In reply to jonny taylor:
> Went up to Pillar on sunday. God that was hard work in the humid heat! Lovely rock, but shame it's such a mission to get to. Would NOT recommend approach from Buttermere. Guidebook seemed to imply that might be 2 hours; took us three and we're normally pretty fast.
There used to be a firebreak straight up more or less where you went but it disappeared when the forestry was felled.
Actually, the current guide (2007) implies 2.5 hours (I should know, seeing as I wrote it). Personally I also think it takes about the same walking in from Wasdale or from Bowness Knott though you can reduce the latter to 1.5 hours by biking. If you look on page 206 it tells you the best approach, from the track junction on the Pillar side of the Liza (that you reach from either walking from Buttermere or cycling from Bowness Knott) is to walk up the upper right-hand track for 450 metres and then take a diagonal footpath that rises gently up through felled forestry to reach the west bank of the stream that descends from Pillar Cove. About half way up the upper part of this path it is possible to cross the stream and climb up its east bank which is rather more pleasant than the west bank.
The times given get you to the foot of the North Face. To reach the West Face takes another 20 minutes or so. It's quicker and less of a flog to gain it by crossing West Waterfall Gully from the end of Green Ledge but does involve a dangerous scramble on wet rock - add on 10 minutes if you rope up for this. It's safer but a right old slog to bear up right from below the bottom of West Waterfall Gully and walk up the vague ridge on the right which is really steep and, as you have found, pathless. This eventually leads to a good path that gets you to the Western Scree - getting on for 30 minutes.
Probably, the best approach for a really good day's climbing on Pillar is to do a route on the North Face and carry a light sack containing fell shoes, a litre of water and a little food, drop down the lower section of the Old West and do a route on the West Face of High Man, then descend Slab and Notch and the Shamrock Traverse back to your sacks. Various variations could take in the Shamrock or the West Face of Low Man.
I was climbing on Pillar yesterday and did Walker's Gully (which I needed to check as I'd had complaints about the pitch lengths in the description) followed by The Great Chimney to the summit of High Man. This was the only route I hadn't done to the top of High Man and what a surprise! Far from being the poor Diff given a passing mention in the guide it was a good Severe (if you like Gullies) and a really fitting continuation to Walker's Gully. Pillar never ceases to amaze me and it does seem an almost magical place at times. If you go again, I'd heartily recommend virtually any of the starred routes on the West Face of Low Man in particular (as in the 2007 guide) - and there's only 3 that don't get stars.