UKC

Morning all,

Thinking of heading down to Baggy Point in the next few weeks but as I haven't climbed on seacliffs before I thought it might be prudent to ask if anyone has any sagely words of advice.

How many hours can you get in either side of low tide, any considerations to make about Baggy in particular, any tips, or major differences from crag and multipitch climbing inland?

Already got a nice little list of possible climbs to consider in the S-VS range, hence choosing Baggy, but any special recommendations?

Thanks,

Ian

In reply to ianlaw:

Lost Horizons

In reply to ianlaw:
I can recommend the climbs around ben and marion area, the ones we did (those 2) were really good on solid rock and good gear in the main and the whole slab looked reasonable.

We also did kinky boots and the upper reaches of that scared me and I'm used to loose rock - big runouts with loose rock on the large and small scale and quite a bit of vegetation! I've heard quite a bit of Baggy is like that now....

In reply to ianlaw:

Certainly the suggestions above are all very worthwhile, but I would add Shangri La, Twinkletoes and Urizen to your list. Also don't be put off by the reputation of the fall across zawn start to Kinkyboots. Once you do it there's gear and holds aplenty, and the original finish although a bit vegetated and loose is straightforward.

For a brilliant day at those grades also consider Vicarage Cliff. All the routes on the main slab are worthwhile, the rock's good, ditto the surroundings, classic Culm scenery. You do need to get there on a falling tide and be away before it comes in again or face an epic escape up steep grass, vicious thorns and gorse!

In reply to ianlaw:

I've only been once to Baggy and it was nice, although I'm sure there are plenty of friendlier sea cliffs if it is your first ever time.

The climbing was all quite normal from what I remember; but as with many of those sorts of cliffs take care on the scramble down (easy but loose) and top outs - finding decent belays on the loose stuff at the top of seacliffs can be a second crux! Helmets are certainly a good idea.

In reply to ianlaw:


If you don't know how to tie onto a stake anchor now would be a good time to learn... usual method is a clove hitch tied as if the rope/sling was going the opposite direction, then looped back (I am really not explaining this well).

In reply to andrewmcleod:

I get it, but why?

In reply to Iain Peters:

Thank you everyone for you responses. Vicarage Cliff is definitely another venue I'm considering.

Cheers,

Ian

In reply to ianlaw:
Given it hasn't been mentioned yet, and that it may be of use to you, there is a black static rope fixed into the grassy cliff opposite the long rock (shangri la etc) which is easily accessed via a short walk down. No need for a belay abseil, just gives you more of a hand rail, making it much easier to access the beach at the base! Easier than walking around and abbing into the routes for sure!

I hope you enjoy your Baggy experience! Amazing spot!


Ollie.

In reply to ianlaw:

The Promontory - Ben Marion etc. - it is reasonably easy to scramble down, but if you want to do several routes it's worth fixing an ab rope. For Long Rock (if approached from above which probably gives you the most climbing time and I think is best) again you will need an ab rope from the top of the climbs, but the scramble down to the top is quite scary and it is worth fixing a hand-line to the stake at the top of the grass slope. Of course you may be lucky, someone else may already have fixed the ropes...

That said, it's been a while since I was last at Baggy, there may well now be some ropes in-situ that I do not know about.

With most sea-cliffs, it is best to go in on a falling tide, if you aim to get there a bit before half tide, you can always sit around waiting for the water to drop a little if it's too high.

In reply to OllieF:


The problem with this approach is that if you have sacks etc. you will have to either climb with them, haul them up, or ab back down to them and retrieve your ropes after your climb.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

Thank you.

In reply to ianlaw:

Just in case you're unhappy with exposure, bear in mind that the earthy exit from the top of Shangri-La, Lost Horizons etc can feel pretty gripping, with Baggy Hole yawning at your feet. If that's the case, consider leaving either a pre placed rope to protect this, or enough time to ab' off and escape back up the far side.

In reply to ianlaw:

The climbers club website is useful for tide tables

In reply to Tom Last:


We put an ab rope on the rather loose (i.e. you can lift it out of the hole) single stake for this, but just climbed back up later using the rope as a handrail. The four of us had two singles and four halves between us though, so we could spare the rope.

In reply to top cat:
At least some of the routes we did (Ben, Marion etc) belayed off the stakes at the top; I don't think you would have easily found any other gear. Or do you mean why a clove hitch? In which case I presume it is just to stop the rope/sling sliding off the stake; even if the stake tips over the clove hitch should hope it on. See the stake tests here:
http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm