Hi everyone, as few of you know from previous forums i'm heading out to Yosemite in September with the aim of getting to the top of El Cap! we are probably looking at going up 'lurking fear'. I am in a bit of a quandary as to which off set cams to buy? the BD X4s look pretty good and my experience of the standard C3's and C4's has been great.
Has anyone on here used the X4 off sets or The Totem's or both and if so which would you recommend? Or can we get away with standard cams? I would greatly appreciate your advice on this. many thanks in advance.
The Totem cams are great for fitting into awkward placements so I'd have thought they would make a very useful addition to an aid rack. I'm not really into aid climbing but have bounce tested single lobed totem cam placements and they seem pretty secure, definitely good enough for progression if not what you'd call a solid runner! You can get them into some fantastically shallow placements and they feel pretty solid, definitely worth having a play with some.
Thanks very much for the advice everyone, its been very useful! now I just need to start getting kit together and getting psyched!
how long did it take you to do Luking Fear Iain and Matt? We plan to do as a three, so far we have one Portaledge but don't really want to buy a second one as the third probably isn't that keen on doing any more big walls. was it your first big wall or had you done them before?
2 nights. Plan was to use the ledge and one bivi above and to oneside of pitch 9. We all ended up sitting on the ledge on p9 pillar of despair due to slow partners ;)! It was fine though (amazing how you can sleep when you're knackered.
2nd bivi on p14. From there top out,walk down, pizzas and beer!
Ps The top slabs are the crux. Pulling the pig/ledge over endless slabs!!
Go as light you can. (One ledge and one bag) We met a Korean team of two that did it in 6 days!!!!! Bless them.
We took three nights but did start at about 4pm on the first day after a missjudgement that meant we arrived at the base with no water. (There had been a natural spring nearby when my partner hiked to the base the Autumn before).
It was my first (only) El Cap route but I'd done The Prow on WC and my partner had a respectable ticklist from Squamish. We'd also just done the first 6 or 7 pitches of NA Wall before I got spooked so had got our eye in on aid as it were. LF felt very friendly after NA Wall!
From my memory most of the earlier bivis wouldn't be all that much fun without a protaledge. There's a pinnacle at the top of pitch 9(?) but from my recollection of uing the "poop tube" there it wasn't all that great to sleep on (we slept on the ledge at top of 8 and just fixed to 9 for the morning).
The ledge at pitch 14ish (it, or the next pitch had a name like Marty's mantel or something) was huge and we didn't use the ledge.
Thanksgiving ledge is also monster and you wouldn't need a ledge if you had to sleep there.