UKC

Hi all,

I've recently returned to climbing after a gap. The next step for me is to learn to lead climb so I wondered how others learnt- is it better to learn indoors or outdoors?

Laura

In reply to laura howarth:

Horses for course really, depends what you want to do, the most accessible way in Sheffield is always going to be indoors, however from that point there is a lot more going on with trad. Most people tend to pair up with a partner of various experience. Then there's the club route, or your could put up a post on here I'm sure there would be lots of folk willing to meet up. Or you could pay your money and do a course. I guess at the end of the day you need to climb with someone that you feel comfortable with to hold your ropes.

Have fun stay safe!

edit typo.

In reply to laura howarth:

Well I'm biased... I think getting on a course is a good way to learn, you can see my website via my profile...

A couple of days with a decent instructor will give you a good start to then go and find competent people to go out climbing with and get addicted to climbing!

In reply to laura howarth:
My view is that there are two distinct aspects to learning to lead and they are quite different whether they are learnt via instruction or self taught.
I would first plump for leading routes indoors at your current standard to get the habit of clipping and the mind set of being above gear and possibly falling - perhaps even practising a fall so it is not a new experience.
But the biggest step is to be able to place good protection, easily, reliably, safely and I honestly believe this is the biggest step.
For this I think you need to find lots of easy climbs with good placements and learn what fits where then repeat those routes using some of the good ones but also finding the more marginal ones.
Once you feel confident choose routes that are known for good protection and work up to your indoor standard on those. Only then I would move onto more unknown climbs where the protection might be more sparse.
As a final point I would offer the view that not everyone wants to be scared and if top-roping on the wall gives you the good feelings you want - why lead?

In reply to laura howarth:
Whether you learn to lead indoors or outdoors will be dependant on where you'd likely be doing most of your future climbing. If you are likely to climb only indoors, I'd recommend an indoor based learn to lead. This will be a relatively straightforward course and may well involve an element of planned falling off.
If you're wanting to venture onto outdoor crags then skip the indoor course and get straight onto the crags. As mentioned already, well protected routes are your best starting point for actual leads, but plenty of seconding is the ideal pre-cursor to this, you'll learn loads just by seconding.
There are many instructors all around the country and a course with an instructor can be very worthwhile. I am one such instructor, base in the Lake District but also run courses in the Peak District, Snowdonia, and Southern Spain.

Good luck with it.

In reply to laura howarth:

ive found its best to do both; lead outside when you go out, and lead everything when you climb indoors too. Even your warm ups. You have to train your head as much as your muscles.
Try working your hardest grade on lead (once you've got the gist lol) but as to which first, go with whatever option presents itself.
Climb with more experienced people, and if you can't get on a course asap, or fish for partners on here. The best practice is just doing it, but having a competent and confident person around is gonna be key, help you relax, give you beta, rescue your gear if you can't do the redpoint and just generally give you the confidence to "go for it". Even once you know the theory of leading and have practiced, you can still get caught by that head trap. Have fun!

In reply to laura howarth:

If wanting to do trad, best start leading outside along with seconding routes. When indoors, lead there as well.

If wanting to mainly do sport climbing I reckon best to learn initially indoors as bolts can be more spaced outside, more chance of hitting ledges and you need to figure out how to lower off.

In reply to laura howarth:

if your wall has good instructors (not just some teenagers getting money for a gap year), a course is well worth it. It won't tell you how to lead indoors, but it gives you really good practice and the transition to outdoors is not hard to learn from mates.