UKC

Next weekend a mate and I have a three day slot Thurs night through to sun - if the weather plays ball was thinking about a change from the Peak and maybe heading up to Wales - I was thinking about getting two of my dream (excuse the pun) ticks done - Any advice please about the logistics of getting these two iconic routes done over a weekend - best places to stay (camping) pubs etc
also any other pearls of wisdom
Also how far is holyhead from Llanberis - and is Tremadog far away - maybe for a light climb on sun b4 heading back.

In reply to Ciderslider:

assuming your heading back to England? tremadog isn't really on the way back, but its only about half hour/45 mins from llanberis area. gogarth is a similar ball park driving time I think.

the two campsites in Nant peris are cheep and cheerfull plus opposite the vaynol arms which is a brilliant traditional pub, and if your keen you can walk to dinas cromlech from there which saves fighting over car parking spaces.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Start early and you could do both (DOWH/CG) in a day,leaving two days for other dream routes.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Think it's about 40 minutes from Llanberis to Gogarth. If none have you have been to Gogarth before, allow a lot of time for a route like Dream; also you'd be better off doing it on a week day as Wen Zawn can get congested.

There's a nice quiet campsite on the road up to the South Stack cafe (but they charge by the tent rather than person so if you're not sharing it's expensive). Or you can contact these guys in advance and arrange to camp

http://www.outdooralternative.co.uk/

In reply to Jon Stewart:

so maybe dream on fri then jon - and take our chances in the pass on sat ?

In reply to Ciderslider:

not sure either routes have a stair lift/ access for the elderly- you might want to see if the old folks home will provide some binoculars so that you can have a look at them from the back of the invalid carriage.

In reply to Ciderslider:

That'd be my preference if I really wanted to do Dream as top priority. Of course you might get better value from the trip if you go where the weather is better and are more flexible on what routes you do - there are other great HVSs at Gogarth that aren't super popular traverses e.g. Scavenger (tidal).

The forecast's not amazing at the moment, bear in mind that the Pass is much much more likely to be wet than Gogarth. But the consequences of rain on a multipitch route at Gogarth can be more serious - abseiling off could end up being a bit wetter than the rain if you catch my drift.

In reply to Ciderslider:

DOWH always seems to have a queue in the morning but seems to be usually free in the afternoon. You need to get to the pass early for a parking place. So Gates in morning DOWH in afternoon. If you have a day at each then accompany The Gates with Diagonal on Dinas Mot ant DOWH with Concrete Chimney; both arguably better routes than your headline choices

In reply to kevin stephens:

What Kevin said- Dream is a better option late afternoon/early evening.

In reply to Ciderslider:

The weather is likely to be more consistent for DOWH so if there looks to be a weather window in the pass - take it !

It's an easy drive between the two locations thanks to the A55

In reply to Ciderslider:

I did Cemetery Gates a few years ago on a weekend, but we were at the base of the crag just after sunrise, so had the Cromlech to ourselves.

People were only just arriving as we walked back down the hill. Why not do a couple of routes there and head off to Gogarth in the afternoon?

The drive back south from Tremadoc is a bit of a ball-ache. It's very much cross-country and you WILL get stuck behind caravans. One of the most frustrating drives in the UK. After the last trip I swore I'd never go to Wales for a weekend ever again!

In reply to Ciderslider:


You lucky, lucky bastard! Enjoy!

In reply to steve taylor:

Exactly. If you're up at the Cromlech chuck in a quickie up Flying Buttress, Dives/Better Things or maybe the corner if you're going well.

In reply to steve taylor:


If no one in the party has been to the crags before, I bet my bottom that this will not happen whatever then intention!

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Fair point - I've been to the Cromlech several times and we were only going there for my partner to settle an old score after taking a lob on the Gates 20 years previously. We went bouldering at Porth Ysgo in the afternoon after doing the Gates - one of my favourite day's climbing in recent times.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Check out Anglesey adventure campsite as it is cheap and they have a bar called the 'paddlers return' which does great food and usually stays open late!,and your ten minutes from breakwater park.
They do prefer you to book in advance but we have just turned up before and put the tents up.
Also worth checking the BBC tide table site if your doing Dream from the bottom pitch.

In reply to jimxxx:


Agreed. Excellent and cheap, not forgetting the bar does food (opens at 7pm I think). Same price as the Llanberis ones and proper facilities.

I would leave a long time to get 'Dream...' finished, but leaving it 'till the afternoon is good shout at this time of the year. Remember, even when it is hot, the wind can make it cold.

If the weather is good, stay in the pass or Ogwen on your easier day as Tremadog will be there next time for when the mountains are in the cloud. Check out Clogwyn y Grochan for classic HVS and VS multipitch routes. If it's dry at Dinas Mot, get on one of the wonderful routes there. Whatever grade, they are all classic.

Remember Anglesea has its own climate, so if the mountains are horrid, Gogarth can still be beautiful

In reply to Ciderslider:

If it is your first visit, allow plenty of time to locate and access Wen Zawn.

Combining DOWH and Concrete Chimney in a day would be a good idea. CC is a better route IMO. Don't bother with Wen, inferior in comparison. Britomartis could also be combined for a 9 star HVS hatrick.

Take lots of slings/extendables for DOWH.

In reply to Ciderslider:

When you've done dream, which is ace, get on britomartis, you'd love p1 of that.

Some quality routes on the Cromlech (obviously!) to warm up on, something like Noah's Warning.

Hope the weathers kind to you.

Hi all,
Was wondering if anyone could give us any advice on getting to the bottom of pitch 1 of Dream, the low tide start, and how long the abseil would be?
Cheers!

In reply to Go_Climb_A_Rock:

You scramble down to the notch on the ridge which you can see from the promontory on the opposite side, where you can see all of wen slab. Abseil is about 150ft. Its the same starting point if the tide is in.

In reply to richparry:

I thought one should jump over the boulders after abseiling from the promontory at low tide. I haven't done it, but I thought that right down to the sea was more than 60m.

I've been there twice and I'd love to get that first pitch done

In reply to Cake:

You can if the tide is low. If you ab off the big block at the top of the promontory you can still reach the bottom on a 50.

In reply to tom84:

You're so funny m8, now put the sharp crayons down and do as the psychiatric nurse tell you - and don't forget to take all your meds.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Did it get led?

In reply to Ciderslider:

Did you know the iconic wave on Dream' was a fake.....
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153002540949867&set=a.1015244...

jb.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Assuming weather is same (can be very different between the two areas):
- do Pass on Friday to save some parking nightmares. Do Diagonal; Cemetary gates and the why not Cenotaph (not really that much harder that CG if you can bridge well and LOADS of gear; keep a 2.5(?) friend for the hard bit at the top) or chill on Flying Buttress or go back over for Main Wall.
- Kip at Nant Peris campsite
- Go to Gogarth Saturday and time tides to do DOWH from bottom. Do Wen to get comfortable and Concrete Chimney for a brilliant three-set.
- Drive back to campsite to kip
- Sunday go to Ogwen and do an enchainment, finishing on Grey arete.

Go home in bliss!