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Good morning UKC’rs
Having just recently returned from the Ecrins region in the French Alps and despite having mixed weather, my partners in crime and I managed to fulfil a long held ambition and climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" (with the odd harder variation) on the mighty Aiguille Dibona 3131m.
First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains (along with the Matterhorn) in Europe. Unless you think there are other contenders…
Gaston Rebuffat himself wrote about Dibona : "This needle is a monument of stone given to mankind by the earth and the time, an extraordinary sculpture in the sky, the light and the silence of Oisans. The same achievements of the climbers on another mountain would not be so marvellous. This needle was a question, climbing on her a response".
Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link:
youtube.com/watch?v=ygToEMgjMYU&
So has anyone got any tales of derring-do to tell of their experience on the Dibona? Any fond memories or even a pushy guide to deal with? Did your tour go like clockwork or had an epic?
Anyway all constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it will inspire a few folks to visit this spectacular area of the French Alps, stay in the superb Soreiller Hut and climb the Dibona!
Cheers and happy climbing
Dave
Having just recently returned from the Ecrins region in the French Alps and despite having mixed weather, my partners in crime and I managed to fulfil a long held ambition and climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" (with the odd harder variation) on the mighty Aiguille Dibona 3131m.
First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains (along with the Matterhorn) in Europe. Unless you think there are other contenders…
Gaston Rebuffat himself wrote about Dibona : "This needle is a monument of stone given to mankind by the earth and the time, an extraordinary sculpture in the sky, the light and the silence of Oisans. The same achievements of the climbers on another mountain would not be so marvellous. This needle was a question, climbing on her a response".
Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link:
youtube.com/watch?v=ygToEMgjMYU&
So has anyone got any tales of derring-do to tell of their experience on the Dibona? Any fond memories or even a pushy guide to deal with? Did your tour go like clockwork or had an epic?
Anyway all constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it will inspire a few folks to visit this spectacular area of the French Alps, stay in the superb Soreiller Hut and climb the Dibona!
Cheers and happy climbing
Dave
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Cracking video as per usual. Never even heard of that mountain but it's certainly iconic. Looked very popular to.
Cracking video as per usual. Never even heard of that mountain but it's certainly iconic. Looked very popular to.
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Thanks Dave. Enjoyed that lots. Well done.
In reply to Matt Smith, pneame, Gav and goatee:
Cheers Matt and all
I really appreciate the positive feedback and glad you enjoyed the vid!
Dave
> Cracking video as per usual. Never even heard of that mountain but it's certainly iconic. Looked very popular to.
Cheers Matt and all
I really appreciate the positive feedback and glad you enjoyed the vid!
Dave
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
A smashing video of one of my favourite mountains. Even though it is popular I can never understand why it isn't even more popular. The granite there is gorgeous, no glacier and a proper pointy summit....a rock climbers dream.
sjm
A smashing video of one of my favourite mountains. Even though it is popular I can never understand why it isn't even more popular. The granite there is gorgeous, no glacier and a proper pointy summit....a rock climbers dream.
sjm
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
One question though - looked pretty congested, can you tell us more? Was it every team for themselves or was there etiquette involved?
One question though - looked pretty congested, can you tell us more? Was it every team for themselves or was there etiquette involved?
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Lovely video, lovely looking route. After doing some research following you're post the Voie Madier - South Face direct has made it onto the wish list.
Lovely video, lovely looking route. After doing some research following you're post the Voie Madier - South Face direct has made it onto the wish list.
In reply to Bobling:
"looked pretty congested"
When I tried it there was an almighty rammy from the hut to the start at about 7:01. I don't remember any problem on the route ...... well not with other teams............ yes we got lost!
sjm
"looked pretty congested"
When I tried it there was an almighty rammy from the hut to the start at about 7:01. I don't remember any problem on the route ...... well not with other teams............ yes we got lost!
sjm
In reply to sjminfife:
Hey sjm many thanks for your kind words and totally agree with all your comments. Indeed a rock climbers dream and some!
> A smashing video of one of my favourite mountains. Even though it is popular I can never understand why it isn't even more popular. The granite there is gorgeous, no glacier and a proper pointy summit....a rock climbers dream.
> sjm
Hey sjm many thanks for your kind words and totally agree with all your comments. Indeed a rock climbers dream and some!
In reply to Bobling:
Cheers Bobling muchly appreciated and to answer your question it was pretty congested as there was a mass exodus from the hut around 7am. However the delightful guardians, Martine and Maria,tried to stagger the breakfast times the night before for the various parties and their particular routes, but this was exarcabated by a couple of teams saying they would have brekkie at 6 but not appearing until nearer 7, thus causing a bottleneck at the start! So there was a bit of etiquette but also times when you had "to act French"...
> Loved that - one of the best yet. Keep them coming!
