UKC

NEWS: Biographie, 9a+, by Amma

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 UKC News 06 Aug 2014
Sachi Amma working Biographie, 9a+, Céüse, France, 3 kbWorld Cup leader Sachi Amma has repeated Chris Sharma's Biographie, 9a+, at Céüse, France.
Sachi's ascent was the 11th over all and 4th this season, after Siegrist, Megos and Ondra. It was also his 4th of the grade after Papichulo, Pachamama and La Rambla.
If he were to spend more time on rock,...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69097
 Toerag 07 Aug 2014
In reply to UKC News:

When did La Rambla become 9a+?
 simes303 07 Aug 2014
In reply to Toerag:

And why is it always Biographie and not Realization these days?
 JLS 07 Aug 2014
In reply to simes303:

Sharma has been convinced that the local ethic in play at the time was that the bolter got to name the route (Biographie) and he (Sharma) was wrong to try and rename it Realization.
jghedge 08 Aug 2014
In reply to UKC News:

That picture is of the Berlin Wall, not Biographie. You can see the Biographie wall in profile in the background.
 Epsilon 08 Aug 2014
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to simes303)
>
> Sharma has been convinced that the local ethic in play at the time was that the bolter got to name the route (Biographie) and he (Sharma) was wrong to try and rename it Realization.

More accurately: Sharma named it Realization because Arnaud Petit called the version with the intermediate anchor Biographie (which he shouldn't have done), and Sharma didn't want to cause confusion. Now that the intermediate anchor has been removed, the consensus seems to be to call the route Biographie.

JC Lafaille didn't seem to mind the dual names (at the time, the intermediate anchor was still there), calling the Realization a "brilliant solution to Biographie" (Alpinist 14).
 JLS 08 Aug 2014
In reply to Epsilon:

I stand corrected. Cheers.

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