UKC

NEWS: THIS WEEKEND: Shauna to Defend IFSC Top Spot in China

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 UKC News 20 Jun 2014
Shauna Coxsey about to make the final move to finish problem 4 and win a gold medal, 3 kbThis weekend (20th and 21st June 2014) will see the seventh round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Haiyang, China.

This is the first time all three IFSC disciplines; Boulder, Lead and Speed, will be competing together...



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68989
 JLS 20 Jun 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Anyone know the maths of the point system?

With Akiyo Noguchi seemingly currently in unstoppable form how likely is it that Shauna can hold her off. Would two more second places for Shauna be enough or does Noguchi need to slip up?

This and one other round to go, right?

In reply to JLS:

You can drop one score so effectively Shauna is 15 points ahead of Akiyo.

100 points for 1st place, then 80, 65, 55, 51, 47 so Shauna needs to beat Akiyo in one of the remaining 2 events, unless they both have bad results.
 JLS 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Graeme Alderson:
Cheers.

I've been enjoying watching the comps online. Happy to see a Brit winning but I can't quite bring myself to *not* support any of the other competitors. I just like watching the fantastic bits of climbing from whoever is on the wall.
Post edited at 12:32
In reply to JLS:

I've been at every event apart from the current one, it is a real privilege to watch
 Quiddity 20 Jun 2014
In reply to JLS:

The calculation is here:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=ranking&...

I worked out some permutations but Graham has expressed it much more concisely.
 JLS 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Do you know if Shauna had a particular injury at Vail that caused the slight drop in her good form?

Did it look like climbers that had had a chance to acclimatise to the altitude faired better? Were all the main contenders in the same boat as far as acclimatisation time was concerned?
 Sherlock 20 Jun 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Never previously been interested in comps but this World Cup has really gripped my sh*t.
It's a shame that the British comp. is on at the same time ,I'll be going cross-eyed switching channels...
Agree 100% with all that JLS said and thanks for the scoring pointers Graeme, I was a bit lost at times
 JLS 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Sherlock:

Just incase you've not seen it.

This is nice...
vimeo.com/97778435
In reply to JLS:

> Do you know if Shauna had a particular injury at Vail that caused the slight drop in her good form?

Problem with her right knee

> Did it look like climbers that had had a chance to acclimatise to the altitude faired better? Were all the main contenders in the same boat as far as acclimatisation time was concerned?

Nearly everyone was on the same plane from Toronto to Denver and most went up to Vail on the Wednesday.

I suspect that fatigue was also kicking in, 6 comps in 7 weeks took it out of me and I wasn't competing. Just wondering whether Akiyo only travelling west helped her on the jet lag front

 JLS 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Cheers.
 Sherlock 20 Jun 2014
In reply to JLS:

No,I'd not seen that.Thanks a lot.
 Sherlock 20 Jun 2014
In reply to UKC News:

OK Graeme,think I get it now.If Shauna beats Costa Rica and Anna loses to Japan will we win on goal difference?

<stubs spliff out and leaves room>

 JLS 23 Jun 2014
In reply to UKC News:

So... Akiyo Noguchi now five points ahead of Shauna Coxsy with one round to go.

I couldn't find links to the usual replay video. Pressumably some sort of internet logistics problem with the event being in China.
In reply to JLS:

The replays for Chongqing only went up after the 247.tv crew got back home - the internet in the hotel was painfully slow and as often as not the temporary network set up for the webcast disappears straight after the event

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