UKC

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me what’s eliminated and what’s not on the Blackwall traverse low version L-R and R-L at Salisbury crags (Edinburgh)?

I had it wired using the vertical crimp above the big flat hold (at the start of problem 6 in BiS), but along came a German wad (nice guy, not the pedantic type) and that was the end of that.

I’m actually quite happy to have new project to work on, but it feels way harder now, like clearly beyond 7b (perhaps I’m simply too weak?).

So it’d be nice to know what’s actually in and what’s not.

Thanks in advance for any beta.

Pierre

In reply to Pierre Fuentes:

Hard to explain but anything above head height is out. From L to R:

Start as low and far L as possible, move to a press, match, move to hold at bottom of the groove, match, span out to big polished flat hold, match (crux), span to seam, match, span to arete...

In reply to Beardyman:

Thanks Beardyman!

Well, head height is relative - I'm 6'2, so the vertical side pull crimp above the big flat polished hold is technically below head height for me. But from your description, it looks like it's out.

It would be useful to have a picture with the holds circled, or numbered like on Scottishclimbs.com.

In any case, help much appreciated

In reply to Pierre Fuentes:

Not been up there for ages, might go and make a wee video one day. I think the crimp you mention is out, but who knows? I got shown the sequence by someone, who got shown......

In reply to Beardyman:

Cheers, sound like old tradition knowledge!

A video would be cool indeed - the on sight ascent is long gone for me anyway :-D