UKC

What is the deal with Sloe Gin at Cheedale these days? Is the whole route basically fully bolted? Looks like a cool line so I was thinking of maybe giving it a go..

Thanks


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230368

In reply to Rachel Slater:

Just as in the description I wrote on that link.
As with the Spider you may require a bit of gear and or stick to get the first bolts clipped. This is because both break out from Sirplum and great care has been taken to keep the bolts well out of the way. The crux is a very reachy affair followed by pumpy exposed moves up the grove to a monster thread.
The original pitch 2 traversed off left at this point to a stance on the Spider. It then pulled over the bulge as or near Spider but quested up the loose pegged flakes on the arête.
Doing this does not make a very logical sport pitch and the rope drag would be horrific.
So the sport version goes directly above the monster thread to one last bolt that is well below and out of reach from the ledge shufflers coming in from the right. When you join Surplum its all over so the choice is yours, go trad or bail off the large thread or down climb to the last bolt.

Hope this helps.
A bit odd but a good outing anyway.
I did a variation link that pulls into the spider post crux at a grade harder.

In reply to Rachel Slater:
The large thread that you get to as you join sirplum was adorned with a collection of tat and crabs so you will have to use your own judgement to its worth. And the cluster of blocks that form the feature.
Topping out would be the most logical method but you will need to carry more ballast.

In reply to kristian:

Sorry, for some reason I can't see the description you wrote on the link. Anyway, thanks for the info, it looks like a great route! How reachy are we talking for the crux?!

In reply to Rachel Slater:

The line is pretty obvious when you get there. As Kristian says, take a clip stick for the first bolt else it would be a pretty scary move without a pre clip. Just go straight up the obvious line to the lower off. I added a new thread last year 'cos what was there looked worrying. Nice climbing.

In reply to Rachel Slater:




I entered the route into the database so wrote the description.
Most of the crux sequence is performed with your feet on a large ledge (the stomach traverse)keeping your feet on it for as long as possible to avoid a violent swing is desirable. I'm just short of 5'8. There maybe a dwarf method.

In reply to Rachel Slater:


Were you there today ? I cycled past this afternoon and saw a guy and girl at the base and a rope hooked up to the bolt in the roof

In reply to chris fox: Nope, not me!