UKC

Tintern Quarry access problems today

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 Steve Bartle 07 Sep 2014
We turned up late morning at Tintern Quarry today, and within minutes of arriving at the 30ft wall a van arrived in the quarry. The guy in the van spoke to some people on Red Dust Wall and then shouted over to us and a few others that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe' and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. As far as I know everyone left politely. There was no additional signage at the car park (other than the usual ones) to indicate that there was a new access issue. I've reported it to the BMC and crag moderator on here
 Fatclimber 08 Sep 2014
In reply to rdpounder:

I believe that Tintern Quarry is owned by the Crown Estate, so unless it was the Queen who suggested people leave it wasn't the owner. that of course doesn't mean it wasn't her representative.
In reply to rdpounder:

Hmmm,...I'd be very interested to hear the thoughts of the BMC and crag moderator? I was planning on taking a couple of people there tomorrow as the 30ft wall area is ideal for showing them some sport skills such as re-threading, due to the top access.

Elefan
 Rick Sewards 08 Sep 2014
In reply to rdpounder:

Thanks for reporting this - this is new and very worrying, as the quarry owners (not the Crown, as far as I know) have not (at least in last 10 years) had any objection to climbing. I will try to contact them today, not least to establish whether this was the owner and what the reasons for his action was.

Rick Sewards

Wye Valley Access Rep
 hms 08 Sep 2014
In reply to rdpounder:

Well it blatently is 'unsafe' but that's the risk we choose to take if climbing there I guess. I would be very sad to see it banned as a venue - yes it isn't beautiful, yes the bad routes are terrible, but the good ones are superb!
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Hi Rick,


Please advise us as soon as you can. I was planning on being there tomorrow. Thanks for your continued efforts in the area.

Elefan
 Rick Sewards 08 Sep 2014
In reply to Elefan/all:

I have written to the quarry owner asking for the reason(s) he has asked climbers to leave, and to request a meeting/discussion with him to establish what his concerns and plans are and to try to negotiate continued access for climbing. In view of this, and the previous access discussions concerning Tintern Quarry (see page 18 of the Lower Wye Valley guidebook) I would ask that climbers please, for the moment, refrain from climbing in Tintern Quarry, while clarification is sought as to the reasons for the owner's actions.

I realise this is unwelcome as Tintern Quarry has become a very popular and useful venue, but in this case I think it would be helpful for the long-term prospects for climbing there. I have emphasised in my email that all those climbing in the quarry recognise and take responsibility for the risks in doing so.

I will post again as soon as I know more.

Rick Sewards

Wye Valley Access Rep

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Thank you, Rick. I'll await further details.
Macca 08 Sep 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Hi Rick, I'm the Chairman of Avon MC. Just to let you know we've informed all our members of the situation at Tintern Quarry and requested no-one climbs at the quarry for the time being.

Let us know when you've more info.

Many thanks

Macca.
OP Steve Bartle 08 Sep 2014
In reply to Macca:
Hi, i'm an AMC member myself (as are the other 2 who were with me), so thanks for sending the email around, as I was about to send something similar.

And thanks Rick for your ongoing efforts, the outcome of which we all eagerly await. This was to be my first climb at the quarry

Steve
Post edited at 22:03
 springfall2008 09 Sep 2014
In reply to rdpounder: We were at the quarry last night (Monday) and a white van drove down the access road and then a few minutes later drove back up. We were on the Red Dust Wall so I'm sure the driver saw us but didn't say anything. Not sure if we got lucky or if they stopped bothering climbers now..

Flora 17 Sep 2014
In reply to Steve Bartle:

I was just wondering if there had been any development on this? We were planning a trip there this Friday (19th Sept), but don't want to upset anyone/tread on any toes.

Cheers
 Rick Sewards 17 Sep 2014
In reply to Flora:

Hi Flora

I'm afraid at the moment I would still advise against climbing in Tintern Quarry; I will update this thread as soon as I have any further news to report.

Thanks

Rick Sewards
Wye Valley Access Rep
Flora 18 Sep 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Thanks very much. We'll go somewhere else.

 The Pylon King 18 Sep 2014
In reply to Flora:

To be honest if it was me i would just go there and climb. Whats the worst that is going to happen, they will chuck you out?

If there is an actual sign up saying No Climbing then that is a different matter.
 hms 18 Sep 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

well of course there's a sign up saying no climbing - this is Britain!
 Neil Williams 18 Sep 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

It might well damage the view of "the climbing community" from the point of view of the owner which might well jeopardise future access.

