UKC

ARTICLE: The Five Best E5 Routes in the UK?

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 UKC Articles 15 Sep 2014
Finishing moves of Pacemaker, 4 kbRob Greenwood takes us on a pumpy outing with his 5 favourite E5s. Right Wall? Nope! Strapadictomy? Nope..! So which ones have made the cut?

Rob says: "I know it's arbitrary, but everyone has their favourite grade. Usually it tends to hover around that point between success and failure, that fine line tends to create quite a vivid experience. For me, that grade is E5..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6580

 walksupwalls 15 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice article. Not really normally a stickler for this, but if we're doing 'apologies to the people of Ireland' perhaps you could not immediately describe Fair Head and the Burren as being in Britain. Fair Head is in the United Kingdom, both are arguably in the 'British Isles' but neither are in Britain.
 Jack Geldard 15 Sep 2014
In reply to walksupwalls:

You are quite right, the title was supposed to say UK.

Happy climbing,

Jack
 Tom Briggs 15 Sep 2014
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

V strong list that - hard to disagree with anything on it. Clearly written by someone who has done a lot and knows what he's talking about!
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

> You are quite right, the title was supposed to say UK.

> Happy climbing,

> Jack

The title may have to be changed again on Friday, or the article updated
In reply to walksupwalls: I'm confused by that, so would appreciate an explanation. "Britain" is usually used to talk about the UK where I'm from, but what's the "official" definition?

Also, having looked at it for a few minutes, isn't "britain" just such a funky looking word?

Yeah, great article Rob.
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 15 Sep 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland.

The United Kingdom comprises four countries: England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales but maybe not for much longer?


The British Isles consist of the islands of Great Britain, Ireland and over six thousand smaller isles, and usually include the Isle of Man, Jersey and Guernsey in the Channel Islands.
Post edited at 15:29
 Rory Shaw 15 Sep 2014
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Although I know some Irish folk who understandably don't like the term "British Isles" for obvious reasons. Apparently they are often referred to as "The North Atlantic Archipelago" or more simply as "These Islands"
 Rory Shaw 15 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice article though Rob, but a bit disappointed to see you had no choss from the Llyn on there.
 markalmack 15 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Darkinbad is better than black magic!

both are far better than right wall
 dnichols 16 Sep 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

youtube.com/watch?v=rNu8XDBSn10&

This video should explain it for you.

Excellent article by the way
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good list, though really it's a bit too easy with E5, isn't it?

Off the top of my head, for instance, Mucklehouse Wall, Antiworlds, Il Duce, White Wand and Cephalonia - are we really saying that would be any worse a list?

Or, for that matter, Run of the Arrow, Widespread Ocean of Fear, Edge Lane, Atlantic Ocean Wall and West Route?!

Funny - is it me or is there no really outstanding E5 on Cloggy?

jcm
1
 Bob 16 Sep 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

The only one on Cloggy I can think of is Purrspire which while good isn't *brilliant*. Does seem to be a gap: plenty of good E4s then you jump to E6.

Yeah, lots of brilliant E5s around:

Yorks Lime: Central Wall & Priaprism at Blue Scar; Doubting Thomas
 Tyler 16 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'm not really in a position to comment on this and any list will be personal but if you have to do only one route on the Main Cliff Ordinary Routes takes in the best bits of a number of the classic E5s
 donie 17 Sep 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Top list.If I had to chose a main cliff e5 i'd also go for ordinary route.More enjoyable first pitch than positron,best bit positron,great traverse pitch then best bit citadel.Bliss...
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