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Yesterday James Pearson made the fourth ascent of Rhapsody E11 7a at Dumbarton Rock near Glasgow. Having previously tried the route back in 2008, James returned to Dumbarton and has been attempting the route seriously for the last two weeks - making a very fast repeat of the first E11 in the world.Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69194
In reply to UKC News:
Excellent achievement and good on him for having the balls to get out there and do it. "redeeming himself and regaining his integrity as a climber" though - really ? What about the Pembroke flashes or even the ethical no pegs standpoint of Walk of Life - don't they have any redeeming features for his 'integrity as a climber' or is it all about a naive grading claim 6 years ago ?
Excellent achievement and good on him for having the balls to get out there and do it. "redeeming himself and regaining his integrity as a climber" though - really ? What about the Pembroke flashes or even the ethical no pegs standpoint of Walk of Life - don't they have any redeeming features for his 'integrity as a climber' or is it all about a naive grading claim 6 years ago ?
In reply to GrahamD:
I think it was meant more in relation to his previous input and comments regarding Rhapsody, rather than anything else.
I think it was meant more in relation to his previous input and comments regarding Rhapsody, rather than anything else.
Did Steve McClure really do Rhapsody? Read something about him traversing to the jugs instead of the intended top out Macleod did?
In reply to GrahamD:
6 years is but a split second when in the context of the UK collective climbing memory, which sits snugly between the geologic time scale and cosmic time in terms of length and scope with regards spitefulness and unforgiveness to be the envy of religious fanatics who can only on average go back 2000 years to justify hatred and demanding redress.
6 years is but a split second when in the context of the UK collective climbing memory, which sits snugly between the geologic time scale and cosmic time in terms of length and scope with regards spitefulness and unforgiveness to be the envy of religious fanatics who can only on average go back 2000 years to justify hatred and demanding redress.
In reply to Salvegutt:
He finished slightly to the left of where Dave finished. You can read what Dave thought about it on his blog:
http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Rhapsody
> Did Steve McClure really do Rhapsody? Read something about him traversing to the jugs instead of the intended top out Macleod did?
He finished slightly to the left of where Dave finished. You can read what Dave thought about it on his blog:
http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Rhapsody
In reply to UKC News:
Surely all that means is that Rhapsody is a contrived route and should really be E10.
Surely all that means is that Rhapsody is a contrived route and should really be E10.
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In reply to Salvegutt:
>"Did Steve McClure really do Rhapsody?"
I don't think he did. The route is an eliminate and for what it's worth, in my opinion Steve McClure used "out of bounds" holds.
Not withstanding, managing to climb what he did climb with only a few days practice was pretty impressive. I don't doubt for a minute he could have climbed the Macleod sequence (as Sonnie Trotter did) if he'll been willing to spend more time on the route. Seems like he enjoyed his limited time on the route and was satisfied and content that he'd done. What more would you want out of climbing?
Hopefully James Pearson has embraced the eliminate nature of the route and topped out at a similar point to Macleod/Trotter.
>"Did Steve McClure really do Rhapsody?"
I don't think he did. The route is an eliminate and for what it's worth, in my opinion Steve McClure used "out of bounds" holds.
Not withstanding, managing to climb what he did climb with only a few days practice was pretty impressive. I don't doubt for a minute he could have climbed the Macleod sequence (as Sonnie Trotter did) if he'll been willing to spend more time on the route. Seems like he enjoyed his limited time on the route and was satisfied and content that he'd done. What more would you want out of climbing?
Hopefully James Pearson has embraced the eliminate nature of the route and topped out at a similar point to Macleod/Trotter.
In reply to Kid Spatula:
>"Surely all that means is that Rhapsody is a contrived route and should really be E10."
It's literally a walk in the park if you go round the back. Most rock routes are contrived. More or less.
If you've done everything else what's wrong with "contrived" a new route at your local crag?
>"Surely all that means is that Rhapsody is a contrived route and should really be E10."
It's literally a walk in the park if you go round the back. Most rock routes are contrived. More or less.
