UKC

Status of project right of Consomme at The Cuttings, Portland

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 lewiz 05 Dec 2014

Does anybody know the status of the route between Consomme and Haute Cusine at The Cuttings? I'm the latest Rockfax it is listed as a project. I'm wondering whether this is an open project and if anybody has any idea of how hard it might be or the quality of the line.

Thanks!
Post edited at 19:41
In reply to lewiz:

You want to speak to Marti Hallet, it's his project. Marti_999 on here.
 Marti999 Global Crag Moderator 06 Dec 2014
In reply to lewiz:

Yes its my project and no it's not open.
OP lewiz 07 Dec 2014
In reply to Marti999:
Thanks for the info guys, it looks like an interesting line

Marti... do you know what grade it might be when it goes? Totally understand if you don't want to comment right now, just me being nosey.

Edit: also, did we happen to meet at The Cuttings last Sunday?
Post edited at 18:11
 3 Names 07 Dec 2014
In reply to Marti999:

How long do you think it's reasonable to keep it closed?

 steve taylor 07 Dec 2014
In reply to 3 Names:

> How long do you think it's reasonable to keep it closed?

A minimum of 10 years I reckon

Having been the victim of a nicked project, I feel I'm in a position to comment!
 Michael Hood 07 Dec 2014
In reply to 3 Names:
As a complete outsider to these things I would consider it reasonable as long as Marti is still making reasonable efforts trying to do it, but then again what does that mean?

This would be different in every case, would depend on several factors and is partly dependent on the likely grade and what Marti's redpoint grade is. If it's going to be 8c and Marti's grade is 7b, then I would say that unless Marti is rapidly improving his grade, it would not be reasonable to keep it closed as it would take several years for Marti to have any chance. However if Marti was already doing 8b and was intending to do loads of specific training over the winter to try and achieve the route next year then it would be reasonable to keep it closed.

Between those two there is no doubt a huge grey area but I would say that if Marti has a reasonable chance of doing it next season (i.e. before next winter) then it's reasonable for it to be closed.

There is a tactic that has been used elsewhere where people have climbed most of a route but purposely grabbed a quick-draw to invalidate their ascent and leave the first ascent there for the "owner" of the line. I think this has usually been done with the "owner".
Post edited at 19:32
 Marti999 Global Crag Moderator 07 Dec 2014
In reply to lewiz:

To answer all, having a time scale to do a sports route is a bit pointless as to repay the time and effort to bolt a line is harder than just pay for the steel and glue. The blanks are there for anyone to take, not just wait for someone to do the hard work for them. But saying that i sure some have climbed this line either on a top rope or maybe lead grabbing draws or not.
It only about 7b just near the limit of me reach and need the right conditions to hold the holds. think i need to take Mick advise and go to the cutting on a summers evening.
I'm board of this tread now.
Cheers for all your interest, i'll get to it soon.
OP lewiz 10 Dec 2014
In reply to Marti999:

Cheers for letting me know. Sounds similar in style to haute cuisine then. Wait for the good conditions and go get it!

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