UKC

the tempest gear, rivelin

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 ashtond6 13 Nov 2014
Rivelin Edge The Tempest (E5 6a)

Anyone know which peg I need for this? Need to go and buy it.

I have some angles but I assume it's a knife blade

Also, are the RPs and the 0 cam any good?

 mark20 13 Nov 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

Seem to remember my mate putting a sling round the flake which he though was alright, and one of my pegs pointing down the back of it further left. Think it was the blade peg, you can borrow them if you want
OP ashtond6 13 Nov 2014
In reply to mark20:

Thanks, that would be awesome! Where/when?
Is the flake 'relatively' solid?
 mark20 13 Nov 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

I think it was OK
Have emailed you
 Theo Moore 14 Nov 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

When do you plan to do it? Might get in on the peg hype!
 overdrawnboy 14 Nov 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

Graham used my Chouinard Long Dong nut key on the first ascent.
 LakesWinter 14 Nov 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

I seconded this route, I think the peg was a little thicker than a blade but not an angle, the sling was better than the peg imho, but the flake it's all in is shady! There is some more gear higher up but after several hard moves protected by the sling/peg combo
 Graham Hoey 14 Nov 2014
In reply to overdrawnboy:

Hi Nick,

Ah, memories! I remember thinking it was too much of an eliminate. Looks OK now, how times change!

I was teaching a lad called Michael Tempest at the time who also climbed. He hoped I'd named the route after him, and was a bit disappointed when I pointed out it was next to Blizzard Ridge. I gave it E5 for an on-sight and it was quickly downgraded, but I always thought if you were 5 ft 7" it was probably worth E5. Definitely easier if you could reach the break.

Cheers
Graham
 mtempest 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Graham Hoey:

Hi Graham

I'm still disappointed! Still climbing when I can and have fond memories of the school climbing club. So big thanks to you and Kev Flint for getting me into climbing.

Cheers

Mike (Tempest)
 dr_botnik 15 Nov 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

Looked a bit necky to me for the lead, don't think the lower gear would protect the 6a section, but you'd be able to see the placement for the small cam, its not blind or anything just really high above the last gear.
 robandian 15 Nov 2014
In reply to overdrawnboy:

Hi Nick - saw your post and couldn't not see how you are doing. The brothers Hirst still going strong (weak!) and meeting today at Derby wall as its too wet even for Stoney (our new go to venue!!!)
 Graham Hoey 15 Nov 2014
In reply to robandian:

Impossible! The brothers Hirst could never be weak!

Best wishes to you all

Graham
 robandian 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Graham Hoey:

funnily enough Terry got up a 7b cos we couldn't read the grade and thought it was much easier - sign of the times
In reply to ashtond6:

I didn't bother with a peg. Just used a big sling and some WC zero cams.

Good luck with it.
 overdrawnboy 17 Nov 2014
In reply to Graham Hoey:
> (In reply to overdrawnboy)
>
> Hi Nick,
>
> Ah, memories! I remember thinking it was too much of an eliminate. Looks OK now, how times change!
>
> I gave it E5 for an on-sight and it was quickly downgraded, but I always thought if you were 5 ft 7" it was probably worth E5. Definitely easier if you could reach the break.
>
> Cheers
> Graham

Hi Graham

Major independent feature up a blank wall!!

Felt ruddy hard to me at the time even at 6` plus!

Nic
 overdrawnboy 17 Nov 2014
In reply to robandian:
> (In reply to Graham Hoey)
>
> funnily enough Terry got up a 7b cos we couldn't read the grade and thought it was much easier - sign of the times

I guess his arms are holding out better than his eyesight!!
Mine are both pretty rubbish now.
Cheers to you all
Nic

OP ashtond6 04 Dec 2014
In reply to theomoore:

Hi Theo,

This weekend... providing this weather holds!
 mrchewy 04 Dec 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

It will Jonny... and we'll be ready!
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