UKC

Hey guys.

Thinking of heading to Australia in Feb/March time to climb. I climb HS/VS and my partner climbs E1.

Has anyone got any recommendations of one over the other? Currently thinking Tas due to weather. But would really welcome any reviews.

Thanks

In reply to inspiration_needed:
It really depends what you're looking for. Tasmania has a lot of good climbing, though the crags may demand more of a walk-in and may not be so user-friendly (ie a bit more of a traditional climbing adventure. The crags are often very unfrequented. Some demand a full scale expedition to get to, ploughing through swamps and things (Frenchman's Cap, for instance, not that I've been.)
At Arapiles on the other hand, you are likely to spend much more time actually climbing, and there is an endless supply of brilliant climbs in your grade range. You can drive to virtually the foot of the climb.
I've done a lot of climbs in your grade range at The Mount (as locals call it) so if you want any recommendations I may be able to help.
You mention weather - are you thinking it might be too hot at Arapiles? Feb/March is a pretty good time there.
The Grampians are quite close too, where it tends to be a few degrees cooler.

In reply to Rog Wilko: Haven't climbed in Tasmania but Arapiles has the best VSs I have ever done.

In reply to inspiration_needed:

Thanks guys

In reply to inspiration_needed:

Tasmania is, by all accounts a great place, but if you're looking for a really characteristically Aussie climbing experience, then I'd head for Arapiles or the Grampians. (As other have said, Tasmania would be great if you're into having an expedition and dicing with weather.) The Grampians, especially in the southern areas, eg Mt Rosea, are likely to be cooler than Arapiles, but if you pay attention to the aspect of climbs, you should be OK.

Not been to Tasmania and only walked in the Grampians...

Have spent a few days in the Arapiles and the climbing is amazing, absolutely world class.

You can climb in the Arapiles around the sun but when it is very hot you suffer generally. The campsite is very nice, shady but when it is hot you inevitably get lots of flies and a fire ban which reduces the charm.

You need a full lead kit for the Arapiles and it eats lots of gear so a big rack is frequently the norm. Also acquire a few clip on bolt hangers - I think the Grampians is more sport orientated and I don't know about Tasmania.

My advice is stay, though, is to stay flexible - if it is too hot rethink - that said it was 30+C (December) when I went and by choosing the routes according to the time of day it was fine. The time before (also December) it was >40C and no one was climbing.

In reply to inspiration_needed:

Araps is fantastic, had the best ttime ever there !

In reply to inspiration_needed:

Climbed both in Arapiles/Grampions & Tasmania, they are like chalk & cheese being mostly widely different experiences.
Tasmania is certainly more effort, having longer approaches, leeches, dense undergrowth but wondefully satisfying if you get the weather although the Freycinet Peninsula is probably the sofest option available that I visted whilst in Tasmania.
Arapiles by the other hand is a holiday, no stress option, with lots of quality climbing a mere stroll away from the campsite.
Its a difficult call, but depending on your time scale, you would be struggling to fully experience both in just a quick holiday, better to just visit one venue & leave the other venue for a return trip.

In reply to walts4:



the Freycinet Peninsula is probably the sofest option available that I visted whilst in Tasmania.



But you wouldn't go half way round the world to climb on the Freycinet sea cliffs. Or if you did you'd be disappointed. Cornwall and Pembroke are ten times better, despite all the fuss that the locals make of Freycinet.

Having said that, the camp site wild-life at Freycinet is truly amazing.

In reply to Rog Wilko:
.

Exactly...Met a local who been bitten on the calf by a brown snake whilst there & he somehow managed to survive.
Looked like he'd been attacked with a gas axe to the calf, it wasn't a pretty sight!

In reply to inspiration_needed:

Going to Australia for most of Feb / March - seeing family, general holiday and as much up-to-HVS climbing as we can squeeze in. http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Climbing (Tasmania) and http://www.chockstone.org/chockstone.asp (Victoria) have been useful sites for planning climbing from the opposite side of the globe. I'm still getting my head around south facing crags being the cool ones.

Will be in Tasmania in Feb, Victoria when it's cooled down a bit in March. Currently the Victoria National Parks Service is still showing the most popular (easy & accessible) Grampians climbing site as being out of bounds following a big fire early this year. But really looking forward to at least a week at Arapiles.

In reply to phantom whistler:

Only a week?

In reply to phantom whistler:



My daughter works for Vic Parks - if you want any up-to-date info on Grampians access just let me know.

In reply to inspiration_needed:

Can't comment on Tasmania, unfortunately, and only spent a day in Arapiles. That said if you want to spend a lot of time on the rock and on an amazing crag, Arapiles will not let you down. Wonderful wonderful place.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Thanks. I may check with you closer to departure.