Cheers Bobling muchly appreciated and to answer your question it was pretty congested as there was a mass exodus from the hut around 7am. However the delightful guardians, Martine and Maria,tried to stagger the breakfast times the night before for the various parties and their particular routes, but this was exarcabated by a couple of teams saying they would have brekkie at 6 but not appearing until nearer 7, thus causing a bottleneck at the start! So there was a bit of etiquette but also times when you had "to act French"...
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
It's certainly a striking peak but for my money it's too outlandish -- too spiky -- to be termed "beautiful". I'd use that word for, in the Alps, the likes of the Weisshorn, the Bionnassay, the Silberhorn on the Jungfau.
It's certainly a striking peak but for my money it's too outlandish -- too spiky -- to be termed "beautiful". I'd use that word for, in the Alps, the likes of the Weisshorn, the Bionnassay, the Silberhorn on the Jungfau.
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Nice one! Is a fantastic peak for rock climbers. We did visite obligatoire a few years back and it is certainly one of my climbing highlights. I agree with your recommendation, is not to be missed.
In reply to James Rushforth:
Cheers James yep there were quite a few teams on the Voie Madier and it looked like a stunning route so hope you get on it one day!
> Lovely video, lovely looking route. After doing some research following you're post the Voie Madier - South Face direct has made it onto the wish list.
Cheers James yep there were quite a few teams on the Voie Madier and it looked like a stunning route so hope you get on it one day!
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
I think you've become my favourite film maker ! This is another really enjoyable video and as usual I want to do it !
I think you've become my favourite film maker ! This is another really enjoyable video and as usual I want to do it !
In reply to Sankey:
Hey sankey muchos gracias and yep "Visite Obligatoire" looked an absolutely amazing route and supposedly one of the best of it's grade in the whole of the Alps so well done you!
> Nice one! Is a fantastic peak for rock climbers. We did visite obligatoire a few years back and it is certainly one of my climbing highlights. I agree with your recommendation, is not to be missed.
Hey sankey muchos gracias and yep "Visite Obligatoire" looked an absolutely amazing route and supposedly one of the best of it's grade in the whole of the Alps so well done you!
In reply to I like climbing:
Hey ILC a maa-hoosive thanks for your kind words and as of now I'm available to hire for Union rates...
> I think you've become my favourite film maker ! This is another really enjoyable video and as usual I want to do it !
Hey ILC a maa-hoosive thanks for your kind words and as of now I'm available to hire for Union rates...
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Hi.
Really enjoyed that! I'd forgotton how narrow it was at the top, and also the 'tunnel'
Hi.
Really enjoyed that! I'd forgotton how narrow it was at the top, and also the 'tunnel'
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Thanks for posting up. I too really look forwards to your short films and this is no exception. I'm a punter and (please don't take offence) I'm fed up of watching films of out there first ascent and stuff I will never be able to do.
Keep up the good work
cheers
Gaz
Thanks for posting up. I too really look forwards to your short films and this is no exception. I'm a punter and (please don't take offence) I'm fed up of watching films of out there first ascent and stuff I will never be able to do.
Keep up the good work
cheers
Gaz
In reply to dek:
Hi Dek
Many thanks for the positive feedback and "yep" the top was super-narrow in places!
And as for the "tunnel pitch"? Well there was a guy of "generous proportions" who was being guided up the route and was having a wee bit of difficulty in getting through the tunnel! He got so stuck at one point my mate thought he was going to have to set up a crevasse rescue pulley-system to assist at one point...
> Hi.
> Really enjoyed that! I'd forgotton how narrow it was at the top, and also the 'tunnel'
Hi Dek
Many thanks for the positive feedback and "yep" the top was super-narrow in places!
And as for the "tunnel pitch"? Well there was a guy of "generous proportions" who was being guided up the route and was having a wee bit of difficulty in getting through the tunnel! He got so stuck at one point my mate thought he was going to have to set up a crevasse rescue pulley-system to assist at one point...
> And as for the "tunnel pitch"?
This is where the guide was knocked from my sack and our adventure began....It ended when two old ladies lent me a walking pole to support my knee and get back to the road. We topped out via Gnome Route. I full expected my mate to be along with his rather witty version of our misadventure .......
sjm
In reply to Gazlynn:
Hey Gazlynn a big thanks for the kind words and as a self-confessed punter myself I can appreciate what you are saying! Anyway when I get the time there should be another short BEP film in a few weeks featuring big mountains, flora, fauna, broken spectres and much, much more so watch this space...
> Thanks for posting up. I too really look forwards to your short films and this is no exception. I'm a punter and (please don't take offence) I'm fed up of watching films of out there first ascent and stuff I will never be able to do.
