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Greece Climbing Destination Recommendations

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 Lh88 30 Sep 2014

Morning, I'm looking for some destination beta for a road-trip round Greece + islands with the other half. We're thinking of heading to Meteora at the start and probably Kalymnos later on; but we're struggling to find info on much else in between!

We're hoping to spend some time island hopping, and looking for any recommendations for those little gems people have found along the way!

Cheers,
Luke
Post edited at 11:10
 scott titt 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Lh88:

how about argolis? http://www.bolt-products.com/ClimbArgolis.htm

there is limestone sport near meteora and recent development around athens as well
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Lh88:

There is a new guidebook out shortly - a Best of Greece - by Aris, the guy who does the Kalymnos guide.


Chris
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 30 Sep 2014
In reply to jimtitt:

2004? That must be pretty dated info in there?


Chris
 Iain Peters 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Lh88:
Some might disagree but for me Varasova near Mesalonghi is a great crag. Sport and Trad with Shining Path one of the best multi-pitch slab and face climbing routes in the eastern Med region. 19 pitches broken at halfway by a ledge system. The topo guide (English/Greek) is available at the taverna 2 minutes' away from the base of the crag for the price of a meal of fresh fish straight off the boat. Free camping is found on a grassy sward by the beach with a spring of fresh water emerging from the base of the mountain.Locals from Patras and Athens go there at w/es but the scene is very friendly.

It's a 21/2 drive from Meteora on good roads and as Scott has mentioned could be combined with climbing at Argolis and the various sport crags around Kalamata and Patras before taking in Athens (new guide out) en route to Kalymnos. The Pelion mountains on the E side of the mainland also have some sport venues in the numerous gorges. It's a fabulous area of deep valleys, forests of chestnut and beech,and unique architecture, well worth a visit. Aris Theodoropoulos is the main man for all Greek climbing.
Post edited at 15:32
 Carless 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Lh88:

This http://climbing-leonidio.com/en.html may be worth a visit, but I don't know anyone who's been there yet
 jimtitt 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Sure but by default the best resource for an overview of most Greek climbing.
 carl dawson 30 Sep 2014
Think Best of Greece is now out. See climbkalymnos.com
OP Lh88 30 Sep 2014
In reply to All:

Great, thanks everyone. In other words a lifetime of stuff to be going at!

I'll be sure to check out some of the recommendations above and get hold of the climbgreece guide, which looks as though it might become the bible for the trip.

It's quite specific, but could anyone recommend a good DWS spot in the region?

 Garrouli 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Lh88:

Hi Luke,

Around the trikala region there is little gorge and mouzaki, both are excellent sport climbing crags. Up in the north, an hour from Thessaloniki is Kavala which offers both sport and trad by the sea. Further north, near Bulgaria is Blue Zinas cave which offers super steep pocket pulling though the easiest/best routes here are 7a+ and above.

Around Athens are a plethora of crags (check out the newly published Athens guide book) with my favourite being Mavrosouvala.

In the Peloponnesus, Lagada and Nedousa both have really good sport climbing and are good for summer climbing due to their altitude.

And there's the new crags at Leonidia which I spent a day at early this year. We went to the twin caves sector and it was amazing - super steep tufa pulling! I am heading back there at Christmas/year to check out the other crags in the area. It has been plugged as the next Kalymnos, though the only problem are the aspects of the crags there meaning that its too hot after March to climb there. That is worth bearing in mind with a lot of crags in Greece.

And then the islands.....other than Kalymnos, I know Crete has some sport though haven't tried it and some boulders have just been opened on Ikeria. Hoping to check them out next year. There is also bouldering in Tinos which has lots of potential but never seemed to take off.

For info, try climbing-Greece website and there is also one for Leonidia. If you need any more help/local topos, let me know!
 Garrouli 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Lh88:

Oh yeah, forgot to mention Nafplio which I visited ages ago and had some really cool routes though I believe some of these areas might be banned now.
 Garrouli 30 Sep 2014
In reply to Lh88:

And as mentioned above, Pelion has some climbing too. The pau cave has the best quality climbing though had some dubious bolting - one bolt lower-offs, etc. This may have changed though. We also went to another crag there, which was good, though I forget its name. The scenery around Pelion mountain is beautiful and there are some good beaches too.
 Aris 01 Oct 2014
In reply to Lh88:

We are happy to annoounce that new guidebook ‘GREECE SPORT CLIMBING: THE BEST OF’ it is already published and available.
Also we run the new web site www.climbgreece.com
Cheers from sunny Meteora,

Aris

 Iain Peters 01 Oct 2014
In reply to Aris:
Fantastic Aris! Congratulations. I'll definitely buy a copy next time I'm over. By the way, have you visited the crags above Astokos? Two or three years ago we sailed into the port and opened 5 or 6 trad single and multi pitch trad routes to 6b+ all on sight. Somewhere I have the descriptions! I can also send you a small guide to the amazing island of Oxia north of Varasova. We have been there, again by boat on two occasions and there are now about 12 routes mostly trad but one multi-pitch 6c+ sport route.

Unfortunately this small, uninhabited jewel of the Ionian has been sold to the Emir of Qatar who intends to develop it as a luxury tourist and "cultural" centre, so access may soon be impossible.
Post edited at 10:01
 Aris 02 Oct 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:

Thank you Iain. No, not visited Astakos area yet.Please send me the descriptions and the small guide to Oxia (at least for my arhive)...
 jim jones 02 Oct 2014
In reply to Lh88:

Rhodes is also worth a couple of days. I managed a day at Ladiko on a family holiday a couple of years ago.

http://www.rodosclimb.info/
 Iain Peters 03 Oct 2014
In reply to Aris:

Will do Aris. Am going to the Ionian in a week or so for work. Is the guide available in Patras?
 Aris 03 Oct 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:
I am sorry, it is not available in Patras yet.
We can send it to you by post there though.
OP Lh88 07 Oct 2014
In reply to Aris:
Just picked the guide up at Alpamayopro in Athens. On first impressions a really beautiful and user freindly book, thanks! We are hoping to head to meteors, leonidio and hopefully Anafi. Thanks everyone for the beta. L
Post edited at 17:07
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 07 Oct 2014
In reply to Lh88:

We actually tried to go to Anafi later this month (wasn't aware there was any climbing there) but the hotel we tried to book at basically said the island was shut for the season!



Chris

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