UKC

On Saturday 27th September French climber Caroline Ciavaldini made an ascent of Dave Cuthbertson's Requiem E8 6b at Dumbarton Rock near Glasgow.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69197

In reply to UKC News:

Good work! Is that the first female ascent?

In reply to UKC News:

I was there, she made it look pretty easy!

In reply to UKC News:

Excellent, and she always sounds so positive.

In reply to UKC News:

I must confess to loving her a bit. Propper 15 year old crush territory. I've told my wife, she forgives me.

Bloody impressive.

In reply to UKC News:

Wonder when this will get onsighted? Of course, what would have been two prime candidates for this ended up going for Rhapsody.

In reply to tony:


Almost certainly.

In reply to UKC News:

Nice. Hopefully we'll see some footage of the ascent soon?

In reply to Michael Gordon:

There is an excellent story from years back of Craig Parneby (not sure if thats how you spell it?) who fell off the last move on the onsight! Not sure exact year... Don't think anyone has come anywhere near as close since? Not sure if anybody has tried?

In reply to Robbie_Phillips:

Didn't Will Atkinson try it onsight, but ended up ground-upping it.

In reply to Robbie_Phillips:


Go on Robbie. You know you want to! Now that you are a trad climber

In reply to Robbie_Phillips:

I didn't think that Craig Parnaby fell of anything. It must be hard.

In reply to Steve Crowe:

He fell off an E5 I was belaying him on onto my RPs, which he had insisted that I place for him (via abseil I hasten to add - I can't climb that hard!) as he hadn't tried RPs before!

In reply to Jon Read:


Yes, first ground-up ascent - a superb achievement.

In reply to UKC News:

Just for the historical record, was this a trad ascent, placing gear on lead (E8 6b) or a redpoint with all gear in place (f8a/8a+)?

Thanks

Graham

In reply to Graham Hoey:

Good question. I note the photo shows at least one bit of gear in place if we assume the photo taken during was the successful accent.

In reply to Graham Hoey:

Graham,I have been told it was ground up but I am not sure of the gear situation...In the photos I have seen she is placing gear but that doesn't mean she did each time. I will try to find out...

In reply to Richie Patterson, Wild Country:

To be fair in the picture there's an extender about 15 foot above her head, so I guess it was on preplaced gear?

In reply to mike kann:

But equally she's also got gear on her harness which suggests she's going to be placing it.

Is the piece that is insitu is the crucial Rhapsody RP?

In reply to JLS:

Damn, I've been looking everywhere for that! Sorry guys, must have left it insitu in all that excitement of going for the o/s.

In reply to Fraser:
You know your really should clean your chalk after an ascent. My day was spoiled when, last week, I arrived at Dumby to find Requiem just plastered in your white powder. It was immediately obvious that any on-sight attempt would be so compromised by the trail of chalk that my claim would have been laughed at. Now it will probably take all winter before the route is in a fit state for a proper o/s attempt.

In reply to JLS:

can't work out if you left out a ":p" at the end of your post?

In reply to Graham Hoey:

Graham, direct from the horses mouth: gear was placed on lead on the ascent and on every go. Was climbed ground up - none of it top roped - with falls (quite a lot of falls). The piece that can be seen in the picture above her head is a random piece left in by James. All will be seen in the movie of the ascent.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I had a vague idea that Sonnie Trotter onsighted Requiem as part of his Rhapsody onslaught - sure I remember reading that he's climbed it first go. He could have abseiled inspected first though, or I could have mis-read/mis-remembered.

In reply to Richie Patterson, Wild Country:

Hi Ritchie.
Thanks for the info. That makes it a really significant ascent. It's one thing ground-upping an f8a/8a+, a completely different and much more difficult effort to place trad gear on a line of that difficulty. Caroline and James are becoming the most talented trad climbers globally. Great to see.