If you've done everything else what's wrong with "contrived" a new route at your local crag?
Post edited at 14:02
In reply to JLS:
Really?! Steve says he took a hold with his right that Dave and Sonny took with their left.
"An even sharper edge above this about three feet below the top Dave and Sonny took with their left hand and I used my right. For them a long slap to the top was the final move, for me it was a finger-slicing ‘barn-door’ move to a hold near the arête and then the top."
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articlepages/rhapsody/
> >"Did Steve McClure really do Rhapsody?"
> I don't think he did. The route is an eliminate and for what it's worth, in my opinion Steve McClure used "out of bounds" holds.
Really?! Steve says he took a hold with his right that Dave and Sonny took with their left.
"An even sharper edge above this about three feet below the top Dave and Sonny took with their left hand and I used my right. For them a long slap to the top was the final move, for me it was a finger-slicing ‘barn-door’ move to a hold near the arête and then the top."
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articlepages/rhapsody/
Post edited at 14:08
In reply to UKC News: The lad done good!
Great news. Really glad to hear that James is getting out, cranking hard and hopefully putting to rest any debate about his credentials as one of the UK's top climbers.
Great news. Really glad to hear that James is getting out, cranking hard and hopefully putting to rest any debate about his credentials as one of the UK's top climbers.
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
I don't think there was any serious debate about his credentials as one of the UK's top climbers. At least I hope not. The 'controversy', such as it was, concerned more cultural/personal issues. That's how I see it anyway. The fact was he was repeating hard routes, and climbing LGPs, on the grit at least. No doubt about his credentials here.
I don't think there was any serious debate about his credentials as one of the UK's top climbers. At least I hope not. The 'controversy', such as it was, concerned more cultural/personal issues. That's how I see it anyway. The fact was he was repeating hard routes, and climbing LGPs, on the grit at least. No doubt about his credentials here.
In reply to Tom Briggs:
I've just watched Committed 2, and Steve McClure definitely finished at a different point to Dave's finish, well to the left. Dave took a few falls from the very last hold, and on the attempts I saw him do, could have completed the route quite a bit sooner if he'd taken Steve McCure's route.
I've just watched Committed 2, and Steve McClure definitely finished at a different point to Dave's finish, well to the left. Dave took a few falls from the very last hold, and on the attempts I saw him do, could have completed the route quite a bit sooner if he'd taken Steve McCure's route.
In reply to UKC News:
What French grade does Rhapsody get? I'm just puntering which is the harder Choronzon at E10(8b+)or Rhapsody
What French grade does Rhapsody get? I'm just puntering which is the harder Choronzon at E10(8b+)or Rhapsody
In reply to Fraser:
That maybe what it meant but thats not how it was written. It was written in a way that suggested JP could never be accepted as a climber until this ascent, which is clearly bollox.
And I forgot his fast repeat of equilibrium and the as yet unrepeated the groove to add to all the other things he's done which apparently don't count as redemption as a climber.
> I think it was meant more in relation to his previous input and comments regarding Rhapsody, rather than anything else.
That maybe what it meant but thats not how it was written. It was written in a way that suggested JP could never be accepted as a climber until this ascent, which is clearly bollox.
And I forgot his fast repeat of equilibrium and the as yet unrepeated the groove to add to all the other things he's done which apparently don't count as redemption as a climber.
In reply to UKC News:
Great article. Really enjoyed reading this. No punches pulled. Compelling stuff.
Great article. Really enjoyed reading this. No punches pulled. Compelling stuff.
In reply to ChrisBrooke:
No doubts here either (I've climbed with James) but unfinished business can be (and often is) brought up so it is brilliant news that moving forward his association with Rhapsody will be one of success on the route rather than the previous unwarranted controversy.
> No doubt about his credentials here.
No doubts here either (I've climbed with James) but unfinished business can be (and often is) brought up so it is brilliant news that moving forward his association with Rhapsody will be one of success on the route rather than the previous unwarranted controversy.