> Keep up the good work
Hey Gazlynn a big thanks for the kind words and as a self-confessed punter myself I can appreciate what you are saying! Anyway when I get the time there should be another short BEP film in a few weeks featuring big mountains, flora, fauna, broken spectres and much, much more so watch this space...
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
I enjoyed it too. This was a route I did back in 1980 at the age of 16. Not much memory of it other than remembering what a great route it was.
So thanks for bringing some of that back to me!
I enjoyed it too. This was a route I did back in 1980 at the age of 16. Not much memory of it other than remembering what a great route it was.
So thanks for bringing some of that back to me!
In reply to wynaptomos:
Hi wynaptomos
A big thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed the movie and that it bought back some nice memories of a great route back to you!
Cheers Dave
> I enjoyed it too. This was a route I did back in 1980 at the age of 16. Not much memory of it other than remembering what a great route it was.
> So thanks for bringing some of that back to me!
Hi wynaptomos
A big thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed the movie and that it bought back some nice memories of a great route back to you!
Cheers Dave
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Beautifully shot + edited with some great time-lapses all making another great movie so thanks for sharing!
Beautifully shot + edited with some great time-lapses all making another great movie so thanks for sharing!
In reply to WildWeasel:
...and many thanks for the positive feedback!
> Beautifully shot + edited with some great time-lapses all making another great movie so thanks for sharing!
...and many thanks for the positive feedback!
Post edited at 07:31
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Did it 40 odd years ago with the late Ian Angel and Barry Curly,deep snow down below the hut and banking out half the first pitch.4 of us walked up and bivvied near the hut ,4am and Alan packed his rucsac and said Im off back to the tents for some breakfast.Held up by a slow french party but we kept them interested with Opal Fruits while I sneaked off up the next pitch in front of them.Not a lot of fixed pro in those days ,looks much improved on the video.Big boots and a rucsac made it an interesting and happy day.Superb route.
Did it 40 odd years ago with the late Ian Angel and Barry Curly,deep snow down below the hut and banking out half the first pitch.4 of us walked up and bivvied near the hut ,4am and Alan packed his rucsac and said Im off back to the tents for some breakfast.Held up by a slow french party but we kept them interested with Opal Fruits while I sneaked off up the next pitch in front of them.Not a lot of fixed pro in those days ,looks much improved on the video.Big boots and a rucsac made it an interesting and happy day.Superb route.
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Been trying to get this route in for a couple of years now - always get bad weather in that area when we are there! The nearest I've got is a Dibona Pizza
Fantastic film, really well done - its inspired me to keep on going back!
One day......!
Suilven
Been trying to get this route in for a couple of years now - always get bad weather in that area when we are there! The nearest I've got is a Dibona Pizza
Fantastic film, really well done - its inspired me to keep on going back!
One day......!
Suilven
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Nice one Dave...our next trip might be to Ecrins, so thanks for highlighting this climb.
Excellent all through...except David's taste in music, that is
Nice one Dave...our next trip might be to Ecrins, so thanks for highlighting this climb.
Excellent all through...except David's taste in music, that is
In reply to chris fox:
Hey Chris appreciate the kind words as I sit here in Scotland with wi-fi for the first time in a few days with an evening cup of tea in hand!
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
>
> What a nice video to watch with my morning coffee in hand.
>
> What a nice video to watch with my morning coffee in hand.
Hey Chris appreciate the kind words as I sit here in Scotland with wi-fi for the first time in a few days with an evening cup of tea in hand!
In reply to suilven:
Hi Suilven muchos gracias for the positive feedback and hopefully you are sufficiently inspired to go back and surely the sun will shine for you from dawn to dusk!
> Been trying to get this route in for a couple of years now - always get bad weather in that area when we are there! The nearest I've got is a Dibona Pizza
> Fantastic film, really well done - its inspired me to keep on going back!
> One day......!
> Suilven
Hi Suilven muchos gracias for the positive feedback and hopefully you are sufficiently inspired to go back and surely the sun will shine for you from dawn to dusk!
In reply to Nigel Modern:
Hey Nigel a big cheers for the kind feedback and the Ecrins is a superb area to visit. Thankfully we seemed to get back some of what decent weather was on offer in this pretty dismal alpine summer so lots of great routes were done between the rain!
Cheers Dave
PS yep El David's taste in music can be rather...erm...questionable and as for his "Dad dancing" with his sleeping bag...
> Nice one Dave...our next trip might be to Ecrins, so thanks for highlighting this climb.
> Excellent all through...except David's taste in music, that is
Hey Nigel a big cheers for the kind feedback and the Ecrins is a superb area to visit. Thankfully we seemed to get back some of what decent weather was on offer in this pretty dismal alpine summer so lots of great routes were done between the rain!
Cheers Dave
PS yep El David's taste in music can be rather...erm...questionable and as for his "Dad dancing" with his sleeping bag...
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