UKC

Climbing here today and second pulled a huge 3.5x2x1.5 foot block off the top of this route. Hardly took much.
Very lucky as it would have been death if I had done it on the lead.

The last section of the climb is now markedly changed.

Also any word on the oft-talked about felling of trees here as this is surely the central belts best concentration of E3-E8 climbs?

In reply to Stevie989:

It would be a much more appetizing prospect to spend some time in if it was cleared out. Excellent spot spoiled only by the trees etc.

In reply to Stevie989:

It was cleaned out a bit a few years ago now, but I'd agree that it could probably do with slightly more being trimmed back.

In reply to Fraser:

Anyone know who owns the land?

In reply to Stevie989:

Very true although many Central Belt climbers are too busy dogging up the same sport routes over and again to actually get on these trad routes (apart from the odd token top-rope attempt - bletch) and keep them as clean as they deserve.

I did do some clearing out last year but it was mostly rubbish and path clearance and only a few shading branches. The left wall is generally in pretty reasonable condition - it gets the evening sun and is good in a strong Westerly breeze (not unknown in Scotland...). Maybe a couple of routes could do with a scrub but they're not too shaded.

The right hand side could do with some work, I was actually speculating on this the other night and wondering about hiring a petrol chainsaw and just getting the job done. You'd probably only need to cut down 3/4 trees around Sexed Up to Trailblazer, and maybe one on the left wall - although then cutting them up to form tidy log piles could be arduous.

http://www.hss.com/g/3705/Chainsaws-and-Safety-Kit.html hmmmmm....

In reply to Fiend:



Do give it a rest Matthew, you really are a broken record on the subject. Let people can do what they want, even if, God forbid, it's not the same as what you want to do.

In reply to Fiend:

Is it okay to just go ahead and cut down some trees does nobody mind,i have a chainsaw and i dont mind doing my bit for thr trad comunity.i was there yesterday for the first time in years and it really could be a top trad venue,the one thing you really notice having climbed in the other quarry is how greasy the rock is due to lack of sun and wind drying the place is there a best time of year when its not to greasy.
cheers dougie.

In reply to d conacher:

Sorry I don't know about the legalities and ownership, although I have found that manually sawing down smaller trees in these quarries seems to cause few concerns - there's a lot of trees and I doubt the owners go checking very often. However actually chainsawing down larger trees may raise alarms, I don't know.

Conditions-wise, as I say go when there is a strong Westerly or North-Westerly breeze and it can be pretty good. I was there in such weather a few weeks ago and even after heavy showers the previous day, it was all dry and fine. Muggy days would be pretty bad.

In reply to Stevie989:

It would be good to see the quarry much brighter and with a bit more air about it.

I had similar plans for felling...

Whilst I'm not able to make full use of the old quarry yet I'm hoping to spend a bit of time next year.

In reply to Stevie989:

Stevie you have mail btw.

In reply to Stevie989:
Hi there all
As a local resident and climber can I offer some information regarding the ownership of Thorntons Quarry as it is known. It and the nearby Fourth Quarry (Easy Contract - Not Easy Contract area) are now owned by Tillicoultry Quarries limited.
They acquired them about a year ago in a deal with Tarmac. The MC of S Access Officer is aware of this but I don't know if there has been any contact with the owner.
Whereas Tarmac were fairly laid back about access it seems Tillicoultry are not. The local Community Council approached them to drain a core footpath that runs through Fourth quarry and they refused permission saying that they were reviewing the access situation.
They have grounds for this as the quarry is not disused but still has a valid planning permission though they would have to re-submit it to re-open it. I believe the term is Dormant!
In a seperate aspect there is another quarry (No active climbing) over on the other side of Gillies Hill which is under different ownership and a company called Patersons have indicated their intent to re-open it. The local community and a campaign body "Save Gillies Hill" (On FB & website) are fighting this plan tooth and nail as its consequence for conservation, recreation and landscape are terrible.
Although the two areas (& ownership) are distinct from each other can I please ask that you tread carefully with your tidy up plans so as not to damage the case for responsible action on Gillies Hill. Pleading ignorance of the situation may be a safe ploy if you proceed and are spotted.
Thanks Keith Ratcliffe

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Cheers for the heads up.

It must have been dormant for a good 20 years at least if not nearer 30.

What do the use dolerite for anyway?

In reply to Stevie989:

Hi there
Quarry permissions are granted with very long terms eg 40 yrs but have a definite review date. I am not sure when it is for these 2 quarries. It is currently classed as 'ceased'
The stone is crushed and used in making tarmacadam for the roads. All the old processing equipment was removed when it was no longer deemed working.

In reply to Stevie989:

Had a look there a couple of days back, the route should be climbable at the same grade, but needs a clean at the top. Take care though...

On a related note - the entire top 1/3 of Scaresville in the outer quarry has fallen down, and the route looks entirely unclimbable in its current state

And the first decent holds above the crux of Gobi Roof are sounding ominously hollow. Pull gently (down, not out) and helmets on to belay! Safe enough to lead though cos bomber gear close by..

Gotta love the dolerite

In reply to Dr Toph:

I didn't think the grade would be affected much myself.

Yeah a lot of the quarry feels loose. Not easy contract as at least one loose show box sized block. It's keyed in well enough but I wouldn't put gear near it.

Malky the alky will most likely come down at some point...