In reply to UKC News:
"Rhapsody is hard, it’s really hard in fact, and a giant step up from any Trad route I have done before."
Now why couldn't he have said that (or something similar) before? One cannot help but feel that many would have expected the above to be the case, and of course a few, like MacLeod, have perhaps always known it to be the case. Unfortunately because James had been on this route at the time it really casts the story of The Walk of Life in a murkier light, as in hindsight it does give the sense that his claim to have climbed the hardest trad route in the world wasn't so much down to ignorance (as many wanted to believe, including me) but to some kind of personal trip he was on at the time.
Very well done to James on this repeat, and for admitting past errors.
"Rhapsody is hard, it’s really hard in fact, and a giant step up from any Trad route I have done before."
Now why couldn't he have said that (or something similar) before? One cannot help but feel that many would have expected the above to be the case, and of course a few, like MacLeod, have perhaps always known it to be the case. Unfortunately because James had been on this route at the time it really casts the story of The Walk of Life in a murkier light, as in hindsight it does give the sense that his claim to have climbed the hardest trad route in the world wasn't so much down to ignorance (as many wanted to believe, including me) but to some kind of personal trip he was on at the time.
Very well done to James on this repeat, and for admitting past errors.
In reply to xyz:
8c/+ I think might be the current consensus. By the sounds of it Choronzon may be less safe though.
> What French grade does Rhapsody get? I'm just puntering which is the harder Choronzon at E10(8b+)or Rhapsody
8c/+ I think might be the current consensus. By the sounds of it Choronzon may be less safe though.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
I'd always assumed that from a primarily bouldering and short route background he just didn't have a full appreciation of how the whole route would add up based on what I seem to recall was a fairly short time spent working on the moves. Didn't he say as much about Walk of Life in the end, that he just wasn't comfortable on that sort of route and so completely misinterpreted the overall difficulty?
We all have our prisms that we see things through, whether we are strong, fit, overly used to one sort of climbing, and so on.
Yes, I think it's been very impressive the way he has taken one on the chin (rhapsody/walk of life/promise etc), gone away, worked out "why" he ended up in that situation, fixed it, and has now come back completely reinvented. Lots of people would have just slunk off and kept working on things they could do rather than taking on the challenge of getting better at the things they couldn't.
> "Rhapsody is hard, it’s really hard in fact, and a giant step up from any Trad route I have done before."
> Now why couldn't he have said that (or something similar) before?
> Now why couldn't he have said that (or something similar) before?
I'd always assumed that from a primarily bouldering and short route background he just didn't have a full appreciation of how the whole route would add up based on what I seem to recall was a fairly short time spent working on the moves. Didn't he say as much about Walk of Life in the end, that he just wasn't comfortable on that sort of route and so completely misinterpreted the overall difficulty?
We all have our prisms that we see things through, whether we are strong, fit, overly used to one sort of climbing, and so on.
> Very well done to James on this repeat, and for admitting past errors.
Yes, I think it's been very impressive the way he has taken one on the chin (rhapsody/walk of life/promise etc), gone away, worked out "why" he ended up in that situation, fixed it, and has now come back completely reinvented. Lots of people would have just slunk off and kept working on things they could do rather than taking on the challenge of getting better at the things they couldn't.
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Rhapsody seeks out difficulty. It may be contrived but that is where the route goes, as decided originally by the FA. Go a different way and it may possibly be equally as good or better, but you won't have climbed the route.
Rhapsody seeks out difficulty. It may be contrived but that is where the route goes, as decided originally by the FA. Go a different way and it may possibly be equally as good or better, but you won't have climbed the route.
In reply to Tom Briggs:
Sonny Trotter blogged about Steve's ascent too:
"Did Steve McClure climb Rhapsody? In my opinion no, he did not. He did a slightly easier sequence out left gunning for the arete. He avoided what I think (personally) is the most defining sequence on Rhapsody, the lunge for the top of the wall.
