In reply to climbwhenready:
> It sounds like it actually allows limited rope slip. When you look at this, the alpine-up, what the DMM grip turns out to be, we could be seeing the start of the end of non-assisted devices - when someone makes a device that you belay like an ATC, works with double ropes, and autolocks with limited rope slip to manage the impact, and is light, why would you not use it?
> I think in 15 years time if you turn up at a wall with an ATC you'll be looked at in amazement and told you're gonna die.
Well the ATC has been going strong for the past decades (particularly in it´s XP guise) and I doubt that will change, a lot of climbers don´t want a device that locks up and is light, easy to use and versatile.
I´m testing all of the modern generation at the moment and weak performance with thin ropes is a notable feature for most of them, at the end of the day if your priority is stopping big falls then the ATC XP is still the beast of choice. If single-pitch cragging is your thing then the sort-of assisted braking devices are o.k. but so is most everything anyway.