UKC

Dream / Liberator tidy up

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 Andy2 10 Oct 2014
Following this thread,
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=596069
I decide to abseil down Dream/Liberator today.

I managed to extract seven in situ nuts. Two from the top pitch, and five from the vertical crack beneath the crux overhang. There was one I couldn’t shift, and the remains of a peg which wouldn’t shift either. (If you haven’t done it, the crack is about two feet long!)

I reckon you should now be able to get some good wires in, so it should be a slightly less traumatic proposition.

Then I went home and had a beer.
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

I think the BMC has a vacancy for you.
 Kafoozalem 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

Nice work Andy.
 Misha 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

I did it recently and don't remember any in situ gear. May be the odd nut or two but certainly not five below the overhang! I don't recall a vertical crack below it anyway - so I'm confused!
 jon 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Misha:

Maybe one of you wasn't on Dream Liberator?
 Tom Last 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

Well done Andy - hope you're well mate.
OP Andy2 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Misha:

> I did it recently and don't remember any in situ gear. May be the odd nut or two but certainly not five below the overhang! I don't recall a vertical crack below it anyway - so I'm confused!

Not all five were immediately recognisable as nuts - none had intact loops of wire - but when they came out you could see they were various vintages of small nuts. You probably couldn't see the crack because it was full of old junk!
 tim newton 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

Nice one, thanks Andy
 Misha 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

Ah, right! I remember some bits of rust below the roof. Definitely nothing you could clip. So the gear was in the vague horizontal break below, where the rest on the arête is. Looked a bit so-so but held fine when I fell off! If the 'new' gear placements are significantly closer to the crux, it might be E3 (again) now but still bloody hard at 6a!
 Dan Arkle 10 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

Good work
 Graham Hoey 11 Oct 2014
In reply to Andy2:

Good effort.

Graham
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