But what he did do was still an UNBELIEVABLE climb, and in only four days, he pretty much showed Dave and I what is possible and set the bar pretty high for any further repeats. I’d be impressed to see anyone climb through the crux faster than Steve did. He’s AMAZING and one of my personal hero’s, but this isn’t about him and what he did or didn’t do, because STEVE doesn’t care anyway, he’s just out there having fun and pulling down, the way it should be."
The full post is here, he addresses the 'eliminate' debate too:
http://sonnietrotter.com/2008/12/20/oh-the-irony/
Sonny Trotter blogged about Steve's ascent too:
"Did Steve McClure climb Rhapsody? In my opinion no, he did not. He did a slightly easier sequence out left gunning for the arete. He avoided what I think (personally) is the most defining sequence on Rhapsody, the lunge for the top of the wall.
But what he did do was still an UNBELIEVABLE climb, and in only four days, he pretty much showed Dave and I what is possible and set the bar pretty high for any further repeats. I’d be impressed to see anyone climb through the crux faster than Steve did. He’s AMAZING and one of my personal hero’s, but this isn’t about him and what he did or didn’t do, because STEVE doesn’t care anyway, he’s just out there having fun and pulling down, the way it should be."
The full post is here, he addresses the 'eliminate' debate too:
http://sonnietrotter.com/2008/12/20/oh-the-irony/
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In reply to daviemj:
I reckon that would involve one of a fairly small number of people committing to living in Lochaber for a while, it's probably in climbable condition about a tenth of the time that Rhapsody is.
Can't wait to see the video of JP on Rhapsody.
I reckon that would involve one of a fairly small number of people committing to living in Lochaber for a while, it's probably in climbable condition about a tenth of the time that Rhapsody is.
Can't wait to see the video of JP on Rhapsody.
In reply to Andy Moles:
Maybe to lead it. Would surely only require a good summer day for someone to chuck a rope down for a play though?
> I reckon that would involve one of a fairly small number of people committing to living in Lochaber for a while
Maybe to lead it. Would surely only require a good summer day for someone to chuck a rope down for a play though?
In reply to JLS:
Yey! It's 2008 all over again. I'm now 26, result!
> >"Did Steve McClure really do Rhapsody?"
> I don't think he did. The route is an eliminate and for what it's worth, in my opinion Steve McClure used "out of bounds" holds.
Yey! It's 2008 all over again. I'm now 26, result!
Post edited at 20:27
In reply to UKC News:
So all this is for a film to make him feel 'redeemed' and happy, oh and also sell whatever gear his sponsors are peddling then?
So all this is for a film to make him feel 'redeemed' and happy, oh and also sell whatever gear his sponsors are peddling then?
Post edited at 20:28
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In reply to Andy Moles:
I was at Dumby on Wednesday but unfortunately I missed James do the route. I had a quick chat with him and he said he took a fall right from the top 'for fun' after completing it. Yikes!
I was at Dumby on Wednesday but unfortunately I missed James do the route. I had a quick chat with him and he said he took a fall right from the top 'for fun' after completing it. Yikes!
In reply to Brendan:
Pff, fair play. I hear he placed gear a bit higher than Dave Mac, but that's still rather more than a slump onto the rope!
Pff, fair play. I hear he placed gear a bit higher than Dave Mac, but that's still rather more than a slump onto the rope!
In reply to Brendan:
A 25m fall for fun?! And if my memory of the E11 film is correct, isn't it on to pretty small gear? Lunatic.
Great news to see him climb this, it was obviously a big deal to him.
A 25m fall for fun?! And if my memory of the E11 film is correct, isn't it on to pretty small gear? Lunatic.
Great news to see him climb this, it was obviously a big deal to him.
In reply to UKC News:
To anyone who might be interested you can watch James take a whipper on our Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152014702452168
As someone said above he took an even bigger fall from the finishing hold, which we filmed in super slo mo but you'll have to wait until the film's out for that one
To anyone who might be interested you can watch James take a whipper on our Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152014702452168
As someone said above he took an even bigger fall from the finishing hold, which we filmed in super slo mo but you'll have to wait until the film's out for that one
In reply to UKC News: Interesting comment from him in his blog:
"I couldn’t take it back, but perhaps I could do something to make up for it? A gesture of good will, or perhaps even a peace offering to the UK climbing community?"
