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Of all Scotland's iconic winter mountains, Lochnagar holds perhaps the greatest mystique. Isolated from the honeypot venues of the Northern Corries to the north, and guarded by its long windswept walk-in the great north-east corrie feels in another age, a brooding pagan god opening its granite jaws to tempt trespass by the brave.
Modern gear has done little to tame this beast. Bottomless powder, crusty ice, verglas, smooth slabs, rounded bulges and blind seams offer equally insecure purchase to todays leashless axes and monopoints as given to the triconis and slaters hammers of early pioneers.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6853
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