva evo s, the la sportivas are a much better boot in my opinion. If you already have the nepals then look at the trango alpine or evo s.

Just my 2 cents anyhoo
Post edited at 14:46

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