I have no idea who carried out the witch hunt that made him feel like he had to make a "peace offering", but I don't know anyone who thought he had any apologies to make. That's very sad for him if he felt that way, and a complete embarassment for whoever made him think that. So he overgraded a bastard hard route and slagged off a 25ft eliminate - big deal! Whatever the case, it's turned him into one of the best trad climbers in the world.
"I couldn’t take it back, but perhaps I could do something to make up for it? A gesture of good will, or perhaps even a peace offering to the UK climbing community?"
I have no idea who carried out the witch hunt that made him feel like he had to make a "peace offering", but I don't know anyone who thought he had any apologies to make. That's very sad for him if he felt that way, and a complete embarassment for whoever made him think that. So he overgraded a bastard hard route and slagged off a 25ft eliminate - big deal! Whatever the case, it's turned him into one of the best trad climbers in the world.
In reply to UKC News:
Good to see there's still money to be made from making films about how much you regret making money in the past. Why not climb something you actually care about?
Good to see there's still money to be made from making films about how much you regret making money in the past. Why not climb something you actually care about?
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In reply to Franco Cookson:
Not up to your high moral and ethical standards then.....I'm sure that JP will be disappointed.
Not up to your high moral and ethical standards then.....I'm sure that JP will be disappointed.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Well I guess we'll never know for sure whether returning to Rhapsody was just an "angle" pitched to him by Hot Aches or whether he found it genuinely cathartic and something he needed to do. Either way your post comes across a tad uncharitable.
Well I guess we'll never know for sure whether returning to Rhapsody was just an "angle" pitched to him by Hot Aches or whether he found it genuinely cathartic and something he needed to do. Either way your post comes across a tad uncharitable.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
I think the Hot Aches films are some of the best around - they've done a service to the climbing community. If you don't want to buy it, no-one is forcing you.
Also, no doubt he did still harbour some desire to climb the route. You can't do a route like this without really wanting to.
I think the Hot Aches films are some of the best around - they've done a service to the climbing community. If you don't want to buy it, no-one is forcing you.
Also, no doubt he did still harbour some desire to climb the route. You can't do a route like this without really wanting to.
In reply to Frank the Husky:
"Despite dismissing Rhapsody as insignificant and claiming it to be overgraded, James didn't manage to complete the route."
Sounds as though he made himself feel bad. The above is poor form however you want to look at it.
"Despite dismissing Rhapsody as insignificant and claiming it to be overgraded, James didn't manage to complete the route."
Sounds as though he made himself feel bad. The above is poor form however you want to look at it.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Not very much unlike Team America doing something similar on the Groove then.
Not very much unlike Team America doing something similar on the Groove then.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
JP seems to be climbing a lot of the hard trad routes around the UK at the moment. I guess he needs them to be that hard to challenge him with his current strength and fitness. Who knows, maybe he'll head to Yorkshire to test some of your test pieces.
JP seems to be climbing a lot of the hard trad routes around the UK at the moment. I guess he needs them to be that hard to challenge him with his current strength and fitness. Who knows, maybe he'll head to Yorkshire to test some of your test pieces.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
O yeh, I totally agree. I'm not having a go at the film makers at all. It would probably make quite a good film too. I'm just questioning the logic that leads someone to the conclusion that a new all-sponsors-blaring film is the best way to remedy people criticising you for being a self publicist. What ever happened to the humble blog post and the occasional not-for-profit appearance on the BBC?
Maybe the climbing community will "forgive" him. I personally don't really think there's much to forgive on the grading front. He's put up some class-looking routes and given them roughly the grade he thought they were. Nowt wrong with that at all. I would like to see an apology from him for sucking the soul out of the British climbing scene though.
