UKC

Evening - weekend taking two keen friends bolt clipping Bristol way ... Any recommendations for crags would be greatly appreciated by this North Wales dweller! Grades 5 to all 6s ideal, Thankyou all!!

In reply to SJMiller:

Cheddar Gorge - North Side (South is closed for summer), Easter Island, Arch Rock and Overshoot wall have plenty to go at.
Ban-y-Gor in the Wye valley has plenty in the requested grade range too. Pack the insect repellent though. If you end up at Ban-y-Gor then get on Heady Days 6b+, one of the best routes of that grade around.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Thanks a lot for that; they are keen and reasonably fit but now venturing outside! I'm a seasoned campaigner and happy having a go at most things. Which would be better option in terms of loitering about at the bottom while they have a go in the real world?! Is it generally single pitch clip and lower off for example? Ta!

In reply to SJMiller:

Both single pitch, well equipped venues. Ban-y-Gor has some longer lines on the main cliff (25m ish), Cheddar roadside is mostly 12-15m (Easter Island routes are a little longer). Cheddar cleaner, more easily accessible, but polished and largely unmemorable in the lower grades, possibly busy (or sociable - depending on your outlook). Ban-y-Gor a bit more adventurous, less polished, possibly a little vegetated in places, much quieter.
Depends what sort of experience you are after really.
Some of the best lower grade (F5-6a+) routes at the crags are in these lists:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=275 (Cheddar)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=519 (Wye)
From the Lancaut lane parking for Ban-y-Gor you can also easily pop across to the Sports routes at Woodcroft Quarry (part of Wintour's Leap), Still Nice and Still Sleazy is a cracking 30m pitch at F6a+.

In reply to SJMiller:

For what you are looking for, you would do best going to Tintern Quarry, short, easy to manage some newbies, plenty at that grade....there isn't much at Ban y Gor for them....

In reply to HappyTrundler:


If you look in the supplement, there's plenty of newly-bolted routes at Ban-y-Gor in the lower grades. Maybe not the best routes, but they are there.

As for Tintern, I've never been myself so I don't know how seriously to take it, but that section in the guide has the (oft quoted) dire warning, "It is definitely not the crag for the inexperienced. In fact this is not the crag for people of a nervous disposition, the accident-prone, the unlucky, the uninsured, those who are easily disheartened, or anyone with loved ones"

In reply to Nick Russell:

Parts of Tintern are OK, other parts are a chossy nightmare. It's not the nicest place to look at either.

In reply to Nick Russell:

I think the warning rather overstates it. Yes there is loose rock - and in places dangerously loose rock. But the 30foot wall is firm & ideal for relative beginners (lots in the 5s and low 6s). The red dust wall has some good stuff too, esp Dust Devil pitch 2.

In reply to hms:


Fair enough, I guessed it wasn't as bad as it makes out, but you can't have Tintern mentioned on a thread without that description!

In reply to Nick Russell:
You are still in a fairly manky quarry even when you are climbing the solid stuff.

I never understood why people went to horseshoe or intake either.

In reply to SJMiller:

Most sport climbing especially in the lower grades is in manky quarries, Portland being the exception.

With regard to Tintern, as others have said the 30ft wall is good for novices but all areas demand respect. I suspect that the continued uncertainty about the future of climbing there is making people reluctant to re-equip some of the routes. The lower-offs are awful but there are some very good routes there in the 6's. I always find Ban-Y-Gor grades a bit on the tough side and much too short for my tastes but the rock is very good in the most part.

There are also some newly equipped routes at the New Quarry in Avon which are very good now they have been retro-bolted but they start at 6b. I did some of these when they were trad with the odd bolt but I never thought I would say this, they are improved by bolting. I much preferred them the second time round.

In reply to SJMiller:

If going to Cheddar you MUST take note of the requirements: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=929

In reply to Nick Russell:

That description is a load of bollocks Nick, honestly, and anyway you've never even been there !! I've had worse loose rock at Fairy Cave than Tintern...the 30 foot wall and the Red Dust Wall side of the quarry is all pretty solid, big shiny new bolts and lower offs, ideal material for SJ Miller and his friends...also it is a spectacular great lump out of the hillside, it has scale, I like it, never had a bad day out there...

Thanks for all your inoput and views folks; much appreciated.
I had spotted Tintern Quarry and agree re the lower grade bolt routes and a good place to find themrarger thjansporadic/occasional ones on 'natural' crags; simalr scenario up here in N Wales .. quarried areas around Llangollen wil give you more routes closer together comapred to heading to Pen Trwyn where wure there are some rgeat rtourtes at the seaside but fewer a far between...
Dare I ask while I have a few of you here... current situation re Woodcroft?... (access ok?) .. a decent 10m 6a+ would be great to give the some atmosphere! And by supplement is that the addl guide from 2012? Is Gary generally up to date on Sportclimbs.co.uk? Thanks again - just the rain to mess the lot up now! Be sacrificing Sunday lunch I think!

In reply to SJMiller:

Jeez - some typing that! Worry not - got the '30m' route!

In reply to SJMiller:

Woodcroft access may not be official, but seems to be tolerated at present, I don't think there have been any access problems for a few years now. Certainly worth having the 2012 Wye supplement for Woodcroft as there has been substantial equipping of routes and that section has been totally rewritten.
Ban-y-Gor has plenty of decent routes at F5 - F6b+ for a couple of visits at least. Tintern makes the quarried areas around Llangollen look like utopian idylls, it wouldn't be my choice for getting novices enthused.

In reply to SJMiller:

Try these:

Tirpentyws
Cwmaman
Mount Pleasant
Wyndcliffe Quarry

In reply to Jon_Warner:

Tirpentwys is excellent in the lower grades and about 45 mins from Bristol. In hot weather the Gap is great.

In reply to John Alcock:

Agreed, Tirpentwys is best of the lot for a flying grade 5/6 visit. Also, I've not been but heard lots of good things about Gilwern.

In reply to SJMiller:
Thanks one and all... Again. Could be worth a trip over the border then - looks like back to my youth in Lancashire quarries but with bolts!
Don't suppose anyone has a phone/camera lying next to the Woodcroft Quarry photo topo page in Supplement??

In reply to SJMiller:

Agree that Tirpentwys and Crag X (Gilwern Hill) are good options if you don't object to a little more driving.
You've got enough options for a few trips out accumulating - enjoy!