In reply to andrewmcleod:
> There was another thread about this just the other day, but...
> Basically they will hold a lead fall but they will (generally) not pass the requirements of the single rope test - they will not take enough FF 1.77, 80kg weight falls. Hence they are not rated as single ropes (unless they are e.g. Beal Joker). You are correct that in trad you will may fall onto a single strand, but then falling off is less common in trad than sport.
Ah, okay. So presumably
a) if I'm on a single pitch route then I'm never going to take that big a fall factor anyway, so I don't need to worry about it but
b) there are a few situations where a big lob off a multipitch route (ie high fall factor but only one rope weighted) might mean it was worth retiring the rope?
I mean, I try to avoid big lobs with high fall factors off multipitch routes anyway, but it seems worth knowing...