UKC

NEWS: John McCune Climbs Ireland's Ultimate Granite Wall

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 UKC News 17 Jul 2014
John McCune high on the perfect granite of the upper wall of The Second Coming (E7 6b). , 4 kbThe 'Holy Jesus Wall' is aptly named. Hidden away on the coast of the tiny island of Owey in Donegal and known to but a few local trad climbers, this immaculate shield of red-golden granite has at long last been climbed...

"...After a long while fighting to stay attached to the wall, the pump got the better of me and I couldn't hold on any longer. I peeled off. Even with a cam placed at my waist I flew a long way. I would fall again before I topped out, the second time much further with a hold snapping off in my hand..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69048

 Wft 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

absolutely stunning bit of rock, well done John and co.
In reply to UKC News:

What a bit of rock! Brilliant!

Dunc
 ericinbristol 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Wow! Stunning place! I can imagine that will get some more visits now (by people a lot stronger than me)
 ericinbristol 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

And multiple possible Photo of Week shots too
 Andy Moles 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

That's the kind of wall that makes you want to get better at climbing!
 mark20 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Stunning. Great work John and team.
Makes you wonder how many more unclimbed sea cliffs there must be around Ireland
 Dom Whillans 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

holy jesus indeed! bloody well done.
 lummox 17 Jul 2014
In reply to Dom Whillans:

Feck me.
 Greenbanks 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Great news item - about a place which is both relatively accessible and yet gives a complete wilderness experience. I agree with the comments about the photos - they really do convey a sense of scale and isolation. I'll also bet that this is a mean place when there's a big sea running
 jon 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:
Fabulous! So, are there any other routes on the wall or are these the first two? There are certainly other fantastic lines. And what about the rock around to the left of the gold wall. When you say 'known to but a few local trad climbers' does this mean that there are other routes on the island or simply that other climbers have been aware of the existence of the crag?
Edit: Hmmm, if I'd looked at the blog first...
Post edited at 11:16
 Dave Flanagan 17 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:

There a good few other routes on the island but the recent development has taken it up a gear in terms of difficulty. The rock seems to be better on these newer routes.

http://www.colmcilleclimbers.com/dynamic/guidebook/route_list.php?crag_no=6...
xyz 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

WOW! that's got to be one of the best looking bits of rock that I've never heard of ever and its almost on home turf!
In reply to UKC News:

If ever a picture inspired you to go climbing thats it.
Great effort!!
John Dunne 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Wow how do you get to the Island
 jon 17 Jul 2014
In reply to xyz:

Yeah, must say though if I'd found it I wouldn't have told a soul!
 SteveSBlake 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Superb, quite remarkable it's so close!

Steve
pasbury 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

That is amazing, what else lurks along the Irish (or scottish) coast.
 DundeeDave 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome!
 DannyC 17 Jul 2014
In reply to John Dunne:

A local man called Dan has a small boat and does cheap, fairly ad hoc, lifts from nearby Cruit Island, which you can drive on to. His contact details are on various websites.

Ricky Bell's recent An Empty Book shows the quality of the new lines still being climbed back home: http://rickybel-fast.blogspot.co.uk/ There's more info on there about Owey too.

Danny.
 Jimbo C 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

That is a beautiful piece of rock. Well done!
 bensilvestre 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Incredible
In reply to UKC News:

This looks amazing!!!

John, I promise I'll be out in Ireland next year. I had planned to go to Fairhead and the Burren, but I can now see an additional week being thrown into the mix to incorporate this. Those routes you did there last year looked amazing (for want of a better superlative) too.

mcclown 17 Jul 2014
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKC:

Oh yeah Rob, sure you'll be over I've heard that before :-P

-Stephen
In reply to mcclown:

Haha, this time I PROMISE Stephen.

Whereabouts are you these days anyhow, I head rumours of you moving to the States? Bet there's nothing as good over there as Fairhead eh?
 donie 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I'm so jealous I feel sick!
Great effort and great pics
Donie
 JLS 17 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

With crags that look like that, if them Irelanders invested ten grand in titanium bolts they could build themselves quite a tourist industry.
 GraMc 18 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Half hour laps, john.
In reply to Ginger McGrath:

> Half hour laps, john.

[Sniggers]
In reply to UKC News:

I think I may have to use my administrative access to remove this article from the montage, it isn't good for my workflow - every time I look at it I have to take a moment to compose myself...
 Wft 18 Jul 2014
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKC:

I know what you mean John is quite handsome
 dominic lee 18 Jul 2014
In reply to DannyC:

Looks world class. Dan might need a bigger boat.

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