Yes, I know, we aren't all one body. But outsiders tend to think we are.

Neil
OP Steve Bartle 18 Sep 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

It's not about whether any one individual will get in trouble or not - at the end of the day, any sign that says "Trespassers will be prosecuted" or similar is just a load of bull - it's about doing the diplomatic thing for a while, whilst the people involved work out something that hopefully suits everyone. At the end of the day, it's private land, on which climbing has been allowed for a long time. There are plenty of places to climb in the area in the meantime.
 Neil Williams 19 Sep 2014
In reply to Steve Bartle:
That's an odd though common sign, as trespassers (except in certain byelaw cases like the railways) will emphatically not be prosecuted (unless they have while trespassing committed another separate criminal offence), as trespass is not itself a criminal offence.

Neil
Post edited at 09:07
OP Steve Bartle 19 Sep 2014
In reply to Neil Williams:

That's the point I was making...the concern here shouldn't be about whether anyone will get into trouble by climbing there (because they won't), but more that we each have a responsibility to the climbing community to do the 'right thing' for a while and be patient whilst things are hopefully being sorted out.
 springfall2008 02 Oct 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Any news?
 sideshow84 17 Oct 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Hi Rick have you managed to have a meeting yet, any news?

Was hoping to do a 30 climb 30th birthday challenge in Tintern due to the number of low grade climbs, but dont want to jump the gun and climb when things arent sorted.

Cheers Andy
Removed User 17 Oct 2014
In reply to sideshow84:

I'm not sure I agree with some of the views expressed above. All we seem to know is that on one day a few weeks ago two parties were told to leave by a person unknown. There seem to have been no reports since, though climbers have continued to go there (party there this aftenoon in fact).

It may have been the owner, but that action would have been completely out of keeping with the very amicable negotiations I had with him when editing the Lower Wye Guide a few years ago. I think that if he had changed his mind about climbing in the quarry, for good reasons or bad, he would have given us formal notice.

It may not have been the owner but either someone representing him who was unaware of the arrangement or someone with no authority at all. Just remember Kev of Woodcroft five years ago and the havoc he wrought!

It is correct that there no new (or old for that matter!) no climbing signs, just the usual Danger Keep Out. However, there are signs that vegetation by the tracks has been trimmed or flattened, for what reason is not apparent.

It seems to me that unless Rick has had any formal communication from the owner, or until he does, climbers should not feel bound to stay away. The advice about leaving politely if challenged is obviously sound, but it would also be in order to request some form of authorization. Take extra care not to have an accident too!

John
 Rick Sewards 17 Oct 2014
In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

John/all

First of all, apologies for the silence - I overlooked treforsouthwell's post (just before I went off to Lundy for a week) and have just seen sideshow84's post. I have made contact with the owner and he has said he does not wish climbing to take place (and it was the owners who originally asked climbers to leave), but is willing to meet Rob Dyer and me. It is taking longer than I had hoped to arrange this, but it won't be left with the current (temporary) advice indefinitely.

Rick

PS John - I'll give you a call about this at the weekend if that's OK - I'd like to hear about your previous discussions with the owner

 sideshow84 19 Oct 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Ok, thanks Rick for the update, was just seeing if anything had been set up yet etc, lets hope a meeting with the owner will indeed allow Tintern to be back in full use.

and interesting points from John, there must be something going on if hes suddenly changed his mind over access, presumably safety and more likely insurance.

Cheers Andy
 Rick Sewards 01 Nov 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Hi all

Apologies for the long silence - unfortunately despite early communication and the offer of a meeting it has all gone silent, and so I can't say at the moment there are any negotiations (though that could obviously change).

The situation is therefore that the landowners have indicated that they do not wish climbing to take place, and so anybody who does may be asked to leave, and should do so politely if this happens. I'm no longer making any recommendations beyond that, but will let you know if anything changes. The RAD will be updated to reflect this.

Thanks

Rick
BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Colin Mercer 02 Nov 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Sounds like Indian given to me ! I know a guy who purposely bout some land just to stop climbers !! He wasn't just singling out climbers though he also bought a stretch of river and banned canoeing and fishing !
I was also told by a local he also tried to close off the public footpath that ran though his field , at which point the locals and the council got involved and stopped him ! I know of plenty of other people just the same who are only happy when others are not , you can't and won't win!

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