UKC

Has anyone been to either of the destinations above?

Thinking of a trip to either or both next year.

What's the best time of year for a trip?

I have a Spanish Guidebook for the Sierra de Gredos, which looks fantastic, but all the info is in Spanish.

Most of the climbing seems to be based from a hut (Victory hut). Can anyone tell me how well equipped the hut is, and if it's wardened? Do you need to book in advance and if not are there usually beds available mid week or does it get crowded?

Any any other info would be great too.

Thanks Elsie

In reply to Elsier:

hi,

I went to the Picos a few years ago, I wrote up the trip (see link). Some stuff might have changed since then though not too much I guess.

Good luck!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=317024#top

In reply to Elsier:
I've been to the Gredos three times. A lot of walking, a little rock and one week on the ice (which is v good if the weather is right). Stunning scenery, devoid of almost everyone but locals. fab place - summer or winter.

The Victory hut is good but basic and (when I've been there) wardened by a crazy Spanish guy and his g'friend. Quite a long walk in from the South and pretty remote but perfect for a multitude of routes.

Mainly trad with bolted belays. I've only had time to do one classic which seemed to be typical (and mega cool by my pitiful standard). La Aguja Negra (the black needle)is brilliantly photo'd here:
http://msalvads.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/oeste-clasica-280m-v-la-aguja-negra....

The most and well equipped and popular hut is at the Circ de Gredos. For winter that is probably the place to be and normally wardened all year round.

Oh.. and the rock feels like a combination of Peak Grit and N Wales granite

Enjoy

In reply to Elsier:

Sierra de Gredos are stunning. I went in March, and it was possible to do winter stuff in the Circo de Gredos on the north side of the range - Almanzor etc (wall to wall neve, no ice to speak of when we went) - and then nip round to Los Galayos on the south side and climb dry rock in the sun. OK it was freezing in the shade and snowy in the gullies between the spires, but great rock climbing. Both sides were deserted mid week.

I imagine it gets hot and busy in summer.

In reply to Elsier:


Yeah, quite a few times


This will need a bit of logitics, prefarably a car. You can get to Gredos by public transport from Madrid, but Picos is a bit complicated.


Depends on your goals.

Gredos is known for its ice climbing (https://www.google.fr/search?q=sierra+de+gredos+escalada+hielo&biw=1366...

Picos is known for ski touring.

So, if winter activities is what you are looking for, March is usually the best period.

If you are thinking rock climbing, then anywhere between late May (snow can be still present in Picos in June/July) - late October. Avoiding August and late July is always a good idea in Spain, especially Gredos.


Which book do you have? I can translate some bits for you if I have the same one. Or let me know which info you need.


It's wardened whole time in summer months (I guess July-September) and weekends outside these months. They have a place to sleep permanently open, but amenities are very basic, no toilet, I am not sure about stove. You can see photos here: http://www.grupogredos.com/refugio.html Most of the people on weekends sleep outside anyways, as it's impossible to get a place inside - I am guessing outside of weekends shouldn't be too bad, but it's so small that I don't know if it houses more than 10 people. And there are no beds... If not raining, a lot better to bivvy outside within 200m from the hut.


1. If you are in the Madrid area and feel like you need some slab smearing practice, look at La Pedriza with its immaculate granite slabs that are world-class. Easily reachable in an hour from Madrid by bus, or with a nice hut inside the park.

2. Highlight of Gredos climbing is obviously Los Galayos, but you probably know that. The climbing there is normally all trad, no belay stations on majority of the routes.

3. Gredos has another hut, way better when it comes to amenities, food, toilets, shower etc - called Refugio Elola. It's in the co called Circo de Gredos - it's an area of climbing as well, and you should consider this hut if you want to go ice climbing in winter - as the majority of the ice forms in this valley. This has a lot more places, but the valley is a lot more popular as well - so booking is needed. You get a discount on reciprocal rights if you're part of member federations such as OEAV, SAC etc

4. In Picos you will obviously want to climb Naranjo, you may find other ideas on this page: http://www.picoseuropa.net/escal.php

Let me know if you need more
Cheers
RS

In reply to RockShock:

Thanks everyone for all the info (and links to blogs and photos etc) looks like an amazing place to climb, and the info was all really useful.

I'm thinking of a trad climbing road trip hiring a car, so the transport shouldn't be a problem. I've got up to two weeks, and mostly want to climb some mountain trad. I was thinking about possibly May/ June time but wasn't sure if that would be a good time of year for Sierra de Gredos and the Picos. Sounds like the Picos might still be quite snowy in May.

I see what you mean about the hut, shouldn't be a problem to take bivvy stuff, but it does make it trickier for a longer trip into Los Galayos, as it looks like there's plenty of climbing there for 5 days or a week, but might be hard going carrying all food, climbing kit and bivvy kit for that long.

I've got the Desnivel guide, which has got pretty good topos so should be find for the actual climbing, it was the general info about the area, walk ins, info about the hut, what gear to take etc, which I wasn't sure about, and I think most of that has been answered above.

Thanks everyone!

In reply to Elsier:

The faces should be clear in the Picos in June, even if the approaches are still a bit snowy. The Picos is one of the great ranges of Europe. Utterly stunning, incredible rock, and some great routes - some quite big.

In reply to David Rose:

Agree Picos should be OK in late May with just a few pockets of snow here and there (neveros) You can drive down or ferry to Santander from Portsmouth. Alternatively fly Easyjet to Oviedo hire a car and you should be able to get to Picos in an hour. It should be a 6/7 hour drive from there to Gredos. Picos has quite a few refuges.