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NEW ARTICLE: Wild Country's 'Learn to Lead' Part 5

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 UKC Articles 07 Jul 2014
Screengrab 1, 3 kbIn this series of videos, Wild Country sponsored climber and MIA Katherine Schirrmacher explains the skills needed to make your first steps into outdoor climbing.

In the fifth and final episode, Katherine talks you through your first lead and gives some handy tips to help you out of trouble or stop you getting into it in the first place!



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6478
 Ciderslider 07 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really good series of videos - really nice route Heather Wall
 1poundSOCKS 07 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Always use the rope loop to belay for trad? She doesn't say why.

Why use a screwgate on a sling when you wouldn't on a quickdraw? Higher chance of gate loading or unclipping maybe.
 AlH 08 Jul 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> Always use the rope loop to belay for trad? She doesn't say why.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1129
 climbwhenready 08 Jul 2014
In reply to AlH:

But there's no anchor.....
 JamPlastick 08 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

At a place like stanage with a big area to walk around on top, shout safe before you build your anchor and it will save lots of time. Its a calculated risk like any other part of climbing.
 1poundSOCKS 08 Jul 2014
In reply to climbwhenready:

Exactly, belaying on the ground, no anchor, does it matter?
 AlH 08 Jul 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
At the end if the day no it probably doesn't matter for someone experienced enough to make the judgement. There will be a little shock absorption in the knot tightening in the event of a fall but probably not a critical amount. But if this is 'first steps into leading' teaching 1 system that does all situations makes it easier for novices to remember and there is no reason not to.
 wynaptomos 08 Jul 2014
In reply to icklejason:

You may want to bear in mind that the title of this thread is "Learn to Lead" not "Learn to cut corners and climb faster".

Better to learn the basics first which means following the "rules". There are things that can go wrong after topping out - always best to tie in before shouting safe.
 1poundSOCKS 08 Jul 2014
In reply to AlH:

So no real reason then, if you know what you're doing.

Whatabout the screwgate on the sling? I use snaps on slings.
 michaelja 08 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:
Nice video. But a remark.
It's advised in the video to belay on the ropeloop. That advise you will probably never hear in the rest of Europe. I don't mind that, but would not do it when using a bowline. Pulling the loop from the bowline might result in opening the knot! (The chance that occuring will be allmost zero when you make a backup knot.)
Post edited at 17:35
 AlH 08 Jul 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

You can make an informed judgement of course but given at every point on a route (top and intermediate stances) I'll probably go off the rope loop and the fact that I'll tend to tie on before partner leaves the ground why wouldn't I always go off the rope loop so it's never a consideration?
On the sling screw gate or snap gate depends what's handy and what I have lots of, multi pitch or single nothing wrong with a snap gate on a sling in most cases IMHO.
 JamPlastick 09 Jul 2014
In reply to wynaptomos:

Lets hope the next episode is about how to descend after the climb then because most of the time that is far more dangerous.
 BarrySW19 20 Aug 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

It might be worth pointing out that a VS would probably not be a good choice for a first lead for most climbers.
 1poundSOCKS 20 Aug 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

But if we don't point it out, we might eliminate the really stupid ones before they can hurt anybody else.

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