UKC

Is Avon Gorge climbing getting a new lease of life?

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 ericinbristol 11 Sep 2014

It's great that the ClimbBristol project is trying to revive climbing in the Avon Gorge. Info here http://climbbristol.com/ and here https://www.facebook.com/Climbbristol.

I know that the New Quarry is busy these days mainly due to the bolted routes but also a smattering of the trad routes is getting done.

What about the rest of the Gorge? Is it getting busier?
Post edited at 14:59
 The Pylon King 11 Sep 2014
In reply to ericinbristol:

I don't know about at the moment but i bet it will get busier when the new guide comes out.
OP ericinbristol 11 Sep 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Good point. Any info on when that might be?
OP ericinbristol 11 Sep 2014
It's interesting to look at, for example, the UKC logbook for Main Wall http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=31 (obviously not a complete record of ascents). 117 routes, 23 with ascents in 2014, 36 with 0 ascents logged for any year. Early days for the project I guess.
 The Pylon King 11 Sep 2014
In reply to ericinbristol:

2016 I think.
 GridNorth 11 Sep 2014
In reply to ericinbristol:

I think the gorge has fallen victim to a number of events as there used to be a very vibrant scene back in the 70's, 80's and early 90's. The toilets were looked after, the car park was expanded and the tea van was always present at the foot of the cliffs and made for a very amicable meeting area. Then the gypsies moved in, they together with the methods introduced to get them out and keep them out, spoilt the environment and the council seemed to give up trying to keep the place maintained. During this period Pergrine Falcons took the opportunity to inhabit several parts of the cliff which delayed active climbing even further and the vegetation started to take over. To cap it all sports climbing became popular and the adventurous nature of many of the climbs just seemed to be too much for many modern climbers. All very sad. Avon climbing suited my style and I have many happy memories of the climbs and the people some of whom, including me, are still active today.

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