O yeh, I totally agree. I'm not having a go at the film makers at all. It would probably make quite a good film too. I'm just questioning the logic that leads someone to the conclusion that a new all-sponsors-blaring film is the best way to remedy people criticising you for being a self publicist. What ever happened to the humble blog post and the occasional not-for-profit appearance on the BBC?
Maybe the climbing community will "forgive" him. I personally don't really think there's much to forgive on the grading front. He's put up some class-looking routes and given them roughly the grade he thought they were. Nowt wrong with that at all. I would like to see an apology from him for sucking the soul out of the British climbing scene though.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Even for UKC that's hilariously over the top
> I would like to see an apology from him for sucking the soul out of the British climbing scene though.
Even for UKC that's hilariously over the top
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Really Franco? Your comments have no relation to reality! I presume they are some sort of troll… in which case I guess they have worked.(Damm!)
In reality (at least the reality I experience, yours may be different James came to me last year saying he wanted to repeat Rhapsody and asked if I would be interested in filming it. Initially I was not keen, I explained that I had already included it in several films. It was only during at meal at ShAFF when he explained the full significance of the route that I saw the potential for a film and understood the story arc.
Franco I will send you a free DL once the film is released, I would love to hear your thoughts on the finished piece.
Really Franco? Your comments have no relation to reality! I presume they are some sort of troll… in which case I guess they have worked.(Damm!)
In reality (at least the reality I experience, yours may be different James came to me last year saying he wanted to repeat Rhapsody and asked if I would be interested in filming it. Initially I was not keen, I explained that I had already included it in several films. It was only during at meal at ShAFF when he explained the full significance of the route that I saw the potential for a film and understood the story arc.
Franco I will send you a free DL once the film is released, I would love to hear your thoughts on the finished piece.
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In reply to diff:
Oh the added benefits of being a prodigal son ! Franco would probably need to spurn such a 'commercially tainted' offer though and he will see sense eventually anyhow.
Like Graham I'm interested in the lack of a repeat for The Groove.... it was the top that stopped others as well.
Oh the added benefits of being a prodigal son ! Franco would probably need to spurn such a 'commercially tainted' offer though and he will see sense eventually anyhow.
Like Graham I'm interested in the lack of a repeat for The Groove.... it was the top that stopped others as well.
In reply to Offwidth:
It's the squeaky wheel which gets the oil
> Oh the added benefits of being a prodigal son...
It's the squeaky wheel which gets the oil
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In reply to diff:
I think franco's post was just a way of mentioning in passing that he's going to be on the telly soon...
I think franco's post was just a way of mentioning in passing that he's going to be on the telly soon...
In reply to GrahamD:
I don't think Kevin J slagged off the route? And at least he climbed something, if not actually the whole route itself. A more appropriate comparison for him might be with McClure's ascent of Rhapsody?
> Not very much unlike Team America doing something similar on the Groove then.
I don't think Kevin J slagged off the route? And at least he climbed something, if not actually the whole route itself. A more appropriate comparison for him might be with McClure's ascent of Rhapsody?
In reply to Offwidth:
Have there been other repeat attempts?
> Like Graham I'm interested in the lack of a repeat for The Groove.... it was the top that stopped others as well.
Have there been other repeat attempts?
In reply to Michael Gordon:
He suggested a downgrade without having done the route which is pretty much what you are accusing JP of with Rhapsody
He suggested a downgrade without having done the route which is pretty much what you are accusing JP of with Rhapsody
In reply to GrahamD:
Point taken, though I do think there is a significant difference between leading an easier version of a route and just having a play on a toprope.
Point taken, though I do think there is a significant difference between leading an easier version of a route and just having a play on a toprope.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
So your having a go at JP for being an over the top self publicist who claims wild grades for things?
Pot. Kettle.
Andy F
So your having a go at JP for being an over the top self publicist who claims wild grades for things?
Pot. Kettle.
