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 Jackwd 20 Jun 2014
Looking for some suggestions of a crag in the Peak preferably grit suitable for me to take a couple of new to climbing friends to. One of them has sport climbing experience indoors and out the other has no experience at all. Stanage is the obvious one but what are the others? Trying to really encourage the other to take up the sport.
 Ben07 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Jackwd:

Burbage iis perfect I'd say. Nice routes and bouldering. And in a nice setting. Sorted!
 gribble 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Jackwd:

Curbar is always a winner. Easy parking with ice cream van and no queueing at many of the buttresses. And a commendable range of styles available.
 GrahamUney 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Jackwd:

Possibly the best bet is Birchen. Short walk in, lots of low grade routes, easy anchors for belays, pub and campsite beneath. What more could you need? Oh, and the climbing's brilliant too!
 deacondeacon 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Jackwd:

Hi Jack. Wait for the wind to change direction if your heading to Eastern Grit. It's a northerly at the minute and the midgies will put them off climbing for life.
In reply to GrahamUney:

+1

Birchen couldn't be faulted as a crag for both: if your indoor climbing friend wants a challenge, sling a rope down Peaches or Gritstone Megamix. For the newbie, everything else. A great venue, full stop.

Martin
 climbwhenready 21 Jun 2014
In reply to gribble:

> Curbar is always a winner. Easy parking with ice cream van and no queueing at many of the buttresses. And a commendable range of styles available.

For beginners?
 climbwhenready 21 Jun 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Hi Jack. Wait for the wind to change direction if your heading to Eastern Grit. It's a northerly at the minute and the midgies will put them off climbing for life.

(mini thread hijack)

Is there a midge rule of thumb? I'm going to Eastern grit next weekend, and although I'm committed, is there a way of midge forecasting? And are some edges less midgey than others?

Sorry for midge-whinging.
In reply to climbwhenready:

I went recently for the first time and was cursing gritstone midges all day long. My advice would be to take a headnet, belay gloves and long trousers. Otherwise be prepared to have thousands swarming around your face on every belay. Definitely gave me incentive to get to the top!
 deacondeacon 21 Jun 2014
In reply to climbwhenready:

You want at least a 5mph southerly or westerly forecast for the majority of the grit edges. There are a few exceptions like getting onto something north facing with a northerly breeze (Eastern grit is pretty poor for this). I'd recommend going to a crag of choice first, seeing what they're like and if it's bad head onto the limestone.
 mrdigitaljedi 21 Jun 2014
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Avon`s skin so soft dry oil spray £2.49 150ml bottle cant go wrong...
 Paul Hy 21 Jun 2014
In reply to Jackwd:

Windgather is a bit further West but great for beginners.
 woodsy 16 Jul 2014
In reply to Jackwd:

Rob's Rocks in Chew Valley is a great beginners crag & being quite high & exposed, often enough of a breeze to keep the midgies away.
 mrgleb 16 Jul 2014
In reply to mrdigitaljedi:

I gave Skin So Soft a try on a recent trip to the Langdale Pikes and I still got savaged,They must have adapted and evolved...At least they were only at the campsite and not on the crags ! I Must try Agent Orange next time : )
 mrdigitaljedi 16 Jul 2014
In reply to mrgleb:

unlucky m8 i wont go climbing without it.
 1poundSOCKS 16 Jul 2014
In reply to mrgleb:

I've only used Smidge once, up at Pavey Ark, and it worked a treat. Only a couple of bites on my ankle, normally I'm covered in them.
 Offwidth 18 Jul 2014
In reply to maisie:

-1 Birchen is a good crag with plenty in the lower grades but not ideal for newbies as the problems have hard starts and the holds are often sloping and can feel greasy on humid days Some belays are a little tricky. Nothing stops top-ropes on gritstone megamix and peaches other than the massive karma hit.

My suggestion would be Wharncliffe.
 RankAmateur 18 Jul 2014
In reply to Jackwd:

Windgather Rocks near Whaley Bridge.
Easy access (short walk in from the road)
Wide range of routes, but many many easier grades
Fantastic rock, featuring many starred climbs
Faces west, so gets the evening sun. Perfect for after work
Well documented in Western Grit
Lovely view

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