UKC

NEWS: VIDEO: Adam Ondra - Illusionist, 9a, Flatanger

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 UKC News 04 Sep 2014
Adam Ondra at the Rock Masters award, 2 kbFrom Petr Pavlicek comes this short movie featuring Adam Ondra bolting and making the first ascent of Illusionist, 9a, at Flatanger, Norway.
Bit of a spoiler maybe, but yeah, he climbs it in the end after quite a struggle. There's quite obviously a huge difference between the kind of 9a's Adam is...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69150
 jsmcfarland 04 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

awesome climbing. Anyone else think his belayer is a bit shit on the 'day 1' footage? the amount of unnecessary slack he had, no wonder he was practically decking every fall :
1
Removed User 04 Sep 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

Not really - any less slack and the rope would have been controlling the swing which is surely cheating.
 GrahamD 05 Sep 2014
In reply to jsmcfarland:

I suspect that Ondra is quite capable of asking for less slack if he thought it was a problem.
In reply to UKC News:

I await news of 10a.
 Enty 05 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I think I'm in love and it's not with Adam..............

E
 Shani 05 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Impressive stuff from AO.

I wonder at what point he chooses to fix the top anchors? Looks like there is a lot of rock above...
 Fraser 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Shani:

Rope length maybe? Not sure, but agree about there being a lot more rock above to continue. I thought the run-out from last bolt to the l/o looked quite long....
 Enty 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Fraser:

If the headwall is about 7b+ (just guessing by the angle) I don't think he's going to waste too much money bolting it.
It would be like me bolting a 100ft of 4+ above a 7a.
Then you have the problem of getting off if there's more than 50m of climbing.

E
 Shani 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Enty:

The headwall still looks pretty overhanging to me.

I'd love to see multipitch along the lines of 9a, 9a+, 9a!
 Enty 05 Sep 2014
In reply to Shani:

I'm just going off the last bit of climbing to the belay.

E
 jsmcfarland 06 Sep 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

I notice he has much better falls in the later on footage...my guess is he did mention it to his missus :P
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