UKC

I'm really pleased to hear that my recent addition 'The Desolation of Smaug!) in Twll Mawr http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=316559 is being enjoyed. It looks like all the hard work bolting it was worthwhile, and it's getting the attention it deserves, it's also been great to read about some of the ascents on various blogs...

http://shoreditchclimber.tumblr.com/

http://stefanandcherry.com/2014/05/09/more-in-the-mawr/

A number of climbers have contacted me through UKC to find out how to access Twll Mawr....

With a spare rope it's possible to abseil in from the top of 'Supermassive Black Hole' (Bolt, Thread and Fence?)This is just over the fence from the Bus Stop - Nant Peris track. Bolt and thread can be found on the right hand side of the obvious central fin adjacent to the fence.

To access Twll Mawr on foot, walk from Bus Stop Quarry car park along the track until it dips down next to Dali's Hole and the 2 gates, hop over the gate on the right as if heading downhill towards the Rainbow Slab. Very soon and after descending just a few metres a flat area / plateau on the left can be seen. Follow this level which leads directly under the 'Peregrine Walls'. A round blast shelter and 2 mounds of slate rubble mark the way. When some large Boulders and a leaning ruined shelter are reached another flat area opens up with the Golgotha Slab behind. The Twll Mawr access tunnel can be found less than 50 metres away from these Boulders.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

One comment I'd make about the Ground Up slate guide is that, while it is generally excellent, it is not that good for finding your way around for first timers who don't already know where everything is. It essentially has one map, which is repeated several times but is not that helpful for many of the obscure places, and getting to Twll Mawr is an example of the sort of thing it doesn't explain well. Or is that part of the charm of the place, that it is a local place for local people?

In reply to Coel Hellier:


Good that it exactly what we want...less traffic from those that don't know how to keep themselves safe in the quarries.

It is private land after all.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Some useful points about the ab in.
1. The thread is a drilled thread down and left of the bolt just above the ground, not the jammed flakey block in the crack above and left
2. An 80m rope gets you to the bottom easily. I think a 70m on stretch would also do it, but I haven't tried it (usual disclaimer etc).
Excellent routes by Ian btw.

cheers
Graham

In reply to Luk e:



I was climbing in the slate quarries in the early 90's. How would you have felt if I'd made those comments about you when you first started?

In reply to Graham Hoey:

Glad you enjoyed the routes, will put a better description of how to approach Twll Mawr on the database so thanks for your comments re locating bolt and thread.

Worth mentioning that the top pitches of 'Supermassive Black Hole' are 50m in total, with the bottom pitch being another 25m. When abseiling in it's possible to just abb the first 50m and then walk round via the tunnel & terrace.

Worth mentioning that the length of pitch 2 on 'The Desolation of Smaug' is closer to 35m than the original 30m given, makes a difference when retreating / abbing off pitch 2 with a single 60m rope. I've updated the route description on here.