In reply to Hammy78:
Some tips from my experience a few years back:
* Do lots of long scrambling in boots before going out
* Only attempt when the weather/conditions/forecasts are good
* On your trip, get some routes on other mountains first
* Sleep high elsewhere before you go, helps to acclimatise - we wild camped high up on the Taschhorn the day before we went to the Hornli hut
* Do part of the route the day before you go for the summit - bottom section is the most tricky in terms of route finding
* Don't feel you have to be the first out of the hut
* Be prepared to move solo to being with
* No need for bundles of gear. Slings, super lights rocks, couple of biners. No Cams, etc..
* Not technically hard - however - a really long route.
Have a photo topo that I put together from other sources before we went. Will send you it in an email.