Andy F
Post edited at 18:50
In reply to andy farnell:
In Franco's defence for the style he climbed his nominal E10 onsight grade was confirmed and with specialist filed down gear and tough E9 its hardly mass grade inflation, plus he clearly wasnt doing it linked to any sponsorship.
In Franco's defence for the style he climbed his nominal E10 onsight grade was confirmed and with specialist filed down gear and tough E9 its hardly mass grade inflation, plus he clearly wasnt doing it linked to any sponsorship.
In reply to UKC News:
I thought I saw Dave MacLeod near Dumby on Friday afternoon, but dismissed itThis is making more sense)
> Yesterday James Pearson made the fourth ascent of Rhapsody E11 7a at Dumbarton Rock near Glasgow. Having previously tried the route back in 2008, James returned to Dumbarton and has been attempting the route seriously for the last two weeks - making a very fast repeat of the first E11 in the world.
I thought I saw Dave MacLeod near Dumby on Friday afternoon, but dismissed itThis is making more sense)
In reply to Offwidth: Erm, it wasn't. It was E8, soloed. Still, an E8 solo is decent going. Doesn't change the pointlessness of his comments above. He may not court sponsorship, but his incessant need for self promotion on this website isn't dissimilar to the things he is bleating on about.
Andy F
Andy F
In reply to Jim C:
He's been on the sport project right of Requiem recently.
> I thought I saw Dave MacLeod near Dumby on Friday afternoon, but dismissed itThis is making more sense)
He's been on the sport project right of Requiem recently.
In reply to andy farnell:
I don't know why I have to defend myself. If you notice above I didn't have a go at JP for making up wild grades, quite the contrary. The routes I've put up that have been repeated have nearly all been confirmed at the grade. The odd one has seen a suggested down-grade with gear I didn't use. Some have seen suggested upgrades - Like the Hypocrisy of Moose (which was widely criticised at the time for being overgraded). Let's also remember that grades work on consensus. Dave commented at the time that Psykovsky's Sequins was harder than routes like A Thousand Setting Suns, so I think a degree of caution wouldn't go a miss when branding things "a grade".
I don't know how you can possibly accuse me of being a self publicist. The last time UKC contacted me to report Sky Burial I said I wasn't interested. I don't have a blog and I post on here about once a month.
To Diff: Thanks for the free DL.
I don't know why I have to defend myself. If you notice above I didn't have a go at JP for making up wild grades, quite the contrary. The routes I've put up that have been repeated have nearly all been confirmed at the grade. The odd one has seen a suggested down-grade with gear I didn't use. Some have seen suggested upgrades - Like the Hypocrisy of Moose (which was widely criticised at the time for being overgraded). Let's also remember that grades work on consensus. Dave commented at the time that Psykovsky's Sequins was harder than routes like A Thousand Setting Suns, so I think a degree of caution wouldn't go a miss when branding things "a grade".
I don't know how you can possibly accuse me of being a self publicist. The last time UKC contacted me to report Sky Burial I said I wasn't interested. I don't have a blog and I post on here about once a month.
To Diff: Thanks for the free DL.
Post edited at 09:31
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Nobody else knows why either...
> I don't know why I have to defend myself.
Nobody else knows why either...
Post edited at 11:25
1
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Don't bother Franco, you seem to attract some of the serial prats on here. IIRC you may have got off to a dodgy start
> I don't know why I have to defend myself...
Don't bother Franco, you seem to attract some of the serial prats on here. IIRC you may have got off to a dodgy start
In reply to JLS:
also steve mclure did it with pre placed gear. which is another reason it took him less time
also steve mclure did it with pre placed gear. which is another reason it took him less time
In reply to Nialkel:
>"also steve mclure did it with pre placed gear"
Sounds like JP went the whole hog. Chapeau.
http://onceuponaclimb.co.uk/portfolio-posts/return-rhapsody/
>"also steve mclure did it with pre placed gear"
Sounds like JP went the whole hog. Chapeau.
http://onceuponaclimb.co.uk/portfolio-posts/return-rhapsody/
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