UKC

Devon climbing

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Andrew74 10 Jul 2014
Looking to go climbing at Baggy Point over the summer. Which of the guidebooks is best? Also any route suggestions and general local informamtion I should know?
 jayjackson 11 Jul 2014
In reply to Andrew74:



CC guide (2000 N. Devon and Cornwall) gives you all the routes, West Country Climbs from Rockfax (2010) gives a selection, but the new CC guide, South West Climbs, volume II is the most recently published (2014) and combines a good selection of routes with good photo-topos.

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/south-west-climbs-volume-ii/

Check the BMC RAD as certain areas are restricted, although these are often lifted if rare birds don't nest - most up to date info from the link below.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=508

Lots of the N Devon and Cornwall Coast suffered in the 2013/24 winter storms, not heard of any issues at Baggy, but won't hurt to check the UKC logbook entries in case someone has mentioned a missing bit of cliff...

Some of the harder and less travelled routes on the Long Rock have a very well developed lichenous covering.

The top 3rd of most of the routes on the Promontory inland from Kinkyboots are generally easy, vegetated, loose and poorly protected - often quite serious even if well within your grade.

It's worth considering just how far back the stakes on the Promontory are if you intend to lead the bigger slab routes in one pitch - it's also worth having a good look for the stakes before you top out so you don't have to scrabble around on the steep grass at the top of the pitch looking for them whilst your belayer starts solo-ing to give you a little more rope.

The delightful slab with Ben, Marion etc on becomes distinctly less so when hordes of climbers and/or walkers carelessly kick the loose stuff at the top down on you - if it's busy, avoid this bit.

Bring micro-wires.

Make sure you can place micro-wires well...

Approach to the Long Rock is technically easy but serious.

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