UKC

First Lead Rope - Any help?

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 mattck 25 Oct 2014
Hey,

So looking at buying my first rope for starting to lead indoors. Ideally want as durable rope as possible, but nice and cheap as I don't know where the sport will take me etc.

Looking at a few, though not sure if 30m will suffice for indoor leading, or if I should go for 35 or 40m rope.

http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/climbing-ropes/mammut-promo-9-5mm-x-30...

http://www.rockrun.com/mammut-astral-10mm-35m

http://bouldersuk.com/climbing-shop/beal-yuji

Swaying towards the Astral at the moment, but wondering which you guys reckon would be a better buy? Open to other suggestions around the same price range-ish.

Cheers for any help!
 PPP 25 Oct 2014
In reply to mattcooperkay:

Where do you usually climb? If you are anywhere in Scotland, you will end up travelling to EICA Ratho one day. A 50/60 metre rope is needed there. I suppose you will be climbing sport outdoors too, so you will need a longer rope anyway (though 35m rope is usually okay for sport outdoor as well).

DMM Shorty is probably the best short rope I ever used. I own Beal Edlinger which is okay rope and it's cheap enough. If I had to buy another single rope for indoors use, it would definitely be DMM Shorty.
 Hyphin 25 Oct 2014
In reply to mattcooperkay:

+1 for 60m, bought a 40m and now regret it. Not just for Ratho, at some crags eg lower Glen Lednock, you need the longer rope. Doesn't have to be a big hassle at smaller venues either, flake out what you need coil the rest and tie off; but do check before tying .
needvert 26 Oct 2014
In reply to mattcooperkay:

I think the astral is a good option. I have a 30m that I use as my indoor rope. Taking a 50 or 60m is notably more bulky and heavy. Indoor ropes get a lot of abuse, and I'd rather that wear goes into the cheap rope than the expensive 60m.
 PPP 26 Oct 2014
In reply to Hyphin:

I actually didn't mean to suggest a 60m rope. Simply because it's too much faff! Cheap indoors rope and then something nicer for outdoors/Ratho. Personally, I couldn't even carry a 60m rope 2-5 times a week as I work in early mornings, go to the uni and only then go climbing. 35m rope already takes about third of the space in the 30l rucksack. Then harness, spare clothing, lunch, work+uni stuff and I have virtually no space left in the rucksack.
 Otis 26 Oct 2014
In reply to mattcooperkay:
Phone up the walls you'll likely be visiting and ask them what minimum rope length you will need. 30m is fine for many walls, but not long enough for some.

Buy a rope from a known company, avoid the bells and whistles (dry treatment etc.) and I'm sure you'll be more than happy with it as an indoor rope.
Post edited at 07:56
OP mattck 26 Oct 2014
Thanks for the replies guys.

Think I'll stick to a shorter rope for now - would rather invest in a better rope for outdoors than have a decent multi-use that'll get knackered from indoors.

Also, living in Norfolk, reckon outdoors will be a rarity!

Think I'll end up going for the Astral - seems, from what I can see, to be slightly better than the Promo?

 Kevster 26 Oct 2014
In reply to mattcooperkay:

I'd go with cheap for indoors (though always a reputable brand). Starting out you are not likely to take a whipper every route you climb, unlike some one working a route who has been climbing for a while and is happy with repeatedly taking many falls. It is repeated falls/fast descent which ages ropes quickly.
You'll get a few years use out of it before you think of upgrading, by then if you still climb, you'll be looking at using your old (possibly by then cut down) outside rope for indoors and getting the a nice new, springy one for outside.

For my rope choice - I prefer mammut to DMM as they seem to last longer. And prefer Mammut/DMM to beal as beal seems to twist badly for me. I also like edelrid for a cheap rope.
Having said that, they are all reputable brands.
Thick ropes last longer in general.

K
 JSH 26 Oct 2014
In reply to mattcooperkay:

the beal yuji is good its 50m and 10mm wide. i use it for anything i can use a single rope on. hasn't got stiff .

http://www.joe-brown.com/294/products/beal-yuji-10mm-x-50m-single-rope.aspx

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